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Bonnet on Ford S-Max won't close properly

  • 10-01-2018 12:51am
    #1
    Jimbob1977
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,239 ✭✭✭


    Hi all,

    I have a Ford S-Max 1.8 TDCI from Year 2009.

    At the moment, the bonnet won't shut fully.

    The snag passes through the first (higher) latch. That's the latch that opens when you slide the lever outside the bonnet.

    However, the snag does not seem to ever reach the lower latch, no matter how hard I slam or manually press down.

    I applied WD40 and both upper and lower latches are moving freely.

    Can anyone suggest what might be wrong? There is no obvious obstruction that's stopping the snag from reaching the lower latch, but it can't seem to make it down.

    It feels like something is blocking the gap, like a misalignment.

    I won't have a chance to address the problem until tomorrow evening, but it would be great to get a few possibilities to explore.


Comments

  • #2
    martinr5232
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,298 ✭✭✭martinr5232


    Look at where the cable is attached to the lock that little lever is stuck most likely.
    Just poke it with a screwdriver it should work.


  • #3
    Jimbob1977
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,239 ✭✭✭Jimbob1977


    Success!!

    The bonnet is now closed.

    Hard to know what ultimately fixed it.

    I'm sure it was the combination of WD40 and gently prodding the latches and spring with a screwdriver. The alignment was evidently restored.


  • #4
    WildWater
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 743 ✭✭✭WildWater


    It's a common problem on the S-Max and if I were a betting man I'd be putting money on this issue reoccuring. Basically the cable is corroding and eventually it will need to be replaced. I had a 07 with this problem. I got a new cable on eBay and installed it myself. Was easier to do than I was expecting.

    If you do decided to replace it then two tips.

    1) don't remove the old one without leaving guide wire. (I may have cut the old one and used as a guide wire.)
    2) I think new one comes complete with a new release lever attached. Disconnect at the pull level and feed through from the engine bay into the car. (Note it's a couple of years since I did mine but I'm pretty certain that's the way I did it.)

    The bulkhead rubber on the replacement may not be correctly positioned. On mine it ended up well into the engine bay but the cable worked fine.

    You will need to remove some components and do a bit of hoking and poking but overall an easier job than I was expecting.


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