Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Paging DGOBS or anyone familiar with Hive Install

  • 07-06-2018 11:26am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭


    I picked up a Hive System with Multizone on the last day of their 20% off sale on Sunday. No install for a total of €254.

    PLtDU9Ll.jpg

    The System is a Baxi Megaflow 28HE IE Gas Boiler, 3x Myson Zone Valves for Hot Water, Upstairs Central Heating Zone and Downstairs Central Heating Zone. The Hot Water Cylinder has a Myson Cylinder Thermostat. The Controller is a now faulty Sunvic 307XLS.

    EILy6Bvl.jpg

    Rather than spend €100 for a replacement Sunvic 307 (Notorious for Timer Faults apparently) I decided that now was the right time to upgrade to something like the Hive System.

    I can see from the Sunvic 307 wiring diagram printed on the back of the unit and the wiring diagram for the Hive HW/CH Dual Channel Receiver that the backplate is compatible with the HIve Dual Channel Receiver.

    Theres some bridging wires between some connection points on the current backplate for the Sunvic 307. Do I need to remove any of these bridging cables before I swap over to the Hive Dual Channel Receiver?

    The HW/CH Thermostat/Controller will be mounted in the Kitchen so I will obviously leave the Downstairs Heating Zone On/Off cables connected to the Dual Channel Receiver Backplate and only move the Upstairs Zone On/Off cables to the Hive Multizone Single Channel Receiver. However, which cables to I need to bridge across from the Dual Channel Receiver to the Single Channel Receiver? Upstairs Heating Zone Hive Thermostat/Controller will be mounted on the Landing beside these Hive Receiver boxes.


Comments

  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Ok, so will go like this, assuming your electrically competent to carry this out:

    Plug in your Hive Hub to power and LAN connection on your internet router. Leave to download (may take about 15-20 mins), you will know it's complete when you have a solid green light and a flashing amber light.


    Safely isolate the system electrically (and prove isolation) before starting work

    Remove original Sunvic 307, and identify the 3 switch wires to, hot water, zone 1 and zone 2 (you will find small wire labels for these cables in the installation manual in one of the Hive Stat boxes)

    Also identify the Live, Neutral and Earth cables with the appropriate labels.
    Once done remove all wires from the old back plate, and discard all the 'loops' (keep one for later)
    Mount the back plates for both receivers (you have one dual channel and 1 single channel)

    Wire up the Live, Neutral and Earth cables to the dual receiver and loop them to Live, Neutral and Earth on the single receiver.

    On the dual receiver, wire your 'Hot Water' cable to number 3, and your zone 1 (downstairs) to number 4
    On the single receiver, wire your zone 2 to number 3, and use the loop you retained to loop between Live and Number 1 (you dont need to do this on the dual receiver, only on the single one)

    Fit and fix the receiver boxes to the relevant back plates, and check that your Hive Hub now has a slid green light and a flashing amber light and your ready to power back up you receivers.

    Loop out all existing room thermostats (Common to NO) so they are no longer controlling the system temperatures, leave the cylinder thermostat in play.

    When you power them up, initially they will double flash amber, this is now looking for the HUB, when the change to a single flash amber, they have found the hub and are ready for the next step.

    Once they both are single flash amber, put the batteries into one of the Hive Stats, it will boot up and search for the receivers, when it pairs up, one of the receivers will change from single flash amber to green, lets say its the single receiver that does, the thermostat will walk you through how to use it, then it's ready, so that would be your upstairs stat (again, assuming it was the single channel receiver that turned green)

    Once thats done, put the batteries into the second thermostat, and wait for the other receiver to turn green and pair up, now this would be your downstairs stat and hot water controller.

    Lastly, login to your hive app and register yourself, follow the in app instructions, and select that your installing a hub, it will ask for the Hub ID (on the bottom of your hub) enter this ID and away you go....enjoy!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Calibos


    You Legend Sir! :D

    Not taking any chances and will find the correct ECB/s for Boiler, Cylinder and Valves tomorrow morning before commencing the work.

    No existing wired room thermostats. Just dumb TRV's on all the rads except the bathrooms. Given one of the Hive Thermostat/Controllers will be in the Kitchen and one on the upstairs landing, I gather in those two locations I need to remove the TRV's from the rads. Do I set all the other TRV's to #5 (full On) and let the Hive thermostats take full control of house temp?

    So 'loop out existing room thermostats Common to NO' doesn't apply to me?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,975 ✭✭✭jimf


    calibos

    you do realise the rest of us have to live with him now after you calling him sir and a legend


    only joking a good man to help out when the need arise


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    If you have no room thermostat, just ignore that line (NO = Normally open contact)
    Yes remove the TRV's in the area where the Stats will be located, set all other TRVs as you wish.
    I wouldn't recommend placing a stat in the kitchen, as you will have alternative heat sources such as cooking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Calibos


    DGOBS wrote: »
    If you have no room thermostat, just ignore that line (NO = Normally open contact)
    Yes remove the TRV's in the area where the Stats will be located, set all other TRVs as you wish.
    I wouldn't recommend placing a stat in the kitchen, as you will have alternative heat sources such as cooking.

    All Done!! :D

    Only slight issue was that the Dual Receiver stayed Single Flash Amber when it was time to pair its Thermostat/Controller. Upstairs Heating Zone Single Channel Receiver was the first to pair as anticipated in your post. I read the manual and it said to press the pairing button on the Hub till the middle LED flashed Amber and then reinserted the batteries in the second Thermostat/Controller and it paired immediately. Then pressed the Hub pairing button again to take it back out of pairing mode. Both receivers now have solid green LED.

    Registered the Hub on the website.

    Skipped the setup on the Thermostats/Controllers.

    Hot Water came on straight away, the HW Myson Zone Valve activated and the Boiler fired up. Dunno if I accidentally pressed the HW Boost button on the Downstairs Dual Thermostat or if the Cylinder Thermostat told the Hive to turn on the Hot water. Hot Water has been off since yesterday evening when I took the Sunvic off the backplate to look at the wiring. When I went to put the sunvic back on the backplate the screen remained blank and the HW and both Heating Zones relays clicked and came on. Couldn't switch them back off as the Sunvic controls weren't working. Stayed on even when I removed the sunvic from the backplate again. Started to get worried then but putting it back on and wiggling it seemed to work as the relays clicked again and the HW and Zones switched back off. Left the sunvic off the backplate and securely covered the backplate to prevent anyone touching the terminals. Long Story Short, the HW Cylinder would have cooled over the last 18 hours, so I am assuming thats the likely reason the HW came on straight away when I got the Hive system up and running this afternoon.

    Family of 6 adults in this house so there is a lot of Hot Water demand. I am assuming I should leave the HW turned on permanently and just let the Cylinder Thermostat switch the HW zone on and off as required. Is there any specific menu or physical button settings/presses I need to make to make that happen?

    I can get the Boiler serviced now. If the Service Engineer asks when or who installed the Hive, do I inform him I wired it up myself or tell him I hired a plumber or electrician? ie. Will I get myself in trouble or lose warranty on service etc etc if Bord Gais know I bought and self installed the Hive system??

    Thanks again for your fantastic comprehensive answer DGOB's. Saved me a literal Ton. Hive+Multizone for €254! Woohoo!! :D


  • Advertisement
  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Your Warranty is with Hive, not Bord Gais.
    You did not carry out any gas works, so there should not be any issue with you self installing a Hive.

    As for Hot Water, really usage up to yourself, if you have a big demand, then just set it to manual/on, and as you say let the thermostat do it's thing, but make sure you have s modern insulated cylinder, if not it will cool pretty quickly! or can just time it around when people use the water.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,816 ✭✭✭Calibos


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Your Warranty is with Hive, not Bord Gais.
    You did not carry out any gas works, so there should not be any issue with you self installing a Hive.

    As for Hot Water, really usage up to yourself, if you have a big demand, then just set it to manual/on, and as you say let the thermostat do it's thing, but make sure you have s modern insulated cylinder, if not it will cool pretty quickly! or can just time it around when people use the water.

    Yes. I have a modern foam insulated cylinder of 2010 Vintage.

    I set a 7 day schedule for the Hot Water to come on at 6:30am and go off at 11:45pm. I'm presuming that the Cylinder Thermostat will switch the Boiler off when the cylinder is at the set temperature within that period.


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Yes it will.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 269 ✭✭Loadedscream


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Ok, so will go like this, assuming your electrically competent to carry this out:

    Plug in your Hive Hub to power and LAN connection on your internet router. Leave to download (may take about 15-20 mins), you will know it's complete when you have a solid green light and a flashing amber light.


    Safely isolate the system electrically (and prove isolation) before starting work

    Remove original Sunvic 307, and identify the 3 switch wires to, hot water, zone 1 and zone 2 (you will find small wire labels for these cables in the installation manual in one of the Hive Stat boxes)

    Also identify the Live, Neutral and Earth cables with the appropriate labels.
    Once done remove all wires from the old back plate, and discard all the 'loops' (keep one for later)
    Mount the back plates for both receivers (you have one dual channel and 1 single channel)

    Wire up the Live, Neutral and Earth cables to the dual receiver and loop them to Live, Neutral and Earth on the single receiver.

    On the dual receiver, wire your 'Hot Water' cable to number 3, and your zone 1 (downstairs) to number 4
    On the single receiver, wire your zone 2 to number 3, and use the loop you retained to loop between Live and Number 1 (you dont need to do this on the dual receiver, only on the single one)

    Fit and fix the receiver boxes to the relevant back plates, and check that your Hive Hub now has a slid green light and a flashing amber light and your ready to power back up you receivers.

    Loop out all existing room thermostats (Common to NO) so they are no longer controlling the system temperatures, leave the cylinder thermostat in play.

    When you power them up, initially they will double flash amber, this is now looking for the HUB, when the change to a single flash amber, they have found the hub and are ready for the next step.

    Once they both are single flash amber, put the batteries into one of the Hive Stats, it will boot up and search for the receivers, when it pairs up, one of the receivers will change from single flash amber to green, lets say its the single receiver that does, the thermostat will walk you through how to use it, then it's ready, so that would be your upstairs stat (again, assuming it was the single channel receiver that turned green)

    Once thats done, put the batteries into the second thermostat, and wait for the other receiver to turn green and pair up, now this would be your downstairs stat and hot water controller.

    Lastly, login to your hive app and register yourself, follow the in app instructions, and select that your installing a hub, it will ask for the Hub ID (on the bottom of your hub) enter this ID and away you go....enjoy!

    DGOBS - sorry to piggy back on some of your old advice. I recently bought a Hive multizone and am planning to self install later this week. Attached are some photos of the current timer wiring (a three channel ES3247). Am i correct in my understanding that the instructions above translate directly? i.e.

    Wire up the Live, Neutral and Earth cables to the dual receiver and loop them to Live, Neutral and Earth on the single receiver.

    On the dual receiver, wire your 'Hot Water' cable to number 3, and your zone 1 (downstairs) to number 4
    On the single receiver, wire your zone 2 to number 3, and use the loop you retained to loop between Live and Number 1 (you dont need to do this on the dual receiver, only on the single one)


    I have wired thermostats in the hall and upstairs, i assume i can just turn these up full for the time being and loop them out at the wall in due course?

    Thanks
    Gary


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Pretty much the same, yes.


  • Advertisement
Advertisement