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TM120 Range command - no reverse and no power when in rabitt splitter

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  • 27-09-2017 10:30am
    #1
    Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭


    Our TM120 will not reverse unless its in A1 and reved up and at that its extremely slow. Also it wont drive when in top gear at 32KPH and you hit the rabitt/Hare button. If you do it just looses power. Any ideas? 
    ive checked the connectors and they all seem fine. Theres no warning lights on either.


Comments

  • Registered Users Posts: 168 ✭✭mad-for-tar


    Range Command or Dual Command transmission is it? If it is only hi-lo splitter on the button, sounds like an issue with low clutch pack. I have to look but I think they can be calibrated, I've always tried calibration after reading fault codes, if it cops out at any particular point, usually indicates an issue with that particular clutch. Pressure testing clutches can also show if there is piston seal leakage but if pressure is relatively ok, can be a pack fault. Other than this it's a solenoid or speed sensor or something similar but without knowing which transmission you have, can't tell a lot moe at this point.


  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭DirtyDiesels


    Sorry its a Dual Power classic.


  • Registered Users Posts: 168 ✭✭mad-for-tar


    On the Dual Command, when in forward, either A clutch or B clutch is used when you are in Hare (Hi) or rabbit (Lo) respectively. Only the B clutch is used when in reverse. Based on this, I think you might have an issue with the B clutch or it is slipping excessively (because you have the issue in reverse and in Lo forward splitter) but there is no fault code showing to that extent. To get into general diagnostics menu (or H-Menus's as they are known), you need an adapter with a switch that plugs into one of 2 or 3 connectors under the RH lift control panel, the one next to the worklamp panel. Will be able to pull up fault codes, do basic checks and calibrations using this method. There is a shortcut to enter the calibration menu by pressing both buttons on the lever at the same time and starting the engine, but there is a sequence to be followed to calibrate it. I think you might find by doing this if one calibration value is normal for the A clutch and it fails on the B clutch, then the B clutch is likely at fault. I have swapped also before connector positions for clutches and calibrated again, if the fault then changes to opposite clutch, it's the clutch at fault, if the fault stays the same on calibration, fault has followed the wires and is electrical. Bit difficult to understand until put into practice.
    If you need the calibration procedure, let me know and can PM it to you or how to get into H menus to pull up fault codes etc. Thanks.


  • Registered Users Posts: 191 ✭✭DirtyDiesels


    thanks for thta. makes sense alright. ive a guy coming to look at it tomorrow. ill let you know how i fair out.


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