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glow worm boiler f28 error

  • 02-03-2018 8:13am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 701 ✭✭✭


    glow worm boiler f28 error, Boiler is about 6months old and this appeared yesterday - typical ! From reading the manual it appears to be an ignition fault, I have tried to reset numerous times with the power and + button to no avail.

    Cyclng through the menu I also see S98

    S.98
    Flow / Return - sensor check is running, demand
    Check flow & return thermistor connections to pipes.
    (DHW or heating) is blocked
    Check harness connection to thermistor.
    Check harness wires are not trapped between any
    internal components.

    I dd the hot water trick over the condensate outlet pipes but no joy there, any other ideas appreciated


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 292 ✭✭wizardman


    glow worm boiler f28 error, Boiler is about 6months old and this appeared yesterday - typical ! From reading the manual it appears to be an ignition fault, I have tried to reset numerous times with the power and + button to no avail.

    Cyclng through the menu I also see S98

    S.98
    Flow / Return - sensor check is running, demand
    Check flow & return thermistor connections to pipes.
    (DHW or heating) is blocked
    Check harness connection to thermistor.
    Check harness wires are not trapped between any
    internal components.

    I dd the hot water trick over the condensate outlet pipes but no joy there, any other ideas appreciated


    Your condense is frozen. Under the boiler on the left, there's a grey hose going over a white pipe remove the grey. Get a container to catch to water that will flow from the grey hose. Reset the boiler and the boiler should fire. Now reconnect the grey hose. This confirms the condense is frozen. Turn boiler off again.

    Try to defrost the pipe with hot water, Check around the shore/gully for ice and snow. Clear this and run hot right along the the white pipe outside may that 2 or 3 attempts. If not successful cut the pipe where it exit the wall about 3 inches from elbow. When the cold weather clears get your installer back to join the pipe back.

    Also ask him is it possible to insulated and /or increase the condense pipe or even run inside to minimize the chances of it happening again.

    I'd advise to turn the thermostat down a few degrees and leave the heat on for the next day or so.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 701 ✭✭✭danoriordan1402


    Wizardman - you are indeed a wizard ! - That worked a treat. From the bottom of the outlet there was a 6inch frozen clump of ice which I obviously failed to clear last night.
    :)
    All up and running now - thanks again


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,222 ✭✭✭Tow


    Don't forget to get the installer out to install the drain properly
    Condensate should, if possible be discharged into the
    household internal drainage system. If this is not practicable,
    discharge can be allowed into the external household drains or
    a purpose designed soak away, refer to diagram 9.2.
    It is recommended that any external condensate drain pipe is
    protected and also preferably of 32mm diameter, to prevent
    freezing in adverse weather conditions
    .

    If this can't be achieved a heated electrical wire can be added to stop the pipe freezing.

    When is the money (including lost growth) Michael Noonan took in the Pension Levy going to be paid back?



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 229 ✭✭lenoude


    Hey, heating is out since yesterday. It's a glow worm and I tried resetting it. The error code is f1. Any ideas?

    I've put umpteen kettles of hot water on the condensate pipe but no joy.

    Cheers

    Just to add, there was a bit of a gurgling noise coming from it when it tried to fire


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 292 ✭✭wizardman


    lenoude wrote: »
    Hey, heating is out since yesterday. It's a glow worm and I tried resetting it. The error code is f1. Any ideas?

    I've put umpteen kettles of hot water on the condensate pipe but no joy.

    Cheers

    Just to add, there was a bit of a gurgling noise coming from it when it tried to fire

    Its your condense pipe too. I'd say you have a flexicom? Follow steps above you may have to cut the pipe where it exits the house


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 229 ✭✭lenoude


    wizardman wrote: »
    Its your condense pipe too. I'd say you have a flexicom? Follow steps above you may have to cut the pipe where it exits the house

    Yeah that's the one!

    I'll try the hose at the boiler first so that should definitely let me know what that story is.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 349 ✭✭BabySlam


    I had the same problem yesterday - plumber came and solved it as described above.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 229 ✭✭lenoude


    So just tried it and it seemed to start firing but now it's giving an error code of f22.

    Thoughts?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    F22 on Glowworms can be one of a few things.
    Is it a HX model by any chance? It will have the model code on the bottom right of the front panel.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 229 ✭✭lenoude


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    F22 on Glowworms can be one of a few things.
    Is it a HX model by any chance? It will have the model code on the bottom right of the front panel.

    It actually is, 15hx


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    wizardman wrote: »
    Its your condense pipe too. I'd say you have a flexicom? Follow steps above you may have to cut the pipe where it exits the house

    I've had to cut a two pipes over the last two days for the same reason due to incorrect installations.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    lenoude wrote: »
    It actually is, 15hx

    Most common f22 issue i find on the HX is air in the system, especially if it has been fitted to a sealed system.
    When you try to start the boiler after pressing the reset button does the temperature reading on the display go up quite quickly?
    If it does..
    Turn off all downstairs rads and restart the boiler, press reset button and see if it wil purge air this way. It may take a few attemps.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 229 ✭✭lenoude


    K.Flyer wrote: »
    Most common f22 issue i find on the HX is air in the system, especially if it has been fitted to a sealed system.
    When you try to start the boiler after pressing the reset button does the temperature reading on the display go up quite quickly?
    If it does..
    Turn off all downstairs rads and restart the boiler, press reset button and see if it wil purge air this way. It may take a few attemps.

    Not really, it slowly creeps up from 10 to 15 before stopping. Takes about about 10 seconds?

    Cut the pipe outside and can't see where it's frozen even though there did seem to be water in the pipe when I pulled out the grey hose


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 292 ✭✭wizardman


    Turn off the fused unit beside or near the boiler. Leave off for about 5 mins. The flexicoms can get stuck on f22 errors.

    Switch back electrics and turn the time clock on and see how you go.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    Is it fitted to a sealed system, do you have a pressure gauge or system pressure top up valve somewhere?

    444235.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 229 ✭✭lenoude


    Gonna leave it lads, cheers for getting back to me though. Renting a place and it's a cheap job so the boiler is in an old fireplace behind a wardrobe.

    The pressure gauges don't work so any time I have to top it up its a case of trying it every few minutes while it's filling until it kicks in just so it doesn't over pressurise.

    The joys of the rental market


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