Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

Trying to get my head around some CH issues

  • 20-11-2017 01:07AM
    #1
    JustAMoment121
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 ✭


    We have a straightforward 70s setup with oil-fired central heating. The supply is fed by a tank in the attic - which is now dry and the arm of the tank is tied up. So the system has been gradually running out of water and finally something will be done about it.

    There's also a room in the house that had an old radiator with cold spots replaced with a new one about 5 years ago. After only a few months it got cold spots and eventually completely blocked up.

    The system isn't sealed and is mainly a mid to late 70s build so is there any point in getting the whole system flushed? I don't want the whole thing to be stress tested and sprouting leaks in new places. All the other radiators work fine except for the lack of water in some of the rads.

    My other question: is it just me or are newer radiators made thinner, ending up easier to block? The new one here heated up more quickly than the older one, for the 3 months it worked... How quickly it heats up really isn't that important to me, it'll be the same cost to heat the room in the end.


Comments

  • #2
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,478 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    Newer rads have smaller passageways than the really old ones, but that is unlikely to be your problem. It is more likely that that radiator position is where the sludge gathers.
    If you have fresh water coming into the system (because of a leak, or bad plumbing causing pump-over) then you will have sludge. The new oxygenated water will react with the metals in the system.


  • #3
    JustAMoment121
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 ✭JustAMoment121


    Yeah, in hindsight I would have had the old radiator cleaned out rather than replaced but it's too late for that.

    The central heating itself doesn't have a water supply any more, the tank in the attic has the arm tied up for some reason (don't know why this happened).

    Would you be able to tell me if it's possible to get stainless steel versions of normal enamelled radiators, or even stainless steel pipes? All the older pipework is stainless steel and gunmetal and it seems that connecting steel radiators with copper pipes will lead to some unfortunate (read: corrosive) chemical reactions in the water.

    Last question: for refilling the system without flushing it, what cleaner/protector would be ideal for this kind of a job? I'm reading up on the different brands like ferrox but they sell a wide variety of additives.

    Thanks for all the info so far!


  • #4
    Wearb
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 6,478 Mod ✭✭✭✭Wearb


    JustAMoment121 wrote: »
    Yeah, in hindsight I would have had the old radiator cleaned out rather than replaced but it's too late for that.

    The central heating itself doesn't have a water supply any more, the tank in the attic has the arm tied up for some reason (don't know why this happened).

    Would you be able to tell me if it's possible to get stainless steel versions of normal enamelled radiators, or even stainless steel pipes? All the older pipework is stainless steel and gunmetal and it seems that connecting steel radiators with copper pipes will lead to some unfortunate (read: corrosive) chemical reactions in the water.

    Last question: for refilling the system without flushing it, what cleaner/protector would be ideal for this kind of a job? I'm reading up on the different brands like ferrox but they sell a wide variety of additives.

    Thanks for all the info so far!

    You need to find out why the ball valve is tied up.

    I don't know if SS rads are available, but if they are they would be VERY expensive. Most systems are steel rads and copper pipe with no trouble.

    I don't know of any protector that allows use without a flush of some sort. You shouldn't add it to a dirty system.


  • #5
    JustAMoment121
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 10 ✭JustAMoment121


    Wearb wrote: »
    You need to find out why the ball valve is tied up.

    I don't know if SS rads are available, but if they are they would be VERY expensive. Most systems are steel rads and copper pipe with no trouble.

    I don't know of any protector that allows use without a flush of some sort. You shouldn't add it to a dirty system.

    It's been like that for perhaps 5 years now we think. There were other things changed or removed in the system at different times and if it wasn't the guy who fitted the new rad I mentioned, I don't know who would have done it.

    Seems like only newer systems (<30 years old) have copper in them apart from the hot water tank - the only pipes that ever leaked in our house were the hot and cold water pipes (copper) while the CH ones give no trouble after 40 years.

    But either way we won't be able to manage a full flush of the system right now. It urgently has to have water added to it, and I'd prefer that *something* be added to the water before I introduce fresh oxygenated water into the system, even if it's only to serve through this winter season. I'm hoping for an additive recommendation that will at least help a bit until we can sort out a proper solution


Advertisement