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Silver snot Arcing to my cylinder

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  • 13-04-2018 7:01am
    #1
    magnethead
    Registered Users Posts: 429 ✭✭


    Hi,
    My trip switch just started blowing, and I found this snot on the immersion element (see left pic)...I tried to clean it best I could and it's still arcing and tripping the switch.
    It looks like a big blob of soldar, but where could it have come from, there was no work being done on the cylinder at all!
    By the way the resistance valves for the elements are perfect, abotu 25 ohms on that one.

    I can't imagine covering the end in hot glue would do any good, is there any product I could cover it in to insulate it??

    Immersion.jpg?raw=1


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    #2
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,231 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    NOD NOTE: Moved from Plumbing and Heating

    Wearb

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



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    #3
    brightspark
    Registered Users Posts: 2,637 ✭✭✭brightspark


    You need to replace the immersion heater


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    #4
    magnethead
    Registered Users Posts: 429 ✭✭magnethead


    I need to replace the immersion elements? Why, is that snot being generated from the guts of the element? Have you seen such a disease before? :)


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    #5
    brightspark
    Registered Users Posts: 2,637 ✭✭✭brightspark


    magnethead wrote: »
    I need to replace the immersion elements? Why, is that snot being generated from the guts of the element? Have you seen such a disease before? :)

    Never noticed, but I don't do much domestic work.

    However...

    I'm guessing it's your RCD tripping when you power up.

    Regardless of why your element has failed it will need to be replaced, they aren't something you can fix with a bit of insulation.

    Have you a megger to check the insulation resistance?

    There is a small possibility that you have a fault in the cable supplying the immersion, again only by testing with a megger can you be sure.


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    #6
    2011
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators, Technology & Internet Moderators, Regional East Moderators Posts: 12,540 Mod ✭✭✭✭2011


    magnethead wrote: »
    I need to replace the immersion elements?

    If it was mine I certainly would.
    Why, is that snot being generated from the guts of the element?

    Soft solder typically has a melting point range of 90 to 450 °C so if solder has melted within the termination enclosure something has gone wrong.

    The second indication that something is not right is that the MCB is tripping. Most likely these issues are related. Consider the MCB a safety device that keeps operating, and take this as a warning that something is wrong. Ignoring this is risky.

    Immersions are not considered serviceable units, when they fail or develop issues they should be replaced.
    Have you seen such a disease before? :)

    I have seen the aftermath of more than one serious electrical fire.


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    #7
    magnethead
    Registered Users Posts: 429 ✭✭magnethead


    ok fair enough, I'll have a go at sticking in a new element, as it will be needed for the kids baths once the summer starts, as the CH will be off hopefully soon enough.

    Thanks guys


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    #8
    brightspark
    Registered Users Posts: 2,637 ✭✭✭brightspark


    magnethead wrote: »
    ok fair enough, I'll have a go at sticking in a new element, as it will be needed for the kids baths once the summer starts, as the CH will be off hopefully soon enough.

    Thanks guys

    Unless you have good plumbing skills don't bother attempting it. Very easy to damage your cylinder and end up with an even bigger job. (it might happen anyway).

    Some electricians won't remove/fit the immersion, and I think a lot of plumbers won't do the electrical part (there are exceptions), I'm not sure if it needs to be a RECI electrician, someone else here might clarify that.

    An electrician would be able to tell you if there are any other issues with the wiring, something no one here can do remotely.


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    #9
    magnethead
    Registered Users Posts: 429 ✭✭magnethead


    I gave my electrician and plumber a call, the only guys who will actually turn up in the current climate, both go by the same name 'Youtube' :)

    Dropped into Chadwicks and picked up an element, one of the lads at work had the big wrench which was handy.

    1.jpg?raw=1

    Took it out after a bit of banging on the tool with a hammer, fairplay to the previous installer, no sealant, just the fibre washer was there.
    Filed off the top of the cylinder a bit, couldn't complete it perfectly, because I was too busy high five-ing myself for getting the element out.
    PRO TIP: TISSUE to the side was ready to catch the water if the mains was not properly turned off :)

    2.jpg?raw=1


    Old element iin perfect condition, no need to replace really

    3.jpg?raw=1


    Job Done in 30 minutes :)

    4.jpg?raw=1


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    #10
    brightspark
    Registered Users Posts: 2,637 ✭✭✭brightspark


    Is it working now?

    Nice split


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    #11
    magnethead
    Registered Users Posts: 429 ✭✭magnethead


    Haha ;p Yes, Tested it out 15 minutes after the install, Kids got their bath just in time....

    I do miss the bright arcing from the top of the element, It brought back childhood memories of the pyromaniac in me, when I used to loop small bits of copper wire in the end of the radio lead and stick it into my dinky cars, then plug it in and blow them up.


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    #12
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    With a split like that, it would indicate no working RCD on the circuit.


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    #13
    brightspark
    Registered Users Posts: 2,637 ✭✭✭brightspark


    Bruthal wrote: »
    With a split like that, it would indicate no working RCD on the circuit.

    The OP said "My trip switch just started blowing", sounds like it did it's job, but of course we can't be certain.


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    #14
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    brightspark wrote: »
    The OP said "My trip switch just started blowing", sounds like it did it's job, but of course we can't be certain.

    He also said arcing was seen at the element casing end.

    With a split like in this case, a properly working RCD should be tripping a very long time before the element conductor was completely exposed to the water.

    Any elements I seen as bad as here, had no RCD. Any with properly working RCDs, were tripping them long before the element casing was completely destroyed.

    If it does have an RCD on its circuit, Id be surprised if its working right. Maybe the tripswitch was the MCB.


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    #15
    Bruthal
    Closed Accounts Posts: 13,422 ✭✭✭✭Bruthal


    magnethead wrote: »
    PRO TIP: TISSUE to the side was ready to catch the water if the mains was not properly turned off :)

    I used to find syphoning the water down to a decent bit below the immersion flange helped with that, as sometimes the gate valve might not 100% close.


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    #16
    magnethead
    Registered Users Posts: 429 ✭✭magnethead


    ok, seems to be electrical people on here, so I did a bit of googling, RCD are the trip switches for homes (They sense a tiny current imbalance and shutoff immediately) .....MCD's are used in industry and have a Amp rating, they don't trip until the amp rating, long after you're dead holding onto that screwdriver, or stuck to the contactor with your tongue. That's how I believe it works if I have it right.

    Now to the hole I'm living in, It has some old and new combined, and the cowboy that built this not leave a straight wall!

    Can you review this panel to see if it's ligit please , ABB sounds like industrial stuff, but they probably make stuff for the domestic market too.

    Breaker_Panel.jpg?raw=1


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