options when replacing a copper cylinder

tippgod

Hi All
I have an old in-direct  un-insulated copper cylinder and living in a semi detached two story house i am thinking of changing it but just looking at my options. Easiest option  is just to get an insulated cylinder 
BUT 
i was thinking of getting an under sink water heater (Ariston 3Kw) to supply the kitchen sink . My only problem is what to do upstairs. I was thinking of removing the cylinder , installing a radiator in the hot press and some sort of inline heater for the rare time we use the bath and the upstairs hot water tap in the sink. Is this a good option. 
Just looking for peoples opinions or solutions they came across.

Dardania

What problem are you trying to solve? Slow time until the hot water comes out of the kitchen tap? Spending a lot of money heating water?

tippgod

Dardania wrote: »

What problem are you trying to solve? Slow time until the hot water comes out of the kitchen tap? Spending a lot of money heating water?

my main problem is there is very weak water pressure in the hot tap down stairs in the kitchen. i bought the house a year ago  (house built in 1985)  and the copper cylinder looks old  so i was just going to replace it with a new insulated one. 

i did not think that , that would fix my water pressure problem down stairs so i started researching other solutions.

tippgod

i was also looking at this option where u put a single shower pump onto a cylinder
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9L8OFEsXGnM

Dardania

To address your specific problem, a pump is the typical modern solution.
You could fit a double pump (which pumps both hot & cold supplies) if you ever want to redo the bathroom and fit a power shower in future - would address both the current problem and a future problem too.
Using electricity to heat water is quite inefficient compared to gas or oil (factor of 2 or 3 to 1, comparing the performance), particualrly if you had an insulated cyclinder.
You can retrofit a thick (e.g. 80mm) lagging jacket to the existing cylinder and put insulation on the pipework from it, if you want to save some money. You could also look at heating controls longer term.

tippgod

ok, so im bettor off going with a pumped solution attached to the cylinder. Aree Salamander pumps anu good or should i avoid them. Will just buy a new insulated clynder and fit both at the same time. Thanks Dardania

my3cents

OP this may sound daft but what I'd do first as this is the kitchen is connect the cold water tap to the hot water tap and turn them both on.

The idea being to "prime" the hot water pipe with water and get rid of any airlock there might be.

May change nothing but worth a try. I've used to do this at our last house every so often as we'd get an air lock and no hot water at all. With taps that were difficult to get an attachment to I used to use a cut length of old bicycle inner tube held over each tap with a second person turning them on carefully.

tippgod

my3cents wrote: »

OP this may sound daft but what I'd do first as this is the kitchen is connect the cold water tap to the hot water tap and turn them both on.

The idea being to "prime" the hot water pipe with water and get rid of any airlock there might be.

May change nothing but worth a try. I've used to do this at our last house every so often as we'd get an air lock and no hot water at all. With taps that were difficult to get an attachment to I used to use a cut length of old bicycle inner tube held over each tap with a second person turning them on carefully.

I understand exactly. my problem is i have a mixer tap. How would i go about doing the "prime"?

i also swapped hot/cold but still the hot water just piddled out

Sleeper12

tippgod wrote:

I understand exactly. my problem is i have a mixer tap. How would i go about doing the "prime"?

With your hand tight under the spout turn hot and cold on. This will push mains water into the hot pipe and up into the attic tank getting rid of any air

tippgod

I have a small cylinder . 30” x 18”. I think it has two coils . It has 6 pipes going into it. I traced them back as much I could and have come to the conclusion that it’s a two coil.
When I turn on the central heating two of the pipes get hot. I’m guessing the other two are from an old back boiler?. Would this be correct?

Do I need to get a new two coil cylinder or can I just disconnect the back boiler pipes. I know the back boiler is removed and the whole fireplace was removed and blocked up

my3cents

tippgod wrote: »

I have a small cylinder . 30” x 18”. I think it has two coils . It has 6 pipes going into it. I traced them back as much I could and have come to the conclusion that it’s a two coil.
When I turn on the central heating two of the pipes get hot. I’m guessing the other two are from an old back boiler?. Would this be correct?

Do I need to get a new two coil cylinder or can I just disconnect the back boiler pipes. I know the back boiler is removed and the whole fireplace was removed and blocked up

A plumber may be able to answer this better but I think if you went for a cylinder with two coils then you might find one with the connections in almost of not the exact same locations and that may make installation easier.

From what you say you don't need two coils only the one.