Immersion heater and switch wiring problem

harlley

Hi guys.
I just changed my dual immersion heater and unfortunately I did have to change my old switch. I think I mixed up the wires.
Could somebody have a look and tell me what I did wrong.
Picture attached.
Wires on heater element:
N1- Brown
N2- Blue
T- Black
E- Yellow - Green

Wires on Switch
N-out - Blue wire from N2
N-in - Blue wire from board
L-in - Brown wire from board
SI-L2 - Black wire from T
BA-S1 - Brown wire from N1

Any help would be appreciated.

Pete67

Looks OK to me, apart from the terminations, there appears to be a few strands of copper not secured in some of the terminals. What is not working? If sink and bath are reversed just swop brown and black at the SI / BA terminals on the switch. Also check the overheat switch (between the two white wires) is not tripped.

aido79

harlley wrote: »

Hi guys.
I just changed my dual immersion heater and unfortunately I did have to change my old switch. I think I mixed up the wires.
Could somebody have a look and tell me what I did wrong.
Picture attached.
Wires on heater element:
N1- Brown
N2- Blue
T- Black
E- Yellow - Green

Wires on Switch
N-out - Blue wire from N2
N-in - Blue wire from board
L-in - Brown wire from board
SI-L2 - Black wire from T
BA-S1 - Brown wire from N1

Any help would be appreciated.

Did you move the white wire or was it already in position?
You seem to have every wire in the wrong terminal. The blue and the brown need to be swapped around so that the blue goes to the neutral terminal and the brown goes to the thermostat. I would think that the black and white should be swapped as well but not sure on that one. Maybe someone else can verify that. Did it come with a wiring diagram? If so can you post a picture of it please.

Tuco88

You always break the neutral via the stat in dual coil elements. If you place the brown on it the Blk has a licence to fry.

It looks to be wired ok whats the problem?

There was a colour issue with older pre wired elements the blue was wired as a phase so on...

aido79

Tuco88 wrote: »

You always break the neutral via the stat in dual coil elements. If you place the brown on it the Blk has a licence to fry.

It looks to be wired ok whats the problem?

There was a colour issue with older pre wired elements the blue was wired as a phase so on...

Ok I stand corrected.

harlley

Hi guys
Thanks for answers.

The problem is when I switch to sink the water is boiling and is tripping the little black reset switch on the coil.
I have 60C set as temperature.

The coil and switch is brand new.

ZENER

The White cable at the element should be at the N1 terminal in my opinion. This is the Common terminal for the two elements. What happens when you switch to Bath ? Does the water heat up ?

It looks like in that position the 2 elements are in series reducing the power output meaning the water would take much longer to heat up in the Bath position.

As for the water boiling, perhaps the stat is faulty/shorted. Looks like someone may have "had a go" before you ? Replace the stat.

Ken

Pete67

The white cable at the element appears to be going to a short link bar which joins two terminals, suggesting that this is the common connection to the two elements. Hard to see clearly in the pic. If so, then the wiring is correct. Either way the thermostat must be faulty if the water is getting anywhere close to boiling. Replace it and see it that resolves the issues.

harlley

Pete67 you were absolutely right. Zener you too:).
It was thermostat everything is working fine now.
Thanks a million to everybody.

ZENER

You're welcome

harlley

Problem is back.
Its tripping the reset switch again.
After I changed thermostat it was working fine for 3 days and then tripped, another 3 days and tripped and now is heating full tank up to 60C and tripping every time. Any other thoughts? Do you think there is a chance that switch is faulty or more likely will be coil itself.

2011

The stat should switch it off first so either this is faulty or incorrectly connected (unlikely as I gather it worked before) or the cut out switch is faulty.

meercat

harlley wrote: »

Problem is back.
Its tripping the reset switch again.
After I changed thermostat it was working fine for 3 days and then tripped, another 3 days and tripped and now is heating full tank up to 60C and tripping every time. Any other thoughts? Do you think there is a chance that switch is faulty or more likely will be coil itself.

Sometimes another heating source (oil/gas)can trip the overheat reset button too
Turn the temperature down slightly on your boiler to help resolve this

harlley

2011 wrote: »

The stat should switch it off first so either this is faulty or incorrectly connected (unlikely as I gather it worked before) or the cut out switch is faulty.

The stat was changed three weeks ago. Please have a look on the pictures from my first post in rellation to connection.

meercat wrote: »

Sometimes another heating source (oil/gas)can trip the overheat reset button too
Turn the temperature down slightly on your boiler to help resolve this

There is no another source of heating like gas or oil. I did try to turn down temperature but that doesn't work either.

2011

harlley wrote: »

The stat was changed three weeks ago. Please have a look on the pictures from my first post in rellation to connection.

I know, that doesn’t mean it isn’t faulty. Besides it is easy to test. Just see what f it disconnects when the set point is reached.

Bruthal

Some possible reasons for overheat cutout operating...

Secondary heat source heating the water above cutout trip point.

Thermostat set point too high, or is faulty, (causing it to heat the water hotter than the indicated setpoint)

Faulty overheat cutout, and so its tripping at too low a temperature.

Air trapped near top of cylinder so top of immersion overheats. (Unlikely if hot water is flowing from sink taps)

Limescale on the elements, causing overheating of the top of the immersion unit, due to less cooling effect of the water now not in direct contact with the elements and immersion boss.