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is it easy to handle kingspan K7 for attic insulation?

  • 12-05-2018 10:44am
    #1
    Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 60 ✭✭


    Hi,

    I wanted to replace the earthwool between joists with K7. Is it easy to do or maybe it's too difficult to cut?

    Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,184 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Why specifically?


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 60 ✭✭Markus9


    because it's old and I have to refurbish it, so I was thinking of a different solution


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,184 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Very expensive solution tbh. How old is it ? Why does it need to be replaced why not just top it up you don't generally remove it for toping up


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,232 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    K7 is for pitched roofs. K3 is for floors, but over rather than between. AFAIK phenolic is specified when you are trying to preserve headroom. Fitting boards between joists is going to be a PITA and you'll need to fill the gaps, whereas earthwool fits properly without faffing.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 60 ✭✭Markus9


    Then I'll opt for sheep wool, thanks!


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,232 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Markus9 wrote: »
    Then I'll opt for sheep wool, thanks!
    Yeah, that's what I thought until I got a price for it!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,155 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    Markus9 wrote: »
    Hi,

    I wanted to replace the earthwool between joists with K7. Is it easy to do or maybe it's too difficult to cut?

    Thanks
    why not supplement what is there with cellulose
    eg
    https://www.ecologicalbuildingsystems.com/Ireland/Products/Product-Detail/Cellulose-Insulation

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 60 ✭✭Markus9



    This looks interesting, thanks!

    I know that sheep wool is expensive but the attic is small and I don't like the fact that I need to wear a mask to handle earthwool, that's not a good sign...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,232 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    Markus9 wrote: »
    This looks interesting, thanks!

    I know that sheep wool is expensive but the attic is small and I don't like the fact that I need to wear a mask to handle earthwool, that's not a good sign...

    You also have to wear a mask with cellulose.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,184 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Markus9 wrote: »
    This looks interesting, thanks!

    I know that sheep wool is expensive but the attic is small and I don't like the fact that I need to wear a mask to handle earthwool, that's not a good sign...

    The mask youd have to wear anyway regardless of what you buy because your attic will be full of dust, Its not a nice place to work in.

    Ive recently put earthwool in mine 56 bales of it (big attic double layer) and it is easy to work with didnt even need gloves tbh. But wore a mask for the dust.

    Earthwool was very easy to work with. The Fibreglassesque stuff that was under it still had its horrible itchy nonsense after 3 decades. Thats stuff is horrible.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,155 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    The proper way to do this is, at the eves to use a ventilation baffle
    eg
    http://www.contractortechproducts.com/durovent_baffle.html

    The only way it can be done properly, IMO, is to strip off the first meter of slates and felt, fit the ventilation baffles, replace felt and slates, sleeve all power cables for air cooling and then blow cellulose in to fill all nooks and crannies.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,184 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    The proper way to do this is, at the eves to use a ventilation baffle
    eg
    http://www.contractortechproducts.com/durovent_baffle.html

    The only way it can be done properly, IMO, is to strip off the first meter of slates and felt, fit the ventilation baffles, replace felt and slates, sleeve all power cables for air cooling and then blow cellulose in to fill all nooks and crannies.

    Hes working between the joists ... Not the roof trusses


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 60 ✭✭Markus9


    listermint wrote: »
    Markus9 wrote: »
    This looks interesting, thanks!

    I know that sheep wool is expensive but the attic is small and I don't like the fact that I need to wear a mask to handle earthwool, that's not a good sign...

    The mask youd have to wear anyway regardless of what you buy because your attic will be full of dust, Its not a nice place to work in.

    Ive recently put earthwool in mine 56 bales of it (big attic double layer) and it is easy to work with didnt even need gloves tbh. But wore a mask for the dust.

    Earthwool was very easy to work with. The Fibreglassesque stuff that was under it still had its horrible itchy nonsense after 3 decades. Thats stuff is horrible.
    Ok so, would you suggest to keep that **** there? Because I have the yellow itchy fibreglass there at the moment. Better to remove it or leave it there and topup with earthwool or sheep wool?
    Thanks for the help


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,184 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Markus9 wrote: »
    Ok so, would you suggest to keep that **** there? Because I have the yellow itchy fibreglass there at the moment. Better to remove it or leave it there and topup with earthwool or sheep wool?
    Thanks for the help

    Leave it where it is.and top it up.

    It's the common method.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,232 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I removed a skip-load of the yellow stuff last week. Nasty job but only took an hour or so. You can get cheap protective gear from builders merchants.

    I'll be replacing with earthwool, after I can summon the energy to go back up with a vacuum cleaner and tidy up.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,465 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    I topped up an attic with the recycled plastic bottle rolls from B&Q (usually 2 for 1 during summer sales!)
    It's easy to use, easy to cut, doesn't itch or irritate and doesn't burn.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,155 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    listermint wrote: »
    Hes working between the joists ... Not the roof trusses


    Have a closer look at the diagram please.

    For the hard of hearing, the purpose of the baffle is to deflect the air from the soffit board up beyond the CEILNG insulation and stop it passing through the CEILING insulation, leading in many cases to mould along the edge of the ceiling.
    See image

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,465 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    Have a closer look at the diagram please.

    For the hard of hearing, the purpose of the baffle is to deflect the air from the soffit board up beyond the CEILNG insulation and stop it passing through the CEILING insulation, leading in many cases to mould along the edge of the ceiling.
    See image

    Is it not to allow the attic space to breathe?:confused:


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 60 ✭✭Markus9


    thanks everyone for taking the time to give your advice :)


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 60 ✭✭Markus9


    is isover like earthwool or is it nasty as well?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,155 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    GreeBo wrote: »
    Is it not to allow the attic space to breathe?:confused:

    More to control the airflow that is implicit in any house that has ventilated soffit boards or similar
    http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/articles/dept/musings/site-built-ventilation-baffles-roofs

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,184 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Have a closer look at the diagram please.

    For the hard of hearing, the purpose of the baffle is to deflect the air from the soffit board up beyond the CEILNG insulation and stop it passing through the CEILING insulation, leading in many cases to mould along the edge of the ceiling.
    See image

    For the hard of reading no one asked about ventilation channels into the soffits.

    At all.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 27,465 ✭✭✭✭GreeBo


    More to control the airflow that is implicit in any house that has ventilated soffit boards or similar
    http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/articles/dept/musings/site-built-ventilation-baffles-roofs

    Yeah, ventilation of the attic, like I said?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,232 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    I think BryanF suggested terminating with membrane wrapped batts to achieve the same effect with batt insulation as vent baffles do with loose fill, i.e. controlled ventilation of the rafters without blowing cold air through the joist insulation.

    edit: apparently not


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Don’t think I did..


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,232 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    BryanF wrote: »
    Don’t think I did..

    Sorry, I must have misremembered. I'm not sure where I read the suggestion, maybe it was this:

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=61462922&postcount=10
    sinnerboy wrote: »
    Haven't done this - but you could make "sausage rolls" 300mm diameter made up of Tyvek wrapped around rockwool . And squeeze between the joist into the attic floor cavity over the wall plate .

    Firestop , windcheat + thermal continuity


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,718 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    Lumen wrote: »
    Sorry, I must have misremembered. I'm not sure where I read the suggestion, maybe it was this:

    https://www.boards.ie/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=61462922&postcount=10
    That's a quote from a completely different poster and was obviously posted a long time ago in a completely different thread. I'm not sure why you would do this.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,232 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    muffler wrote: »
    That's a quote from a completely different poster and was obviously posted a long time ago in a completely different thread. I'm not sure why you would do this.
    Because it's related to the same issue, detailing of insulation at edge of the attic.

    I am not sure why you find it objectionable. :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 46,718 ✭✭✭✭muffler


    Lumen wrote: »
    Because it's related to the same issue, detailing of insulation at edge of the attic.

    I am not sure why you find it objectionable. :)
    Well first of all you misquoted another poster or at least indicated he said something that he hadnt. Then you bring a post from somewhere else which really isnt the thing to do on boards given the fact that (a) the quoted poster is no longer here, (b) the post you quoted is obviously from years ago and (c) this type and level of detailing has changed over the years and in order to comply with Part L of the building regs it would be necessary to provide up to date solutions.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 31,232 ✭✭✭✭Lumen


    It's a discussion forum. If you have better advice, post it.


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