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Removing masonry nails from walls

  • 23-11-2017 10:32am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17


    Hi

    As part of house renovations I've pulled out in built wardrobes and curtain rail frames from block walls. I was able to get some of the many screws and nails out during the process but some have really beaten me.

    In particular there are big long masonry nails driven half way into the walls - any tips on how to get them out without creating a massive crater? So far I've been trying with the head of a small pry bar and hammer claw but they ain't budging..

    Any suggestions?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,598 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    cutting them is the safest way


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 katseye


    What kind of tool would you think is best for cutting? I would need to get it as close to the wall as possible so i can fill and paint over.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,598 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    Mini grinder is what I use


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,501 ✭✭✭BrokenArrows


    I find the best solution when they just wont come out is to bend them quickly from side to side.
    The metal heats up and breaks pretty quickly.
    This however does damage the wall a bit when you're bending from side to side.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,598 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    I find the best solution when they just wont come out is to bend them quickly from side to side.
    The metal heats up and breaks pretty quickly.
    This however does damage the wall a bit when you're bending from side to side.

    that's a bit dangerous . the rest of the nail flies off and could take your eye out/


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 34,216 ✭✭✭✭listermint


    You need a proper prybar / crowbar for these.

    I just removed about 20 nails from a similar wardrobe last night (renovating)

    Each one out in seconds with my Crowbar no messing around no grinding.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 19,102 ✭✭✭✭Del2005


    that's a bit dangerous . the rest of the nail flies off and could take your eye out/

    Use a vice grips, gives better grip for leverage aswell. Sure the safety glasses will protect your eyes.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,598 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    you can that if you want


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 katseye


    yes, I have experienced the flying nail phenomenon ...not fun.

    I'll try some more large crowbar action with the safety specs tonight and then consider the cutting option - just don't have the tools for that at the moment.

    thanks folks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,032 ✭✭✭colm_c


    I've used a dremel with a small cutting wheel in the past.

    Safety glasses and gloves required when cutting.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,013 ✭✭✭glaswegian


    katseye wrote: »
    yes, I have experienced the flying nail phenomenon ...not fun.

    I'll try some more large crowbar action with the safety specs tonight and then consider the cutting option - just don't have the tools for that at the moment.

    thanks folks.
    place a small peice of timber between the wall and the crowbar to minimise damage and give more leverage to the bar.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 katseye


    Thanks for all the tips guys.
    In the end it was the vice grips that got the rest of the stubborn ones - have no cutting tools - and the brute force crow bar action just wasn't working.

    I clamped the grips onto as low a point as I could, twisted it around a little to create a small hole around the nail, then gripped closer and snapped them.

    So now, I need to figure out how best to seal the tips and fill!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,013 ✭✭✭glaswegian


    katseye wrote: »
    Thanks for all the tips guys.
    In the end it was the vice grips that got the rest of the stubborn ones - have no cutting tools - and the brute force crow bar action just wasn't working.

    I clamped the grips onto as low a point as I could, twisted it around a little to create a small hole around the nail, then gripped closer and snapped them.




    So now, I need to figure out how best to seal the tips and fill!


    What do you mean by "seal the tips"


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 17 katseye


    Well there's bits of broken nail going to be sitting under the surface of the filler/plaster - they will bleed through eventually. At least from living in older houses before I've seen where little pieces of metal under the surface cause little stains on walls.

    - I've seen suggestions of dabbing an oil base paint on them before filling over...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,387 ✭✭✭brokenarms


    katseye wrote: »
    Well there's bits of broken nail going to be sitting under the surface of the filler/plaster - they will bleed through eventually. At least from living in older houses before I've seen where little pieces of metal under the surface cause little stains on walls.

    - I've seen suggestions of dabbing an oil base paint on them before filling over...

    If they are hardned steel masonry nails, they will not rust. Just drive them back into the wall and fill.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 227 ✭✭massey265


    glaswegian wrote:
    place a small peice of timber between the wall and the crowbar to minimise damage and give more leverage to the bar.


    Some times if you hit the nail in a bit it loosens it to make it pull out easier with a block off timber behind the nail bar.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,598 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    massey265 wrote: »
    Some times if you hit the nail in a bit it loosens it to make it pull out easier with a block off timber behind the nail bar.

    that only ever happen to me when I want it to stay in the wall


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