Question on Headsets Specification.

deeksofdoom

I have a Cube Peloton its my winter bike needs a few jobs done to it to get it ready again for next winter.

First job is the headset as it is pretty rough. I want to order a new one and fit it myself.

The specification for the headset is as follows:

FSA Orbit Z-t semi-integrated, top Zero Stack 1 1/8"", Diameter 44 mm, bottom integrated 1 1/2"

What exactly does all this mean?

nordicb

Headsets come in various flavours, easy to get wrong replacements. One is way is to dismantle the headset, it takes probably no more than 10 minutes, look and measure what you need to replace, then buy.

If you are not sure how to take it apart, then, perhaps, worth giving it to a mechanic...

gmacww

deeksofdoom wrote: »

I have a Cube Peloton its my winter bike needs a few jobs done to it to get it ready again for next winter.

First job is the headset as it is pretty rough. I want to order a new one and fit it myself.

The specification for the headset is as follows:

FSA Orbit Z-t semi-integrated, top Zero Stack 1 1/8"", Diameter 44 mm, bottom integrated 1 1/2"

What exactly does all this mean?

What it all means is the sizings of various parts. Replacing a headset yourself can work if you have the correct tools and also depending on the condition of the current one.

So to explain what you're asking. the 1 1/8" is the measurement of the steerer tube for the top bearing. It's 1 & 1/8" of an inch. The bottom bearing is larger as it has additional load so that's 1 1/2". If you took it apart you'd see the steerer tube is wider where it meets the fork than at the top.

Integrated means it's integrated with the frame and doesn't have additional cups that press into the frame. They are set inside it. Some older alu and steel frames have cups that press into the frame. That's non integrated.

Fitting or replacing that particular headset yourself is doable. The biggest issue you're likely to have is replacing the crown race. This can often be almost welded on. This is a small washer like park with an inner lip that goes onto the fork. It's the contact part with the lower bearing. If that's worn it's best to replace it but is often a nightmare to take off if you don't have a race remover tool. Getting a new one on also requires a tool or a bit of tubing as I use.

harringtonp

deeksofdoom wrote: »

I have a Cube Peloton its my winter bike needs a few jobs done to it to get it ready again for next winter.

First job is the headset as it is pretty rough. I want to order a new one and fit it myself.

The specification for the headset is as follows:

FSA Orbit Z-t semi-integrated, top Zero Stack 1 1/8"", Diameter 44 mm, bottom integrated 1 1/2"

What exactly does all this mean?

I've had rough headsets, opened them up, found a bad bearing, emailed bike manufacturer for bearing specs, ordered new one on https://www.bearing-king.co.uk/ and replaced. Much cheaper than buying a new headset and probably easier to fit as well

Mercian Pro

For the FSA Orbit MX on my bike, I was able to find a detailed parts drawing on the FSA website. This gave me the bearing sizes and parts numbers so I could source them on Chain Reaction. I bought a pair and have so far replaced the bottom one as it started getting rough a few weeks ago. It's a reasonably straightforward job and there are some good videos available to help.
I don't see your headset on the FSA site but they should be able to give you the details of the bearings as harringtonp has suggested. Good luck with job.

My own feels like it's due a look at, after looking at the GCN video on how to remove everything and put it back together seems the hard part is working out what you need.

Typically how often do they need replacing? I get weather plays a role in this.

Mercian Pro

All you need are the correct bearings, the right type of grease and an allen key to remove the bars. I had trouble sliding the spacers off the carbon steerer tube until I realised I had to first remove the expanding alloy fitting inside it.

With the FSA headset on the good bike, I noticed rust marks on the top of the forks after wet spins about two years and 20k km after I bought the bike. I don't have continuous mudguards and the gap under the front brake allowed water to spray up at the bottom bearing. The fact that there is so much salt on the roads probably didn't help either.

My Cannondale Synapse with an integrated headset is nearly ten years old and I have never had to even think about the bearings.