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Winter Tips for heating systems

  • 01-03-2018 2:39pm
    #1
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭


    Please feel free to add to this

    • Make sure to keep your condensate pipe free enough from ice to allow water to flow or you will end up with a damaged boiler.
    • Even more important, if you have been having a slight leak from your pressure relief valve overflow pipe, make sure that it doesn't block with ice. That would cause a very dangerous situation.
    • If there is severe drifting, make sure flue and boiler air intake is kept free.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,516 ✭✭✭Wheety


    I think my condensate pipe may already be iced up and it's not accessible. Any tips?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,063 ✭✭✭Cerco


    Any tips for replacing insulation on condensate pipe, what to use etc
    Mine is well weathered and patchy in places.


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Cerco wrote: »
    Any tips for replacing insulation on condensate pipe, what to use etc
    Mine is well weathered and patchy in places.

    Replacement would be best. For now any lagging material that you can get your hands on. If properly sized and run length within regulations, it should be fine anyway, but keep an eye on it.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Wheety wrote: »
    I think my condensate pipe may already be iced up and it's not accessible. Any tips?

    Its probably best to not use it then. I would advise giving your service guy a call for advice. maybe text him also in case he's not answering calls. He will know your setup and be best placed to advise.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,516 ✭✭✭Wheety


    Wearb wrote: »
    Its probably best to not use it then. I would advise giving your service guy a call for advice. maybe text him also in case he's not answering calls. He will know your setup and be best placed to advise.

    Would disconnecting the pipe near the boiler and putting a bucket underneath it work temporarily or would that damage the boiler?


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  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Wheety wrote: »
    Would disconnecting the pipe near the boiler and putting a bucket underneath it work temporarily or would that damage the boiler?
    From your other post I think its a gas boiler that you have. I don't think you are allowed to do too much if anything at that end of it.

    Perhaps one of the Gas guys on here will comment.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,378 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Please feel free to add to this

    Make sure to keep your condensate pipe free enough from ice to allow water to flow or you will end up with a damaged boiler.
    Even more important, if you have been having a slight leak from your pressure relief valve overflow pipe, make sure that it doesn't block with ice. That would cause a very dangerous situation.
    • If there is severe drifting, make sure flue and boiler air intake is kept free.

    Please follow site and charter rules. "Resistance is futile"



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,516 ✭✭✭Wheety


    I removed the little cap on the 'condensate syphon'. Emptied into a bucket and put the cap back. Heating and hot water working now. Hope it doesn't do any damage. Will keep emptying the syphon until it starts draining itself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,225 ✭✭✭WestWicklow1


    I have a condensing oil boiler for past ten years and it never entered my head that the condensate drain could freeze.

    Mine exits the boiler house to the outside and travels for about 300mm before entering a 90 degree elbow and turning a corner and continuing for about a meter (all at a gentle slope). Today (because of this thead) I had a look and the entire length of the pipe was completely covered in snow. I decided to take off the one meter length and poured hot (not boiling) water on the remainder (not knowing whether it was frozen or not). I put some insulating tube on it and laid a piece of plywood over it to keep the snow off. All temporary for the current conditions.

    What can I do to have it completely indoors? Is it a case of rerouting it into a receptical and emptying it on a regular basis?


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    In the event of a condensate drain freezeing on a gas boiler I would personally sooner have it emptying into a bucket under the boiler until the pipework is unblocked than interfere with the trap or pipework within the boiler itself which is unsafe as it can allow products of combination to enter the room.

    There is a water trap in the gas boiler preventing any products of combustion entering the room the boiler is in, the trap makes it safe for any temporary alterations to a condensate liquid pipework to drain into a bucket.

    Any gas boiler that had issues with a blockage should be checked for safety when practical to do so.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,516 ✭✭✭Wheety


    gary71 wrote: »
    In the event of a condensate drain freezeing on a gas boiler I would personally sooner have it emptying into a bucket under the boiler until the pipework is unblocked than interfere with the trap or pipework within the boiler itself which is unsafe as it can allow products of combination to enter the room.

    There is a water trap in the gas boiler preventing any products of combustion entering the room the boiler is in, the trap makes it safe for any temporary alterations to a condensate liquid pipework to drain into a bucket.

    Any gas boiler that had issues with a blockage should be checked for safety when practical to do so.

    I've actually turned off the power to the boiler. Will turn it on in the morning. I've read it could automatically refill when turned on.

    If not I'll try and refill it and have the condensate drain into a bucket after the trap.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Wheety wrote: »
    I've actually turned off the power to the boiler. Will turn it on in the morning. I've read it could automatically refill when turned on.

    If not I'll try and refill it and have the condensate drain into a bucket after the trap.

    Turn the power back on or the boiler may burst your boiler has inbuilt frost protection but only if it has power going to it, you can still leave the boiler turned off at the clock.

    Gas traps do fill quickly but all manufacturers require the trap to be full to prevent products of combustion entering the room.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,516 ✭✭✭Wheety


    gary71 wrote: »
    Turn the power back on or the boiler may burst your boiler has inbuilt frost protection but only if it has power going to it, you can still leave the boiler turned off at the clock.

    Gas traps do fill quickly but all manufacturers require the trap to be full to prevent products of combustion entering the room.

    I tried the heating for an hour this morning. Stopped after a while. Trap was full again. Instead of emptying trap/siphon, I just removed the rubber elbow connecting it to the white drainage pipe and put a bucket under it. I presume this is a safe temporary solution? Will get boiler serviced after this cold snap.


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