upgrading heating and insulation.

kingbhome

Dormer house was built in 2003, built to old regs. Has large windows at south facing front and some medium at back with a large double door at back.

What i want is external insulation, new back boiler stove and insulation in the open spaces in attic and other places where i can get to.

Ive been getting conflicting advice from people concerning the external insulation. Even the people i had out quoting had different opinions!
One said i also need to pump the cavity for best performance. Another said, no need to pump aslong as i cover my cavity closers with insulation to keep the rising heat in.

A friend said, best to insulate internally and get the air test to stop any leaks.

Im really interested on a back boiler stove but again, ive had 4 people tell me they arent that good at heating all the rads in a large house! One even disconnected his and now just heating the room. My close friend mentioned that if i do go with the back boiler stove, ill need to put the oil on for an hour because the stove does take some time to heat the house.

You can see, im now stuck with all these opinions from others and dont know what to do. I have inherited some money and want to spend it wisely this spring/summer but need advice on whats best to do next.

Looking to hear from others who have the external insulation, a new back boiler stove for their opinions on whats best to do.

Thanks, kingb

BryanF

With External, best to pump the cavity

air-tightness, and drylining don’t have anything to do with each other.

Back boiler, this would need to be sized based in the number of rads. The boiler needs to be suitable, with expansion vessel, With a lot of rads the back boiler can take a few hours to service then before the room will heat up.

MicktheMan

As it's a dormer, understand where all your air leakage paths are first (have the house tested). Then decide what works are to be done on the house.

kingbhome

MicktheMan wrote: »

As it's a dormer, understand where all your air leakage paths are first (have the house tested). Then decide what works are to be done on the house.

I will be getting it air tested but it was built in 2003 to the regs back then, even if i stop all the air leaks, ill still need to upgrade the insulation and heating.

What would be the going rate to get a house air tested.

kingbhome

BryanF wrote: »

With External, best to pump the cavity

air-tightness, and drylining don’t have anything to do with each other.

Back boiler, this would need to be sized based in the number of rads. The boiler needs to be suitable, with expansion vessel, With a lot of rads the back boiler can take a few hours to service then before the room will heat up.

You say best to pump but isnt it still possible to install it without pumping. If the cavity closer is covered with xtratherm and foam insulaion, his should stop the rising heat loss up and out the cavity.

BAck boiler takes a few hours to heat the rads!!:eek: Why does this take so long? So bascilcly what ive been hearing about them not being great for large houses is true. What other alternatives is there for heating the house on a duel system.

MicktheMan

kingbhome wrote: »

I will be getting it air tested but it was built in 2003 to the regs back then, even if i stop all the air leaks, ill still need to upgrade the insulation and heating.

Would you? If a decent job is done on air leakage then the improvement might well be significant enough to not need insulation / heating upgrade. It all depends on where you're starting from.

kingbhome wrote: »

What would be the going rate to get a house air tested.

4-500 for proper whole house survey/test/discussion/report.

kingbhome

MicktheMan wrote: »

Would you? If a decent job is done on air leakage then the improvement might well be significant enough to not need insulation / heating upgrade. It all depends on where you're starting from.


4-500 for proper whole house survey/test/discussion/report.

I find it hard to believe a house built to 2003 regs would only need to stop the air leaks to make it more comfortable than needing more insulation. Where talking about aero board in the cavities, 3 inch(if i remember correctly) fiberglass insulation in the attic, spaces in dormers. If this was the case, the government would have a big push on to stop old houses loosing heat through air leaks rather than spending all that money upgrading the insulation. TBH, i dont mind upgrading my insulation, i just dont want to waste money on a stove that wont heat the house as i want it to.

MicktheMan

kingbhome wrote: »

I find it hard to believe a house built to 2003 regs would only need to stop the air leaks to make it more comfortable than needing more insulation. Where talking about aero board in the cavities, 3 inch(if i remember correctly) fiberglass insulation in the attic, spaces in dormers. If this was the case, the government would have a big push on to stop old houses loosing heat through air leaks rather than spending all that money upgrading the insulation. TBH, i dont mind upgrading my insulation, i just dont want to waste money on a stove that wont heat the house as i want it to.

Believe it. Vested interests is the reason the government are continuously pushing more and more insulation via grants etc. Lack of air tightness is THE main reason people are cold in their houses in Ireland, period. And dormers, as a category of house type, are among the worst performers!

If you not into wasting your money, then before you do anything have your house tested by a competent experienced professional and then decide on improvement measures.

BryanF

kingbhome wrote: »

1. You say best to pump but isnt it still possible to install it without pumping.
2. If the cavity closer is covered with xtratherm and foam insulaion, his should stop the rising heat loss up and out the cavity.
3. Back boiler takes a few hours to heat the rads!!:eek: Why does this take so long?
4. So bascilcly what ive been hearing about them not being great for large houses is true. What other alternatives is there for heating the house on a duel system.

1. Yes, but why wouldn’t you pump? It makes no sense? Why leave a big air-cavity that WILL have some drafts no mater how good the cavity closers.
2. Not really
3. Because your using a small hot water feed to push around an existing, probably in heated rad pipe network.
4. As I see it, no one wants to pay for design anymore, all the advice you’ve gotten so far has been free?
5. Lots. Don’t discount the back boiler, but if it’s a big house you may need to put up with the flat or preheat the rad system a little

kingbhome wrote: »

6. I find it hard to believe a house built to 2003 regs would only need to stop the air leaks to make it more comfortable than needing more insulation.
7. Where talking about aero board in the cavities, 3 inch(if i remember correctly) fiberglass insulation in the attic, spaces in dormers. If this was the case, the government would have a big push on to stop old houses loosing heat through air leaks rather than spending all that money upgrading the insulation.
8. TBH, i dont mind upgrading my insulation, i just dont want to waste money on a stove that wont heat the house as i want it to.

6. on typical Irish windy day, air leakage / drafts can make an amount of insulation pointless
7. They have, there is more regulations and guidance out there, but ultimately the government expect the private sector to advise clients. But the average homeowner won’t pay for advice. They just want a builder to do stuff.
8. Just size the stove and heating system correctly considering your heat loss and Air changes and you’ll be ok. Getting a plumber to do that will be the challange.

kingbhome

BryanF wrote: »

Getting a plumber to do that will be the challange.

Who should i get to do it and whats invloved.

kingbhome

BryanF wrote: »

1. Yes, but why wouldn’t you pump? It makes no sense? Why leave a big air-cavity that WILL have some drafts no mater how good the cavity closers.
2. Not really
3. Because your using a small hot water feed to push around an existing, probably in heated rad pipe network.
4. As I see it, no one wants to pay for design anymore, all the advice you’ve gotten so far has been free?
5. Lots. Don’t discount the back boiler, but if it’s a big house you may need to put up with the flat or preheat the rad system a little

6. on typical Irish windy day, air leakage / drafts can make an amount of insulation pointless
7. They have, there is more regulations and guidance out there, but ultimately the government expect the private sector to advise clients. But the average homeowner won’t pay for advice. They just want a builder to do stuff.
8. Just size the stove and heating system correctly considering your heat loss and Air changes and you’ll be ok. Getting a plumber to do that will be the challange.

Also, whats used to stop all the air leaks.