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Drylining

  • 30-11-2017 5:39pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 359 ✭✭


    Hi..i have box room which neefs to be a nursery next year..however thermostat currentkt reads 14.5 degrees after 2 hours of heating being on..heat goes out faster than it comes in.
    There are 2 external walls (1950s concrete poured) one triple glazed window and new attic insulation overhead).Drylining seems to be only answer(not doing external insulation until extension built in couple of years)...is there a particular type which is better for insulation? Any other tips on what i can do to to keep the heat in better?


Comments

  • Closed Accounts Posts: 4,732 ✭✭✭BarryD2


    Rented a house once with mass concrete walls. It was like a fridge. Why do you need a nursery? If it's a new baby, they'll manage very well with you for a few years and be the happier for it. That'd buy you time to when you can put up external insulation. Then convert to a child's bedroom.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,217 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    Only option here appears to be insulated plasterboard, the thickest you are willing to live with to the loss of space in the room.

    Do it now as you'll be happier with the room finished before the new arrival


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 18,724 ✭✭✭✭_Brian


    I’d agree that the insulated slabs are the way to go.

    Also think about condensation. When the room is better sealed up you could need more ventilation, perhaps there are already trickle vents in the windows ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 96 ✭✭Jim 77


    Standard problem with box rooms in older houses, small volume with two external walls, and usually has the last and least effective radiator in the loop.

    Typically one wall will be blank and the other will have a window with a radiator underneath. It's a piece of cake to dryline the blank wall, just move the skirting board and put up insulated plasterboard, then reposition skirting board after plastering or other surface finishing.
    The other wall is more involved, you need to move the skirting board, the radiator and its associated pipes and support. Also you need to line the window reveal, which depending on the frame may require a different thickness of insulated plasterboard than the rest of the wall, and then possible replacement of the window sill.
    In either case, remember to take the existing vents through the new plaster board lining


    I've added insulated plasterboard to the blank walls on three box rooms, improved the ceiling insulation and the radiators, and all the changes made a huge difference to the room temperatures.

    I've you don't do the wall with the window then you will have to watch for mould on that wall, and if it does occur then just treat regularly as outlined on previous threads.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Chickus wrote: »
    Hi..i have box room which neefs to be a nursery next year..however thermostat currentkt reads 14.5 degrees after 2 hours of heating being on..heat goes out faster than it comes in.
    There are 2 external walls (1950s concrete poured) one triple glazed window and new attic insulation overhead).Drylining seems to be only answer(not doing external insulation until extension built in couple of years)...is there a particular type which is better for insulation? Any other tips on what i can do to to keep the heat in better?

    I'm not sure if this research applies to your case. I was hoping to get away with doing internal insulation but after reading Joseph Little's research it just wasn't the safe option (as an architect advised).


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 606 ✭✭✭famagusta


    Put 62mm insulated slabs on the inside of the two external walls, not a huge job and will make a big difference


  • Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    I'm not sure if this research applies to your case. I was hoping to get away with doing internal insulation but after reading Joseph Little's research it just wasn't the safe option (as an architect advised).

    Where is the cold surface if we dryline?

    A solid wall with insulated plasterboard on the inside.

    Impossible to achieve a continuos vapour barrier. should be warm side of insulation

    Internal Water vapour condenses on the cold surface. Over time Mould forms.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 21 Think tank 1


    I'm thinking of using insulated plasterboard in all the external walls in the house. Where is the best place to buy for price and quality from personal experience. 50mm boards. I'm in Dublin. Thanks.


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