FUT 18 mass trading list

Guffy

Might be an idea to have these guys in the one spot. Gona list three that I've seen mentioned on the main thread.

William Carvalho buy for 650-750 sell for 1100-1300bin
Gonalons buy for 600-800 sell for 1,000 bin
lichtsteiner buy for 800-1200 sell for 1800-2000 bin

Lord TSC

One piece of advice, lads.

The more people use the same card, the harder it is to use this technique. I'm all for sharing trading tips and such, but be careful that putting individual card name should out there doesn't make life harder on yourselves....

Not, mind, that this board is big enough for that to become an issue quickly, but down the line it might.

Guffy

Lord TSC wrote: »

One piece of advice, lads.

The more people use the same card, the harder it is to use this technique. I'm all for sharing trading tips and such, but be careful that putting individual card name should out there doesn't make life harder on yourselves....

Not, mind, that this board is big enough for that to become an issue quickly, but down the line it might.

True enough. Any idea on how best to spot players or is it a case of keeping an eye on sbc or guessing future sbc's?

Lord TSC

Guffy wrote: »

True enough. Any idea on how best to spot players or is it a case of keeping an eye on sbc or guessing future sbc's?

Tend to ignore SBCs and the likes tbh. Its way too unpredictable for me.

Basically, its just experience. Find a cheap player from a popular team or league, or has good stats. I did a load of Carricks in the early weeks.

Shanee.

Ive never really figured this aspect of UT out and have never really made money selling players. Would greatly appreciate someone going into a bit of detail on how to properly trade coins/players

v3ttel

Can someone explain to me like I'm five how the IF trading works - I think you've had success with that Lord TSC? I see that people make a lot of profit from it but I'm not sure how it works.

Is the basic premise to buy an IF for cheap when they are first in packs, and then hope they rise as soon as they are out of packs, or is it quicker than that? Any tips for identifying who would rise in price (or drop)? I've been trading consumables before and you make micro profits on cards, but it's a grind and made more difficult by the webapp this year.

Lord TSC

v3ttel wrote: »

Can someone explain to me like I'm five how the IF trading works - I think you've had success with that Lord TSC? I see that people make a lot of profit from it but I'm not sure how it works.

Had a tonne of success with it in 15 and 16. Not so much in 17 where it was very slow, but it's working well so far in 18. I had 100k after buying the packs at the start of the game, and I worked out today that if everything sells for the price I'm after, I'll be up to 1m coins I'll do a quick run down on IF trading because it actually benefits me if more people are doing it, since that drives up prices once the cards go out of packs.

The idea of IF trading is basically the same as most others, except it requires a higher amount of coins starting off. Buy loads of a single card, jack up the price, and mass list over and over. You're preying on lazy people who don't check for the cheapest prices, but just grab what they think are the right price. If you've got 15 of a card on the market, and someone just checks a page that happens to have 10 of your card, they won't check further and just think it's the going price.

So, in Week 1, I grabbed 20 IF Jaoquins at 10k each. The joys of paying 10k for an IF is they discard for 9900 coins. So if the card doesn't sell, quick sell it to get all your coins back instantly. And 10k is the absolutely minimum price they can sell for as its the lowest BIN price. So "Discard IFs" are practically foolproof.

I listed them all up at 17-19k, and so far have 18 of the 20 sold, basically turning my initial investment of 200k into about 360k, which I've invested into other IF cards. That 10k => 17k is what I aim for in most of my sales.

Its not necessarily about waiting for the cards value to rise naturally, though thats an added bonus if it does (I've got about 2 dozen cards bought for 10k that I could sell now for 13-14k instantly cause their prices have risen since they've left packs). Its about taking advantage (and I know that sounds sleezey) of lazy people. You flood the market with your cards, and the more you have, the better. You want around 10 of a card, minimum, to make the method work. If one sells, you can replace it cheap and keep stock levels up.

It doesn't work with every card. I try to stick to either attackers or high rated players. IF Jaoquin was a Spanish League winger, and being in TOTW 1, was one of the best attackers from the league. I avoid utterly any players from lower leagues (there's a reason players from the German 2nd Division or Japanese leagues go for discard; no one wants them). Sometimes, I'll try players like IF Lochia, cause his stats make him a super sub, but rule of thumb is Attackers from Good Leagues.

You can go with high overall ratings too; I've got a few Valbuenas and Brahimi cards that I got for 10k. They are both 84 rated, so if an SBC comes out that needs high rated IFs, they will instantly jump to round 30k each. But I've still sold some of both already at 20k.

Final thing...I'm relisting my cards 10 times a day. I have the app on my phone so once an hour, I click on and hit "relist all". You might get 0 sales a day, you might get 10. Its hit and miss, but requires way less attention than other methods. The hopes is that one sale might net you 7000 coins, but you have to decide do you want that one sale for 7000 coins or 20 sales of lower margin cards for the same amount. This is so important cause some people try trading for 2 or 3 cycles and then give up. To get the big coinage, you need to be renewing your listings hourly.

Trigger

Lord TSC wrote: »

Had a tonne of success with it in 15 and 16. Not so much in 17 where it was very slow, but it's working well so far in 18. I had 100k after buying the packs at the start of the game, and I worked out today that if everything sells for the price I'm after, I'll be up to 1m coins I'll do a quick run down on IF trading because it actually benefits me if more people are doing it, since that drives up prices once the cards go out of packs.

The idea of IF trading is basically the same as most others, except it requires a higher amount of coins starting off. Buy loads of a single card, jack up the price, and mass list over and over. You're preying on lazy people who don't check for the cheapest prices, but just grab what they think are the right price. If you've got 15 of a card on the market, and someone just checks a page that happens to have 10 of your card, they won't check further and just think it's the going price.

So, in Week 1, I grabbed 20 IF Jaoquins at 10k each. The joys of paying 10k for an IF is they discard for 9900 coins. So if the card doesn't sell, quick sell it to get all your coins back instantly. And 10k is the absolutely minimum price they can sell for as its the lowest BIN price. So "Discard IFs" are practically foolproof.

I listed them all up at 17-19k, and so far have 18 of the 20 sold, basically turning my initial investment of 200k into about 360k, which I've invested into other IF cards. That 10k => 17k is what I aim for in most of my sales.

Its not necessarily about waiting for the cards value to rise naturally, though thats an added bonus if it does (I've got about 2 dozen cards bought for 10k that I could sell now for 13-14k instantly cause their prices have risen since they've left packs). Its about taking advantage (and I know that sounds sleezey) of lazy people. You flood the market with your cards, and the more you have, the better. You want around 10 of a card, minimum, to make the method work. If one sells, you can replace it cheap and keep stock levels up.

It doesn't work with every card. I try to stick to either attackers or high rated players. IF Jaoquin was a Spanish League winger, and being in TOTW 1, was one of the best attackers from the league. I avoid utterly any players from lower leagues (there's a reason players from the German 2nd Division or Japanese leagues go for discard; no one wants them). Sometimes, I'll try players like IF Lochia, cause his stats make him a super sub, but rule of thumb is Attackers from Good Leagues.

You can go with high overall ratings too; I've got a few Valbuenas and Brahimi cards that I got for 10k. They are both 84 rated, so if an SBC comes out that needs high rated IFs, they will instantly jump to round 30k each. But I've still sold some of both already at 20k.

Final thing...I'm relisting my cards 10 times a day. I have the app on my phone so once an hour, I click on and hit "relist all". You might get 0 sales a day, you might get 10. Its hit and miss, but requires way less attention than other methods. The hopes is that one sale might net you 7000 coins, but you have to decide do you want that one sale for 7000 coins or 20 sales of lower margin cards for the same amount. This is so important cause some people try trading for 2 or 3 cycles and then give up. To get the big coinage, you need to be renewing your listings hourly.

Basically the exact same way I trade with lower cards, might try this out this year if I get a few coins.. won't be buying points or packs this year so gotta do it the slow way

Lord TSC

astradave wrote: »

Basically the exact same way I trade with lower cards, might try this out this year if I get a few coins.. won't be buying points or packs this year so gotta do it the slow way

Yeah, same theory, the only real difference is e cards leave packs in this method. With lower cards, they are always in packs so their values will decrease instead of increase, like IFs

Of course, IFs can drop in value if a second IF comes out....but that's when the fun begins cause you just list the IFs up at the same price as the 2IF and trick people that way :pac:

Trigger

Are the consumable mass trade working this year? Haven't really tried much at all as only picked it up yesterday

Paully D

This is probably common knowledge, but a good tip I've found in my limited time mass trading is not to mass bid on numerous cards in a row.

For example, the price of Lichsteiner has gone up a bit now so you're looking at around 1,300 to get him and then sell him off at 1,900-2,000 BIN, so still a nice profit per card.

However, if someone sees you've bid for many in a row, they're likely to realise what's going on, come in at anywhere up to say 1,700 using the above example, and take the lower profit margin when selling.

I find it best to bid on one or two, skip a few, and so on. I find I get outbid around 70% of the time anyway.

v3ttel

astradave wrote: »

Are the consumable mass trade working this year? Haven't really tried much at all as only picked it up yesterday

It's super slow at the moment, but I'm hoping that's because everyone was opening packs. There was over 4m cards listed for trades at various times in the last few days. Normally it's between 1.1m and 1.5m unless a crash is happening. I've had a rake of cycles where I sell nothing at all.

I'm hoping things will pick up once the weekend league starts and that there won't be mass packing openings until Black Friday

v3ttel

Paully D wrote: »

This is probably common knowledge, but a good tip I've found in my limited time mass trading is not to mass bid on numerous cards in a row.

For example, the price of Lichsteiner has gone up a bit now so you're looking at around 1,300 to get him and then sell him off at 1,900-2,000 BIN, so still a nice profit per card.

However, if someone sees you've bid for many in a row, they're likely to realise what's going on, come in at anywhere up to say 1,700 using the above example, and take the lower profit margin when selling.

I find it best to bid on one or two, skip a few, and so on. I find I get outbid around 70% of the time anyway.

Yeah, good call.

I think if you are mass buying cards, it's always better to skip some. If you bid on like 150 cards in a row of the same player/item, then you are artificially raising the price for yourself.

It's best to leave a gap so people who just happen to be looking for that item, and other traders, aren't all tripping over each other to get in your way. It might end up taking 5 or 10 mins longer, but you should get more cards for a lower price than if you artificially drive up the price yourself.

Guffy

Does a player gettin an IF or totw card affect their base card price?

Lord TSC

Guffy wrote: »

Does a player gettin an IF or totw card affect their base card price?

During the week the IF is in packs, yes, the base cards go up in price, since you can't pack them.

There are people who make their coins by predicting IF cards and mass buying their base cards in preparation from them leaving packs for a week. But to really do that, you have to buy them as soon as, if not before, they have their great game, cause the second it becomes obvious a player is an IF contender, their price whooshes up.

duffman13

v3ttel wrote: »

Yeah, good call.

I think if you are mass buying cards, it's always better to skip some. If you bid on like 150 cards in a row of the same player/item, then you are artificially raising the price for yourself.

It's best to leave a gap so people who just happen to be looking for that item, and other traders, aren't all tripping over each other to get in your way. It might end up taking 5 or 10 mins longer, but you should get more cards for a lower price than if you artificially drive up the price yourself.

The only thing I'll say and it's a tip that's worked for me is if you have multiples of one card on the market and they've been listed for 57 mins then I'd bid on every card to a point, then let others artificially inflate the price a bit more than if you weren't bidding. It means your cards with slightly higher BIN price becomes more attractive.

For example I usually by cards for 750 and relist with a BIN of 1300. In the last three mins or so of the auction I may bid up to 850 or 900 particularly if there are a lot of cheap cards listed. This then makes your cards more appealing and move quicker.