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Car won't start unless I give it gas (sometimes)

  • 21-09-2017 12:44pm
    #1
    LovelySpuds
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭


    Having an issue with my 00 Honda Civic 1.4. Car was starting no problem up until a few days ago when I turned the key and heard the starter trying to turn over. Tried starting it with the accelerator pedal fully engaged and started fine. Now it's taking longer to start with the accelerator engaged, if it will even start at all. My thinking was the IAC valve could need cleaning but was just looking for other opinions as I'm no mechanic. Thanks in advance!


Comments

  • #2
    biko
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Clean throttlebody and see if that helps


  • #3
    Cee-Jay-Cee
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,235 ✭✭✭✭Cee-Jay-Cee


    When was the last time the plugs were changed or the car serviced?


  • #4
    LovelySpuds
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 170 ✭✭LovelySpuds


    Cee-Jay-Cee wrote:
    When was the last time the plugs were changed or the car serviced?


    Only recently bought it as a cheap runaround. Had a years NCT but no real service history so not too sure.


  • #5
    case_sensitive
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 853 ✭✭✭case_sensitive


    madforthebike wrote: »
    Having an issue with my 00 Honda Civic 1.4. Car was starting no problem up until a few days ago when I turned the key and heard the starter trying to turn over. Tried starting it with the accelerator pedal fully engaged and started fine. Now it's taking longer to start with the accelerator engaged, if it will even start at all. My thinking was the IAC valve could need cleaning but was just looking for other opinions as I'm no mechanic. Thanks in advance!

    At start up the car needs both a little air, which it gets from the Idle Air Control valve (unless your car has independent throttle bodies, which a cheap runabout won't), and extra fuel, depending on the coolant temperature.
    The most obvious thing to check is the IAC, and it would be worth ensuring that the ECU is getting an accurate coolant temperature reading. Also, sounds silly, but if there's no coolant around the CLT, the temperature is likely to be inaccurate too!

    The clt can be tested easily and cheaply if you have a multimeter, take it out, measure its resistance in room temperature air, then stick it in a mug of recently boiled water, it'll change rapidly.
    For a deep-dive on how and the maths etc, have a look at the first few pages of my project build
    https://motorsport-electronics.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=800
    but if you're not curious, maybe don't frighten yourself :-)

    The IACV is far more likely culprit, but testing it depends heavily on how it's constructed. If it has obvious bleed hole(s), get the car started and up to temp, then block them with the car idling. It'll cough, splutter and die. If it doesn't, you probably have an intake leak.
    To test it, manually actuate the valve with a direct supply from the battery, you may be able to hear it open. Taking it off the car, and looking into it as you repeat this test (perhaps sucking on one end) should confirm this.
    Best of luck!


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