2011 Toyota Avensis diesel, alternator voltage

John.G

Taxi Owner next door asked me to check alternator voltage as he thought the starter was a bit sluggish recently.
Engine idling with no electrical load: 12.75V to 12.9V
Engine 2000 RPM with no electrical load: 12.80V to 12.9V
Engine idling with Dipped Beams+heated rear screen: 12.65V to 12.85V
Engine 2000 RPM with Dipped Beams+heated rear screen: 12.75V to 12.90V.
The alternator, he told me was "reconditioned" 6 months ago.
I then checked the battery (1.5 year old) voltage after car was idle overnight and got 12.4V which roughly speaking is ~~ 65 to 70% SOC according to a little chart I have.
The independent garage told him that that is quite normal, but I,ve always got 14.1V to 14.3V on all the VWs that I have owned and the batteries have all lasted a minimum of 10 years

I would have expected a minimum of 13.5V to 14.0V, any comments would be much appreciated.

jca

Alternator is brown bread or a burned connection. Horrible horrible job without a lift, run Forrest run, leave it for your local indie ( if he’ll do it)

John.G

jca wrote: »

Alternator is brown bread or a burned connection. Horrible horrible job without a lift, run Forrest run, leave it for your local indie ( if he’ll do it)

I know that Mercedes and BMW have a so called smart charging system which varies the charging voltage and is designed to improve economy but I have seen numerous complaints from owners complaining that their batteries are only "1/2" charged and frequently if the car hasnt been used for a few days then they wont start the car.

I wonder do Toyota use this technology?

jca

John.G wrote: »

I know that Mercedes and BMW have a so called smart charging system which varies the charging voltage and is designed to improve economy but I have seen numerous complaints from owners complaining that their batteries are only "1/2" charged and frequently if the car hasnt been used for a few days then they wont start the car.

I wonder do Toyota use this technology?

No they don't, certainly not in a 2011 car.

John.G

jca wrote: »

No they don't, certainly not in a 2011 car.

Thanks, the Alternator pulley was all that was renewed, he just told me a few minutes ago.

John.G

jca wrote: »

Alternator is brown bread or a burned connection. Horrible horrible job without a lift, run Forrest run, leave it for your local indie ( if he’ll do it)

Checked it again last Monday, battery voltage was 12.4V/12.5V after it was idle for over 2 days and I am getting the exact same charging readings as before, the battery doesnt seem to be losing any further charge so he said he'll motor on.

John.G

John.G wrote: »

Checked it again last Monday, battery voltage was 12.4V/12.5V after it was idle for over 2 days and I am getting the exact same charging readings as before, the battery doesnt seem to be losing any further charge so he said he'll motor on.

Ditto as above last Monday, car was idle from Saturday to Monday and started up, no problem.
Will battery eventually die or have a shortened life?.

CJhaughey

John.G wrote: »

Ditto as above last Monday, car was idle from Saturday to Monday and started up, no problem.
Will battery eventually die or have a shortened life?.

Chronic undercharging will kill a battery quickly, maybe not right now, but some cold winter morning it will fail to start.

John.G

CJhaughey wrote: »

Chronic undercharging will kill a battery quickly, maybe not right now, but some cold winter morning it will fail to start.

I finally convinced him re above so he got his mechanic to replace his alternator with a used one, €80 supplied & fitted, now charging at 14.2V.

Nekarsulm

Good price, considering having to pull the front hub out off the wishbone, and take off the drive shaft carrier bearingbefore even getting the alternator wiggled out of position.
Hopefully the s/h one he fitted dosent die in a few weeks...