Warm Board--Anyone do this to bedrooms?

raspberrypi67

Just wondering if anyone has done this to their bedrooms at all...?

I have mould on 2 walls, not a lot but its consistant during the winter months and always in the same spot. I recon its the concrete they used between the actual wall and the plaster board forming a cold junction. The mould forms blobs just were these junctions are.
I'm fed up with the cleaning now. I need to do this exposed gable end wall and the window wall which is also but not quite as bad.
My dread is moving the radiator away from the window wall to acomadate the depth of insulation.
I also wonder how the sides of the window area would be done?? Stripped down to the block obviously but has anyone come across any hadden snags at all ?
I've no utilities to worry about in or around the walls, no pipes either, just under the floor.
Just wondering if I use the 3 layer warmboard from Kingspan firstly what other prep work should I be worried about, if any?

Thanks folks
R

MicktheMan

I know you didn't ask this but would you not be concerned that you will get interstitial condensation at the back of the new insulation and potentially many many times more mould than you are getting now without addressing the cause of the mould in the first place? This would result in a continuous mouldy / mildew smell in the room.

raspberrypi67

The mould, as I siad, only rests on the cold junction parts.

Why do you think the mould would form there and nowhere else in the room?

MicktheMan wrote: »

I know you didn't ask this but would you not be concerned that you will get interstitial condensation at the back of the new insulation and potentially many many times more mould than you are getting now without addressing the cause of the mould in the first place? This would result in a continuous mouldy / mildew smell in the room.

stiofan85

I've done it in all the bedrooms and have zero mould issues now, where there were serious problems before. Also put in double glazing and insulated the attic, which I think makes the whole house that bit warmer. I also open the windows every day for ventilation.

In terms of interstitial condensation, I was really nervous about this so did my research and ultimately ensured that the way the boards were stuck to the walls ensured that air could not get behind by putting a continuous bead of adhesive all the way around the edges and also repeating this across the board and where it met sockets and windows. TBH, I probably went over the top with the adhesive on the back as after pushing the board onto the wall, there were that many blobs & lines of adhesive there was very little, if any space for air to carry moisture back there. This also means there is no airflow down the back of the boards to cause draughts.

As for moving the rad, it's easy enough and any plumber will do it. Then you need the boards to be skim coated and painted.

raspberrypi67

Thanks for that info, yeah, its kinda what I expect i'll be doing too.

How did you find doing around the window edges, is it just a case of copying what was there already. ie it'll just be a thick piece of plaster with the insulation on it....
Do you screw/fasten it to the wall with screws also?

stiofan85 wrote: »

I've done it in all the bedrooms and have zero mould issues now, where there were serious problems before. Also put in double glazing and insulated the attic, which I think makes the whole house that bit warmer. I also open the windows every day for ventilation.

In terms of interstitial condensation, I was really nervous about this so did my research and ultimately ensured that the way the boards were stuck to the walls ensured that air could not get behind by putting a continuous bead of adhesive all the way around the edges and also repeating this across the board and where it met sockets and windows. TBH, I probably went over the top with the adhesive on the back as after pushing the board onto the wall, there were that many blobs & lines of adhesive there was very little, if any space for air to carry moisture back there. This also means there is no airflow down the back of the boards to cause draughts.

As for moving the rad, it's easy enough and any plumber will do it. Then you need the boards to be skim coated and painted.

sky6

I done a similar job to both a Bedroom and a Bathroom. I removed the old plasterboard as I had been advised to do so. it was dry lined Walls that had been Skimmed over. The Walls were lathed top and bottom Vertically and the insulated boards fixed to the laths using Mushroom washers and screws.Then it was all skimmed over again.
The Ceilings where also taken down and replaced with insulated Board as well as the Attic being topped up with Earthwool rolls.

The detail around the Windows. Again The old reveal was taken down and replace with approx 1 inch insulated board.
The Boards on the Face where left overhang the reveal but with the Insulation cut back flush to the reveal and removed.
Then the 1 inch board was slipped in behind it to form a square edge with the boards on the face. finish off with Angle bead and all skimmed to form a square edge around the Window.
All Holes and imperfections were sealed using Spray Foam.

The Plumbing is quite straight forward, In my case there was enough slack in the pipes to just move them Forward a couple of inches . A slightly more difficult Job was securing the Rad Brackets as I didn't want the Rad hanging from the new Insulated Boards. Especially if there large Rads.

It's done a couple of years now and no problems anywhere, thank God.

I hope this helps.

stiofan85

raspberrypi67 wrote: »

Thanks for that info, yeah, its kinda what I expect i'll be doing too.

How did you find doing around the window edges, is it just a case of copying what was there already. ie it'll just be a thick piece of plaster with the insulation on it....
Do you screw/fasten it to the wall with screws also?

Some I attached with mechanical anchors. Others not due to time constraints. I understand that in a fire, without mechanical fixings the foam can melt and plasterboard fall over. Not ideal so you should use anchors.

As for window detail I just followed the outline of the window and used regular plasterboard to tidy it up. If you were putting in new windows you could potentially insulate around the reveals but tbh I'm not sure the cold bridge scenario is gonna be that big a problem.

You can probably make more of an impact addressing air tightness. For instance I noticed a big impact on insulating my attic hatch and sealing around it. Around the windows I caulked all the smallest of gaps. This made a huge difference to heat loss. During the snow last week I became a draught Nazi in my kitchen and sealed every little leak and made a significant difference. All for the cost of some caulk and masking tape.

Obviously in your bedroom with mould ventilation is important, so while addressing air tightness you still need ventilation so ensure windows are opened during the day etc... The warm boards, if installed correctly should eliminate the cold surface for moisture to form on and make the rooms warmer and more comfortable.

raspberrypi67

How did you manage with the floor? I cant remember if the plaster on the walls goes down below floor level...
Also, are batons needed on the walls, I would imagine from what i see in google they are not, they all seem to use
glue/paste...