secondary glazing options

DamoKen

Hi, looking to improve sound as well as heat insulation in our house on all the sash windows. House isn't listed but all the same we're not going to replace any original sashes with modern equivalents. All have been refurbished at this stage so draft excluder kits are built in.

Last step is to improve insulation and least impact way I've found is magnetic secondary glazing.

Checked out a few UK based companies, Ecoease & Magneglaz. Both have good reviews.

Also checked an Irish company that supply kits where they cut panels to size and you put them together (https://www.365plastics.ie/eco-secondary-glazing.html). Haven't found any reviews although they come in quite a bit cheaper than the UK companies.

Has anyone used any of the above, in particular the Irish one? Any reviews appreciated!

Cheers

roper1664

DamoKen wrote: »

Hi, looking to improve sound as well as heat insulation in our house on all the sash windows. House isn't listed but all the same we're not going to replace any original sashes with modern equivalents. All have been refurbished at this stage so draft excluder kits are built in.

Last step is to improve insulation and least impact way I've found is magnetic secondary glazing.

Checked out a few UK based companies, Ecoease & Magneglaz. Both have good reviews.

Also checked an Irish company that supply kits where they cut panels to size and you put them together (https://www.365plastics.ie/eco-secondary-glazing.html). Haven't found any reviews although they come in quite a bit cheaper than the UK companies.

Has anyone used any of the above, in particular the Irish one? Any reviews appreciated!

Cheers

Hello, did you go ahead with this, and who did you use? Thanks.

DamoKen

Hi, funnily enough had someone pm last week asking the same. Went with the Irish company I mentioned in my first post. Initially just got one panel to evaluate, was very happy with that so ordered for all my windows. In a very old house so I have additional prep work with raised moulding beads on some sashes, non square frames on others so quite time consuming but worth it.

Makes a big difference in both sound and insulation. Extra bonus is the elimination of condensation. Can easily tell from outside which have been done and which haven't, steamed up windows haven't been done, clear windows have.

roper1664

DamoKen wrote: »

Hi, funnily enough had someone pm last week asking the same. Went with the Irish company I mentioned in my first post. Initially just got one panel to evaluate, was very happy with that so ordered for all my windows. In a very old house so I have additional prep work with raised moulding beads on some sashes, non square frames on others so quite time consuming but worth it.

Makes a big difference in both sound and insulation. Extra bonus is the elimination of condensation. Can easily tell from outside which have been done and which haven't, steamed up windows haven't been done, clear windows have.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.
I also have an old 19th century house. Reducing drafts, outside noise and condensation are my aims. So sounds good.

For the 365 company did you send them the dimensions of each pane needed i.e. the internal measurement of each timber face and add 40mm to the width and height (I hope that makes sense)?

I'm lucky with the sash windows, for most I have a flat relatively level surface with only 2 needing a bit of moulding to make flush. Did you find that the timber surface had to be absolutely Flat for the tape to stick air tight?

DamoKen

roper1664 wrote: »

Thanks for taking the time to reply.
I also have an old 19th century house. Reducing drafts, outside noise and condensation are my aims. So sounds good.

For the 365 company did you send them the dimensions of each pane needed i.e. the internal measurement of each timber face and add 40mm to the width and height (I hope that makes sense)?

I'm lucky with the sash windows, for most I have a flat relatively level surface with only 2 needing a bit of moulding to make flush. Did you find that the timber surface had to be absolutely Flat for the tape to stick air tight?

Yep if the surfaces aren't flat you'll have problems. It's been a process of learning what works and what doesn't but even with a slight cup in the frame (a couple of mill) you'll find although the metallic tape may stick the magnetic tape attached to the panel won't form an airtight seal. Basically the panel is stronger than the magnetic strip, i.e. it can't bend it into the metallic strip. If your windows aren't massive I'd go with the 3mm panels as they're more flexible than the 6mm. I've both (mistake in second order) and find the 3mm seem to provide a more airtight seal, possibly for that reason (just thought of that as I was writing!).

You'll need to examine each side of the frames with a straight edge such as a spirit level. If it rocks the frame is bowed in that area, any gaps underneath indicate cupping. With cupping I've only experienced a few mill difference so have used caulk, for larger gaps I suppose expanding foam would work or pack it with shims and then caulk. When attaching the frame just be careful it doesn't bend your additional homemade frame when it pulls tight. That's how I belatedly discovered one of the original frames on mine was cupped. Was still getting condensation and pressed down all around to see if the panel was in full contact and found a slight give in one area. Removed the panel and put a spirit level against the frame I'd screwed on and found the screws had pulled it into the original slight cupping (my frame was only 20mm square so quite flexible).

40mm to the width and height is correct, just err on the side of caution with your measurements when you have protruding moulding as it can make accurate measurements a pain. i.e. if you think its 1007mm wide go with 1010.

If you have any inset windows where the frame is only around 20mm wide before it meets the wall at right angles measure each side top to bottom and also each side you'll more often than not find a couple of mill difference in each (if they're the original frames) meaning you need a non square cut if you want it flush. I called 365plastics firstly to explain what I wanted and emailed the order afterwards.

One last thing if you've inset frames. If the panel is going to sit flush into the inset, that is covering the whole frame make sure to also measure around the opening (where the inset meets the internal walls). I found in one instance the outer opening was smaller than the frame meaning I couldn't fit the panel. Had to shave off a few mill with a hand plane which was pretty awkward and took a couple of hours.

roper1664

DamoKen wrote: »

Yep if the surfaces aren't flat you'll have problems. It's been a process of learning what works and what doesn't but even with a slight cup in the frame (a couple of mill) you'll find although the metallic tape may stick the magnetic tape attached to the panel won't form an airtight seal. Basically the panel is stronger than the magnetic strip, i.e. it can't bend it into the metallic strip. If your windows aren't massive I'd go with the 3mm panels as they're more flexible than the 6mm. I've both (mistake in second order) and find the 3mm seem to provide a more airtight seal, possibly for that reason (just thought of that as I was writing!).

You'll need to examine each side of the frames with a straight edge such as a spirit level. If it rocks the frame is bowed in that area, any gaps underneath indicate cupping. With cupping I've only experienced a few mill difference so have used caulk, for larger gaps I suppose expanding foam would work or pack it with shims and then caulk. When attaching the frame just be careful it doesn't bend your additional homemade frame when it pulls tight. That's how I belatedly discovered one of the original frames on mine was cupped. Was still getting condensation and pressed down all around to see if the panel was in full contact and found a slight give in one area. Removed the panel and put a spirit level against the frame I'd screwed on and found the screws had pulled it into the original slight cupping (my frame was only 20mm square so quite flexible).

40mm to the width and height is correct, just err on the side of caution with your measurements when you have protruding moulding as it can make accurate measurements a pain. i.e. if you think its 1007mm wide go with 1010.

If you have any inset windows where the frame is only around 20mm wide before it meets the wall at right angles measure each side top to bottom and also each side you'll more often than not find a couple of mill difference in each (if they're the original frames) meaning you need a non square cut if you want it flush. I called 365plastics firstly to explain what I wanted and emailed the order afterwards.

One last thing if you've inset frames. If the panel is going to sit flush into the inset, that is covering the whole frame make sure to also measure around the opening (where the inset meets the internal walls). I found in one instance the outer opening was smaller than the frame meaning I couldn't fit the panel. Had to shave off a few mill with a hand plane which was pretty awkward and took a couple of hours.

Thanks for all of that information.

I'll check for level surfaces before I place the order. Even if the wood is level, I think the paint finish isn't.

There are wide flat wooden panels to the sides and above each window (and the entire unit is recessed with angled stone reveals on the inside), so I'll probably attach the panes to these wooden panels.

DamoKen

roper1664 wrote: »

Thanks for all of that information.

I'll check for level surfaces before I place the order. Even if the wood is level, I think the paint finish isn't.

There are wide flat wooden panels to the sides and above each window (and the entire unit is recessed with angled stone reveals on the inside), so I'll probably attach the panes to these wooden panels.

Found the same with the paint finish. Another thing with a gloss finish is it can reduce the effectiveness of the metallic strip bonding with the frame. Much more effective against unfinished planed/sanded wood but if you are attaching to a glossed finish give it a good clean with white spirits firstly and when in position go over it firmly with a roller a few times.

stiofan85

My Mrs. was renting in Galway for a year and the window in her room was terrible for draughts, wind blowing through from the harbour and generally just freezing. I threw together a pretty basic type of double glazing with a sheet of perspex and some Velcro strips. Worked wonders. I couldn't get over the difference. So if you can get decent versions installed I'd say you'll notice a big difference. Good luck!