Starting issue

Hal1

I haven't used my car for a while now (mk1 focus petrol). So as you'd imagine the battery has gone flat. I have one of those halfords battery chargers. So I stuck it on a charge and it was finished charging in about 10 minutes. That was quick I taught. I measured the battery voltage with a multimeter at full charge and it was 14.5v.

Then I unplugged the charger and tested the output again, I could see the voltage dropping by 1v every 5 seconds or so. I brought the battery to a motor factors there to get it tested and it passed the test.

I got a printout of the test, the results were 12.7v, cca was 453cca (out of 520cca) bosch silver battery.

Now, when I put the battery in the car, turn the ignition on, dash lights come on. Turn it to crank and no crank, just the relay sound but not sure which one. I don't hear the fuel pump prime either.

Any ideas?

Avns1s

Try a jump start.
If that works, then indications are the battery is the problem.

CJhaughey

Put your multimeter on the battery when you try and start it, see what the voltage does, it may test at 12.7 but under load drop to 12v or under which is about 30-40%
How long was it flat for? If it was any significant time it may be beyond recovery.

case_sensitive

Hal1 wrote: »

I haven't used my car for a while now (mk1 focus petrol). So as you'd imagine the battery has gone flat. I have one of those halfords battery chargers. So I stuck it on a charge and it was finished charging in about 10 minutes. That was quick I taught. I measured the battery voltage with a multimeter at full charge and it was 14.5v.

Then I unplugged the charger and tested the output again, I could see the voltage dropping by 1v every 5 seconds or so. I brought the battery to a motor factors there to get it tested and it passed the test.

I got a printout of the test, the results were 12.7v, cca was 453cca (out of 520cca) bosch silver battery.

Now, when I put the battery in the car, turn the ignition on, dash lights come on. Turn it to crank and no crank, just the relay sound but not sure which one. I don't hear the fuel pump prime either.

Any ideas?

10 mins definitely isn’t enough to charge a dead battery, but the test results sound right, could their tester be duff?
Do you access to second battery to test with? Obvious easiest way to do this is a jump start.
If your charger has a slow conditioning charge (starts low and builds up voltage) put it on that overnight.

Hal1

That's what I taught too as it was a quick charge (the battery wasn't completely dead but a bit low).
I've yet to try the suggestions the other lads mentioned above. I'll let you know what happens.

case_sensitive

CJhaughey wrote: »

Put your multimeter on the battery when you try and start it, see what the voltage does, it may test at 12.7 but under load drop to 12v or under which is about 30-40%
How long was it flat for? If it was any significant time it may be beyond recovery.

Yeah, definitely try this, as far as I remember, it can dip to 10.5V and still be ok, ut 8-9 and its goosed. The CCA test should have measured this same effect though. After several problematic batteries in 2 cars that spend 99% of their time sitting on the drive/garage, I bought a battery tester

Hal1

CJhaughey wrote: »

Put your multimeter on the battery when you try and start it, see what the voltage does, it may test at 12.7 but under load drop to 12v or under which is about 30-40%
How long was it flat for? If it was any significant time it may be beyond recovery.

Well finally got around to testing this out. Multimeter on the battery and I can hear the starter click when I turn on the ignition. The voltage drops to about 11volts whilst cranking. Seems pretty low... I was going to try jump starting before writing off the battery.

JohnBoy26

Hal1 wrote: »

Well finally got around to testing this out. Multimeter on the battery and I can hear the starter click when I turn on the ignition. The voltage drops to about 11volts whilst cranking. Seems pretty low... I was going to try jump starting before writing off the battery.

Or you could leave it on a regular charge overnight and see if it will fire up the next day.

Hal1

Ok, so I managed to get a pair of jumpleads to test. When I turn on the ignition the dash lights come on and the fuel pump primes. Turn the key again and 1 click is heard. The donor vehicles engine revs dip very slightly when attempted to turn over my car. (I didn't use a multimeter to check voltages this time).

As far as I know the engine will still turn over (hasn't been lying up that long). So starter and associated wiring is next, unless anyone would like to add something. Thanks!

wexie

If it's been stood up for a while it could just be a sticky bendix, try giving the starter a few taps?

JohnBoy26

wexie wrote: »

If it's been stood up for a while it could just be a sticky bendix, try giving the starter a few taps?

Relay sound would suggest battery to me but maybe so.

JohnBoy26

Hal1 wrote: »

Ok, so I managed to get a pair of jumpleads to test. When I turn on the ignition the dash lights come on and the fuel pump primes. Turn the key again and 1 click is heard. The donor vehicles engine revs dip very slightly when attempted to turn over my car. (I didn't use a multimeter to check voltages this time).

As far as I know the engine will still turn over (hasn't been lying up that long). So starter and associated wiring is next, unless anyone would like to add something. Thanks!

Are the jump leads good? Are they heavy duty cables? Some of the cheaper leads are light and next to useless

Esel

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

Relay sound would suggest battery to me but maybe so.

What is the diagnosis if you hear a rapid series of clicks?

Hal1

wexie wrote: »

If it's been stood up for a while it could just be a sticky bendix, try giving the starter a few taps?

I tried the 'tap method' early on, but made no difference to trying to start the car.

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

Relay sound would suggest battery to me but maybe so.

Battery has been charged and tested. Apparently its' good. It didn't start on a jump start though. That's why I'm focusing on the starter for now.

JohnBoy26 wrote: »

Are the jump leads good? Are they heavy duty cables? Some of the cheaper leads are light and next to useless

Brand new heavy duty leads, only got them and used once.

Esel wrote: »

What is the diagnosis if you hear a rapid series of clicks?

Only getting one click whilst trying to start.

tcawley29

Hal1 wrote: »

I tried the 'tap method' early on, but made no difference to trying to start the car.



Battery has been charged and tested. Apparently its' good. It didn't start on a jump start though. That's why I'm focusing on the starter for now.



Brand new heavy duty leads, only got them and used once.



Only getting one click whilst trying to start.

Would it be possible to try another battery or get the battery tested at another place for a second opinion?

I had this before and it was the battery.

Swapped out and good as new

Esel

Esel wrote: »

What is the diagnosis if you hear a rapid series of clicks?

Bumping this slight thread hijack :

wexie

Esel wrote: »

Bumping this slight thread hijack :

Check the battery connection and earthing strap. I've had it before where the battery terminals were tight but the actual connection from terminal to wire was iffy and got something like it.

Hal1

Hal1 wrote: »

When I turn on the ignition the dash lights come on and the fuel pump primes. Turn the key again and 1 click is heard. The donor vehicles engine revs dip very slightly when attempted to turn over my car. (I didn't use a multimeter to check voltages this time).

As far as I know the engine will still turn over (hasn't been lying up that long). So starter and associated wiring is next, unless anyone would like to add something. Thanks!

Well just to update on this issue. I bought a new starting motor, fitted it after some time... and now it starts.

Sam Quentin

case_sensitive wrote: »

Yeah, definitely try this, as far as I remember, it can dip to 10.5V and still be ok, ut 8-9 and its goosed. The CCA test should have measured this same effect though. After several problematic batteries in 2 cars that spend 99% of their time sitting on the drive/garage, I bought a battery tester

What is my cca telling me on a similar tester to yours... This is my 'spare' battery and it's not installed in my car..