KIDD trigger install

scwazrh

I’ve just installed a Kidd two stage trigger to my 10/22 .the bolt is noticeably harder to pull back to cock after dry firing .Is this normal ?
I haven’t been to the range yet to shoot it so hoping that it will get easier after a few rounds through it .

Wadi14

I have a lot of Kidd parts but not a 2 stage trigger, But checking the US forums it seems to be pretty common, and does smooth out and doesn't cause issues when firing. Do a search and you will get all the info you need.
And in the worst case if you don't like it sure I'll take it off your hands for you for a small fee, lol

Bogwoppit

I haven’t installed that part before but I’ve done a few bits to my own 10/22.

2 reasons I can think of, obviously if the bolt is rubbing against the new trigger housing there’ll be more friction, if you take out the housing you might see where it’s rubbing and you could polish it and see if that helps.
The hammer in that unit make take more energy to cock, or there may be parts of the hammer/trigger mechanism rubbing. Again, take it apart and look for evidence of rubbing, polishing the parts will help.
The polishing doesn’t take too much time and is quite satisfying.

Wadi14

The 2 stage trigger is a completely different mechanism to a single stage 10/22 set up. The tolerances are tight it is basically a match trigger, the hammer is the only part that will, should come in contact with the rear of the bolt. No part of a 2 stage trigger unit needs or should be polished, 2 reasons for this 1. is it should not need it , 2 it will negate warranty on what is an expensive unit.
It does look like this units are harder to cock because of the hammer and trigger design, the only part that I would work on is to radius the back of the bolt, I have a Kidd bolt and I believe they are all radiused to smooth out the cocking action when the bolt hits the hammer . The stiffness in cocking should work itself out with lots of dry fire and range work.

As Bogwoppit has mentioned if you examine and see contact other than rear of bolt and hammer then something is not right.

cw67irl

Wadi14 wrote: »

The 2 stage trigger is a completely different mechanism to a single stage 10/22 set up. The tolerances are tight it is basically a match trigger, the hammer is the only part that will, should come in contact with the rear of the bolt. No part of a 2 stage trigger unit needs or should be polished, 2 reasons for this 1. is it should not need it , 2 it will negate warranty on what is an expensive unit.
It does look like this units are harder to cock because of the hammer and trigger design, the only part that I would work on is to radius the back of the bolt, I have a Kidd bolt and I believe they are all radiused to smooth out the cocking action when the bolt hits the hammer . The stiffness in cocking should work itself out with lots of dry fire and range work.

As Bogwoppit has mentioned if you examine and see contact other than rear of bolt and hammer then something is not right.

Dont dry fire a 10/22 it will damage the breech face and tbe firing pin!

Wadi14

cw67irl wrote: »

Dont dry fire a 10/22 it will damage the breech face and tbe firing pin!

I wouldn't dry fire my Anschutz rim fire rifle without a dry fire plug, but do dry fire my 10/22 because of the design of the bolt and firing pin .

The firing pin does not protrude out past the face of the bolt and also the firing pin retaining pin in the bolt also acts as a firing pin stop preventing the firing pin from traveling too far and striking the face of the breech.
As long as a 10/22 is functioning mechanically correctly, the firing pin will not touch the face of the breech.

Taken from a 10/22 manual
8. With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, push the safety to the “off” position and pull the trigger to decock it. The rifle can be “dry fired” for practice as long as it is empty and pointed in a safe direction.

cw67irl

Wadi14 wrote: »

I wouldn't dry fire my Anschutz rim fire rifle without a dry fire plug, but do dry fire my 10/22 because of the design of the bolt and firing pin .

The firing pin does not protrude out past the face of the bolt and also the firing pin retaining pin in the bolt also acts as a firing pin stop preventing the firing pin from traveling too far and striking the face of the breech.
As long as a 10/22 is functioning mechanically correctly, the firing pin will not touch the face of the breech.

Taken from a 10/22 manual
8. With the muzzle pointed in a safe direction, push the safety to the “off” position and pull the trigger to decock it. The rifle can be “dry fired” for practice as long as it is empty and pointed in a safe direction.

To be honest iv never looked at the 10/22 manual but if seen plenty with tired firing pins and damaged breech faces from dry firing..... Id be very wary of doing it particular whrn you start spending on Kidd Bits and the like

Wadi14

I agree with you any malfunctioning firearm can cause damage, on inspecting those 10/22's did you find out the cause of the damage , was it a faulty firing pin stop, firing pin too long , head space not correct , or possibly soft metal / aluminium barrel getting compressed?

scwazrh

To follow up on my earlier post . got to the Range today and within 50 rounds it was a nice smooth action so obviously it’s normal .
Thanks for the comments

Wadi14

Good to hear scwazrh, have you adjusted the first and second pressure to your liking yet ?

scwazrh

Not yet . Strangely the dealer i bought it from said don't try to adjust it ..Said its factory set at 1.5pound for each stage and to leave it like that ?Only out with it once since i got it so will spend some time getting used to it as is first .

Wadi14

By all means get used to a 2 stage trigger, as you get used to it you may fine that 3lbs is too heavy, especially if your doing any precision shooting, If you can get your hands on a trigger pull weight gauge if your going to adjust, see what the weights are now and you know what ur changing to as you go along.
Don't have the bottom screw 2nd stage lighter than the top first stage, or you'll have shots going off before your ready for them.

jb88

Ive had two stage Kidd Triggers for 10 years and in the interest of santity, please dont take them apart.

Having recently picked up a new 2 stage, It was correctly lubricated and greased at the contact points so I did adjust the length of pull via the two screws at the back of the trigger assembly. I was also the recipient of a new Kidd Bolt and yes there was some initial rubbing on the bolt but again some oil on the contact points along with changing the spring type to a lighter spring helped.

Most importantly with all ruger 10/22 s if you experience any jams after this, get the double mag covers from Tandemkross I think they are called. $10 each via the US. No missfires or failure to feeds since that was changed. You simply take apart the ruger 10/22 standard 10 rd mags and put them in the clear Tandemkross covers.

The new covers are sightly wider and fit much better in the mag wells of all 10/22's
Happy shooting