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Concrete curing

  • 19-01-2018 3:24pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 352 ✭✭


    Hoping to pour couple loads of readymix concrete next week weather permitting.
    I know it’s not the ideal time for it, but it’s an area where the milk collection trucks travel, and during the dry period is only time I’ll get to do it.
    So now I’m wondering how long should I avoid driving on it...? Tractor, milk truck etc. 5-6inch depth. Feedback welcome.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,048 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    If you really wanted to speed up the curing process this time of the year. Put down a layer of straw over the concrete as soon as you can walk on it or maybe you can cover from the sides and cover that with a sheet of plastic. Old silage covers if you had them.

    Ideally about 5 days with the tractor or anything heavy.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 939 ✭✭✭Aravo


    Along with a very wet day, frost would not be good. So try and avoid that. I would leave it a week at least. A lot of concrete achieves good strength after 7 days and full strength at 21-28 days. If a milk tanker will be on it I would use mesh reinforcement with some plastic under or if available some old silage cover. As with concrete, loads of help and don't water it down for the no shovelling effect used by many.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 352 ✭✭Snowfire


    Aravo wrote: »
    Along with a very wet day, frost would not be good. So try and avoid that. I would leave it a week at least. A lot of concrete achieves good strength after 7 days and full strength at 21-28 days. If a milk tanker will be on it I would use mesh reinforcement with some plastic under or if available some old silage cover. As with concrete, loads of help and don't water it down for the no shovelling effect used by many.

    Ya, I’ve been guilty of that myself, adding water to leave the leveling job easier. Keeping traffic off it for a week or 10 days won’t be a problem, didn’t know if that would be long enough these days with such little drying out.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,923 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Is it a very large area? You might want to cut it to allow for expansion on hot days.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 939 ✭✭✭Aravo


    Snowfire wrote:
    Ya, I’ve been guilty of that myself, adding water to leave the leveling job easier. Keeping traffic off it for a week or 10 days won’t be a problem, didn’t know if that would be long enough these days with such little drying out.

    The cement content in the concrete will dry it out, the heat that concrete generates is phenomenal. The damper weather allows the concrete to dry out slowly which I think is better. On hot days you would be the whole time putting water on it.
    Odelay wrote:
    Is it a very large area? You might want to cut it to allow for expansion on hot days.

    +1 cracks don't look good.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    If you are going to be running 30 tonne trucks on it regularly corners may be borderline strength wise at 6 inch.
    In terms of curing time, id keep off it for 7 days and keep heavy trucks off it for 20 days or more.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,175 ✭✭✭SuperTortoise


    I'd leave it a week+ curing before driving anything heavy over it at the very least.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 695 ✭✭✭3 the square


    7 inches of 40 n concreate with heavy steel mesh underneath try staying off it for 3 weeks u have invested a nice sum of money don't risk losing it could u draw the milk out to the milk lorry for few weeks?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 352 ✭✭Snowfire


    Odelay wrote: »
    Is it a very large area? You might want to cut it to allow for expansion on hot days.

    Stretch that milk truck will travel is 4 meters wide x 40 long.
    I was told before that adding fiber mesh to mix really only helps prevent cracking during the first few days and isn’t going to prevent cracking from heavy traffic, so ya expansion joints would be the job I suppose.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 352 ✭✭Snowfire


    7 inches of 40 n concreate with heavy steel mesh underneath try staying off it for 3 weeks u have invested a nice sum of money don't risk losing it could u draw the milk out to the milk lorry for few weeks?

    No, drawing the milk isn’t really an option for me.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,920 ✭✭✭freedominacup


    7 inches of 40 n concreate with heavy steel mesh underneath try staying off it for 3 weeks u have invested a nice sum of money don't risk losing it could u draw the milk out to the milk lorry for few weeks?

    Put a key at the edge where tanker will be coming on to it. Basically pour ten inches for a couple of feet for extra strength.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,778 ✭✭✭Dakota Dan


    It takes 28 days for concrete to cure.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭Who2


    Dakota Dan wrote: »
    It takes 28 days for concrete to cure.

    28 years if your being specific.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,923 ✭✭✭Odelay


    Snowfire wrote: »
    Stretch that milk truck will travel is 4 meters wide x 40 long.
    I was told before that adding fiber mesh to mix really only helps prevent cracking during the first few days and isn’t going to prevent cracking from heavy traffic, so ya expansion joints would be the job I suppose.

    If it's 40m long you need joints or cuts. Ask on the construction form or ask concrete supplier. Joints are fine, unexpected cracks are a hoor. Extra inches on the ramp is also a good idea.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,778 ✭✭✭Dakota Dan


    Who2 wrote: »
    28 years if your being specific.
    Not being specific just stating facts :rolleyes:


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 23,688 ✭✭✭✭mickdw


    Dakota Dan wrote: »
    Not being specific just stating facts :rolleyes:

    Concrete is continually getting stronger over its lifetime so 28 years comment is not wrong.
    It will be required to be at design strength at 28 days or before but will have gained alot of its strength in the early days and then the strength gain is slower as it goes past say 21 days.

    56 day old concrete will be stronger than 28 day old concrete.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,920 ✭✭✭freedominacup




  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,966 ✭✭✭dzer2


    Snowfire wrote: »
    Hoping to pour couple loads of readymix concrete next week weather permitting.
    I know it’s not the ideal time for it, but it’s an area where the milk collection trucks travel, and during the dry period is only time I’ll get to do it.
    So now I’m wondering how long should I avoid driving on it...? Tractor, milk truck etc. 5-6inch depth. Feedback welcome.

    Few things on this.
    Any yards for artic travel we have put in are 8" with mesh or fibre.
    We always do a 28 day test for the strength and leave for 50 days before travel
    Try to have 2 layers of mesh in 10" at the edge and space the mesh properly.
    Get the concrete specified as in the contents. Sand, stone, stone size, Newton spec and others like ash and silicone. This will give the hardness on the surface.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 418 ✭✭cycle4fun


    Snowfire wrote: »
    Stretch that milk truck will travel is 4 meters wide x 40 long.
    I was told before that adding fiber mesh to mix really only helps prevent cracking during the first few days and isn’t going to prevent cracking from heavy traffic, so ya expansion joints would be the job I suppose.

    I done a bit of concreting in my own farmyard a few years ago. I found it good to set up bays for pouring the concrete, with a width of approx 4m (12' wide). Bays wider then this can be difficult to screed and compact.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,778 ✭✭✭Dakota Dan


    mickdw wrote: »
    Concrete is continually getting stronger over its lifetime so 28 years comment is not wrong.
    It will be required to be at design strength at 28 days or before but will have gained alot of its strength in the early days and then the strength gain is slower as it goes past say 21 days.

    56 day old concrete will be stronger than 28 day old concrete.

    I bow to your superior intelligence sir :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 939 ✭✭✭Aravo


    Can't see the 50 day no travel method working on any Dermot Bannon jobs


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 400 ✭✭Panjandrums


    This post has been deleted.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭kieran.


    if your putting saw cut joints in do the bays in a 6:5 ratio approx


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,129 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Make sure the mesh is in at the right height too. Right in the middle and it is useless.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 3,433 ✭✭✭darragh_haven


    Make sure the mesh is in at the right height too. Right in the middle and it is useless.

    If using mesh, it's usually 50mm from the top or the bottom. Minimum 35mm concrete cover is required


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,335 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    cycle4fun wrote: »
    I done a bit of concreting in my own farmyard a few years ago. I found it good to set up bays for pouring the concrete, with a width of approx 4m (12' wide). Bays wider then this can be difficult to screed and compact.

    Did you ever try the ''magicscreed''.....takes the backache out of it. for those narrow screeds up to 12ft

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyxnGFyhyc0


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 352 ✭✭Snowfire


    kieran. wrote: »
    if your putting saw cut joints in do the bays in a 6:5 ratio approx

    6:5 ratio...?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭Who2


    Aravo wrote: »
    Can't see the 50 day no travel method working on any Dermot Bannon jobs

    Worked on a good few of his jobs. Most of his jobs were a disaster but all looked fierce well on camera .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,335 ✭✭✭✭wrangler


    Who2 wrote: »
    Worked on a good few of his jobs. Most of his jobs were a disaster but all looked fierce well on camera .

    The builder seemed to pull the job outa the fire everytime......a good builder is as good as most architects


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  • Closed Accounts Posts: 418 ✭✭cycle4fun


    Who2 wrote: »
    Worked on a good few of his jobs. Most of his jobs were a disaster but all looked fierce well on camera .

    A disaster in what way? Was the job rushed and concrete crack, leaks or whatever?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 939 ✭✭✭Aravo


    When did he ever mention anything about: heating systems and what was used and why. Types of windows and doors. Type of insulation used. What energy rating the house achieved at end of build.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,176 ✭✭✭Kevhog1988


    10 inches of concrete is fecking madness... theres only 4 inches of tar in most roads.... id put 6 inches down


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,048 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    10 inches of concrete is fecking madness... theres only 4 inches of tar in most roads.... id put 6 inches down

    It's the milk lorry turning on the concrete that does the damage.
    The Glanbia milk lorries are the heaviest lorries going the roads.
    There's a bit of play and elasticity in tarmacadam. There's none in concrete.
    I have 6 inches of concrete cracking from the lorries here. Granted there's no steel reinforcement in it. But there you go.
    You'd live and learn everyday.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,175 ✭✭✭kieran.


    Snowfire wrote: »
    6:5 ratio...?

    long narrow bays are more susceptible to cracking from shrinkage bays should be aprrox 6:5....6m x 5m or 3m x 2.5m etc


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,129 ✭✭✭✭patsy_mccabe


    Isn't it gas that everyone has an opinion when it comes to putting down concrete. :)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 748 ✭✭✭valtra2


    Isn't it gas that everyone has an opinion when it comes to putting down concrete. :)

    Ya and I wonder how many have put down concrete and done all the things above. I have poured a bit of concrete in my day and you ask farmers to put steel in it and no way will they get it or tell them to keep it wet in the summer and you know they just left it the minute we left.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,176 ✭✭✭Kevhog1988


    valtra2 wrote: »
    Ya and I wonder how many have put down concrete and done all the things above. I have poured a bit of concrete in my day and you ask farmers to put steel in it and no way will they get it or tell them to keep it wet in the summer and you know they just left it the minute we left.

    Id say ive poured .ore than most... fma lot of lads would put ib 4 inches more but no mesh


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 352 ✭✭Snowfire


    Id say ive poured .ore than most... fma lot of lads would put ib 4 inches more but no mesh

    What size mesh, and at what dept for my job, ya reckon..?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,048 ✭✭✭✭Say my name


    Isn't it gas that everyone has an opinion when it comes to putting down concrete. :)

    Tis gas alright.
    But sure when you're spending a sizable chunk you want to do it right. I've learnt from my own few bits and neighbours that you'd need 6in and mesh minimum.
    Just make sure you put down some ducting (for future cables etc) in places.
    Nothing worse than trying to cut and dig up trenches after in the future.

    Cooney Furlong put in 9 in of reinforced concrete down in their grain fert intake yard.

    Edited to say the community public/council roadway jobs around here used 6in (but was deeper in parts) of concrete and mesh.

    Then there's the concrete strength (Newton) ....


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,176 ✭✭✭Kevhog1988


    Snowfire wrote: »
    Id say ive poured .ore than most...  fma lot of lads would put ib 4 inches more but no mesh

    What size mesh, and at what dept for my job, ya reckon..?
    Snowfire wrote: »
    Id say ive poured .ore than most...  fma lot of lads would put ib 4 inches more but no mesh

    What size mesh, and at what dept for my job, ya reckon..?

    6/8 inches and a252 mesh would be sufficient/.... get c40 concrete if you can


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,434 ✭✭✭have2flushtwice


    What's the price for concrete these days?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 748 ✭✭✭valtra2


    What's the price for concrete these days?

    65 to 72 a meter depending on Newton


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭Who2


    valtra2 wrote: »
    65 to 72 a meter depending on Newton

    Very few if any that I know of selling anything at 65at themoment. 68 minimum any place I know of.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,176 ✭✭✭Kevhog1988


    What's the price for concrete these days?

    560 for a load from hanlons


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,123 ✭✭✭Who2


    560 for a load from hanlons

    8 or 9 metre


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