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Oil burner problem

  • 26-03-2018 9:06am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭


    Hi.
    Just looking for advice on where to go next.
    The issue is my Riello RDB2 won’t cut out immediately when it’s supposed to. The time clock is shutting off the motorized valve which I’ve already replaced so that is not the cause. The burner keeps running for a minute or more and then eventually shuts down. It was stopping immediately.
    I’m fairly handy so would be happy to replace a component on the burner. I just wonder where should I look next?
    Thanks.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,975 ✭✭✭jimf


    sounds like the motorised valve

    nothing on the burner to cause this symptom


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    Already replaced the MV on downstairs zone. Other two MVs are responding to control panel also one was replaced a few years ago. No problem with burner starting on clock.
    Any idea as to the mechanics involved in the burner running on?


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Is the same thing happening on all zones or just on one zone.Do you have wall stats on a cylinder stat


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    Stats on walls upstairs and downstairs and cylinder stat for hot water.

    If it’s happening on other zones what would that indicate? I only noticed it in downstairs so far but can’t say for certain.
    Thanks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Id say it only happening on downstairs zone
    1/turn on boiler on downstairs zone for a minute
    2/then turn down downstairs wall stat to zero
    3/if boiler still runs for a min or two its a faulty motorised valve[sticking micro switch in valve]


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    Sorry to be a pain but I put a new MV on the zone on Saturday so I think that should be covered.

    If it’s happening elsewhere any ideas? I’ll check this tonight.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Sorry to be a pain but I put a new MV on the zone on Saturday so I think that should be covered.

    If it’s happening elsewhere any ideas? I’ll check this tonight.

    Thanks.

    Depending on the type..
    If it has two screws holding the actuator on I have seen over tightening causing the actuator to take a while to close.
    Otherwise it may be that the spindle in the valve is sticking.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    Valve seemed to be free enough I could turn it easily.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    Further experiments reveal-


    1. Boiler is not shutting down immediately on all three zones.
    2. Time to shut down varies- 45 seconds on downstairs; 3 minutes on upstairs; 2 minutes on hot water, but probably not a factor.



    Control panel is definitely shutting off all three MVs- I can hear and feel them working. This seems to me to rule out MVs completely, as all three cannot be faulty at once (and one is brand new).



    I'm guessing the stats are not a factor as once the control panel switches off the circuit they should not matter- is this correct?


    I'm convinced it's something at the burner/boiler end- solenoid, stat, photocell, control box?


    Any suggestions welcome.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,870 ✭✭✭✭Dtp1979


    Is there a pipe stat fitted for pump overrun wired arseways?


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    No changes to the wiring. There is a stat/control box beside the boiler with two copper wires running to the probes that take the temperature- could there be something failed there? How would that cause the boiler to keep running?


    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,975 ✭✭✭jimf


    nothing at the burner is causing this issue

    failure of the stat would cause completely different problems


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 951 ✭✭✭Tom44


    jimf wrote: »
    nothing at the burner is causing this issue

    failure of the stat would cause completely different problems
    Ah Jim, did I teach you nothing? Some boilers have frost stats that could be faulty or set wrong

    Personally I suspect that one of the other MVs has a faulty micro switch.
    OP is the boiler still hot when the clocks have been off for a few hours?
    Touch the coppor pipe at the top.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    Hi Tom.


    I've left the heating off since earlier- I'll check the boiler as you suggest later on and report back tomorrow.


    Thanks.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,382 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Give me a shout lads if you get stuck :pac::pac::pac:

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,975 ✭✭✭jimf


    Tom44 wrote: »
    Ah Jim, did I teach you nothing? Some boilers have frost stats that could be faulty or set wrong

    Personally I suspect that one of the other MVs has a faulty micro switch.
    OP is the boiler still hot when the clocks have been off for a few hours?
    Touch the coppor pipe at the top.

    agreed tom

    but the over run is too consistent to be frost stat related In my very very limited knowledge :P:P:P


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,975 ✭✭✭jimf


    Wearb wrote: »
    Give me a shout lads if you get stuck :pac::pac::pac:



    SHOUT

    as a mod your not allowed to be a smart arse its beyond your pay grade


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,382 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    jimf wrote: »
    SHOUT

    as a mod your not allowed to be a smart arse its beyond your pay grade

    Only joking Jim. You have all made the same stab at it as I would. I would only add that he needs to get a multimeter on it to see where the power is coming from.
    btw was dtp's question about pump over run answered?

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,975 ✭✭✭jimf


    agreed

    no dtp question wasn't answered but it would really have to be screwed up wiring wise but hey they are out there


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    OK, the boss came home and put the heating back on so I'll have to wait til morning to check pipe at boiler.

    Maybe I'm being paranoid now, but the pump seems to be running constantly with everything switched off, which I don't remember from before. Am I losing it or is this normal?


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    No,i dont think your getting paronoid.your getting a permanent live to the boiler
    If you turn up the stat on the boiler now to max will the burner fire with the time clock off?
    If so your in danger of damaging the circulating pump as it probably has no where to pump to


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    No, turned it up full but no firing.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Top of boiler was probably above 85 degrees so it wouldnt come on.leave the stat on lowest setting,if the circulating pump is running,id be turning off the circuit breaker for the heating at the fuse board when you dont need the heating on,until its resolved
    If it is a motorised valve issue,it could be any one of them.the switched live on the microswitches in them are all connected to each other


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    So I just checked boiler before anything is due to switch on. Pipe on top is very hot and pump is whirring away. Pump is hot too.
    System has just started up as normal.

    Tom you were on to something, what do you think is going on?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 117 ✭✭TECH85


    Is there any bypass or three port valve fitted on the circuit?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    Only the three MVs for the zones, which are two way open close.
    Can’t say about bypass- what would I be looking for?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,975 ✭✭✭jimf


    at a guess at this stage

    permanent live going to boiler

    when motorised valves shut off no circuit for water to circulate

    so boiler going over temp and shutting down on stat at boiler as it should

    stat probably not set high enough for hi limit stat to activate

    maybe all gobbly gook but my guess so tom is probably correct as usual


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    Made no changes to any settings so I’m confused as to why it’s started now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Definitely something wrong with external controls / wiring, either a frost stat / pipe stat, but something is not wired correctly and its throwing a live over to the boiler.
    Time to get a multimeter out.


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,590 ✭✭✭agusta


    Made no changes to any settings so I’m confused as to why it’s started now.
    motorised valves have two moving parts,the motor and the micro switch.they do break down.if you dont have a frost stat,it is a motorised valve


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    Thanks all.
    I’ll see if I can identify which of the MVs might be causing the problem.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 274 ✭✭Magilla Gorilla


    So, it was one of the other two MVs that was the problem, as correctly predicted by some on here.



    I disconnected them one at a time and checked to see if the pump was still running. Hot water MV made no difference, nor did downstairs MV (replaced on Saturday as this was the zone I initially noticed the issue on). With just upstairs MV still connected, the pump was still operating- it stopped when disconnected.


    I was able to switch off both of the "good" zones immediately as before from the control panel with upstairs MV out of the picture.


    I'll buy a new one at the weekend as I don't think it would be wise to put the (still working) 20-year old one back on.


    Thanks to all who contributed- I've learned a lot.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,975 ✭✭✭jimf


    glad you got sorted and well done they are known to cause this issue

    but its only guess work on our behalf that might point you in the right direction

    thanks for coming back and letting us know the outcome many don't once they have a fix


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