Cedar Cladding

Hi folks,

Just looking for some thoughts. I am doing up and extending a 1960s house at the moment and am considering putting some cedar cladding (vertical slats around a porch area maybe covering about 15 % of front) on the front of the house to make the exterior a bit more interesting and to break it up a little as it is quite a blocky house.

Has anyone any thoughts on using cedar cladding? My wife is concerned it will not age well, will go out of fashion and will require a lot of maintenance, while our architect is all for it.

We are rendering the rest of the house for a clean finish and installing black windows. I have also considered putting on some burnt larch but again my wife is not convinced.

Thanks in advance.

CarlowPerth

Cedar if maintained can look well but you could buy a composite Cladding that will give you the same look but will not need any maintenance

BryanF

Cedar (or scorched larch) etc are great if detailed correctly

If you don’t want the look of natural timber go with a composite but don’t install a fake ‘look a like’ timber.

BryanF

BryanF wrote: »

Cedar (or scorched larch) etc are great if detailed correctly

If you don’t want the look of natural timber go with a composite but don’t install a fake ‘look a like’ timber.

Thanks for advice. We'll definitely go with cedar or larch I would imagine. What do you mean by detailed correctly?

Jamesgrace

Vertical is good, a good overhang helps and keep it clear of the ground, the farther away the better. Treating it regularly will help and is essential if you want to retain the brown colour but if you're happy for it to turn silver you'll need very little maintenance. My workshop is clad in Douglas fir which isn't as durable as Cedar or Larch and it won't give trouble for a long time, I've seen Douglas exposed for twenty years with a single treatment. Planed timber is better than rough-sawn and is easier to treat, sapwood is not durable outside. The tendency for timber to rot tends to be exaggerated in this country and is less of an issue than many seem to think.

mrsWhippy

Jamesgrace wrote: »

Vertical is good, a good overhang helps and keep it clear of the ground, the farther away the better. Treating it regularly will help and is essential if you want to retain the brown colour but if you're happy for it to turn silver you'll need very little maintenance. My workshop is clad in Douglas fir which isn't as durable as Cedar or Larch and it won't give trouble for a long time, I've seen Douglas exposed for twenty years with a single treatment. Planed timber is better than rough-sawn and is easier to treat, sapwood is not durable outside. The tendency for timber to rot tends to be exaggerated in this country and is less of an issue than many seem to think.

When you say verticle, why would horizontal cladding pose an issue? Cheers

Jamesgrace

Jamesgrace wrote: »

Vertical is good, a good overhang helps and keep it clear of the ground, the farther away the better. Treating it regularly will help and is essential if you want to retain the brown colour but if you're happy for it to turn silver you'll need very little maintenance. My workshop is clad in Douglas fir which isn't as durable as Cedar or Larch and it won't give trouble for a long time, I've seen Douglas exposed for twenty years with a single treatment. Planed timber is better than rough-sawn and is easier to treat, sapwood is not durable outside. The tendency for timber to rot tends to be exaggerated in this country and is less of an issue than many seem to think.

Thanks for the feedback. It will be going from the ground up to first floor level so will keep in mind your tip for keeping it clear of ground.

T-Maxx

Vertical so there's no ponding on it. And the correct fasteners. And ventilation.

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T-Maxx wrote: »

Vertical so there's no ponding on it. And the correct fasteners. And ventilation.

Explain how you get 'ponding' on horizontally laid Cedar boards, either shiplap or butted format?