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Immersion timer 9 wires

  • 20-09-2017 9:17pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5


    Old immersion timer broke, bought a replacement and uncertain of the wiring, as there are 2 live wires, 2 neutral, and 2 earth wires as the feed and then another live neutral and earth running to the immersion switch


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    X00069428 wrote: »
    Old immersion timer broke, bought a replacement and uncertain of the wiring, as there are 2 live wires, 2 neutral, and 2 earth wires as the feed and then another live neutral and earth running to the immersion switch


    The wires for the feed are the power for the timer and need to be joined together and connected to the appropriate terminals.
    The wires to the immersion need to be connected to the output terminals of the timer.

    Is there only one element in the immersion?
    Can you post a picture of the timer showing the terminals or give the made and model?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 X00069428


    I could not post the images because the site wouldn't let me, sorry.

    The old timer was a 16A "flash immerat" I think, with 4 ports L-in N-in L-out N-out.
    The new timer is a homebase own brand digital 13A 240V 50hz, it has 5 ports L-in N-in Earth N-out SL-out
    The immersion is a dual immersion 2kw boost element and 2.8kw bulk element.
    The old timer has been fitted before the on/off/bath/sink switch.
    The wiring in the house seems questionable at best and from what I understandle is done very badly. So I was apprehensive about using a different timer in case it's not sufficient.

    Thanks for the reply.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    X00069428 wrote: »
    I could not post the images because the site wouldn't let me, sorry.

    The old timer was a 16A "flash immerat" I think, with 4 ports L-in N-in L-out N-out.
    The new timer is a homebase own brand digital 13A 240V 50hz, it has 5 ports L-in N-in Earth N-out SL-out
    The immersion is a dual immersion 2kw boost element and 2.8kw bulk element.
    The old timer has been fitted before the on/off/bath/sink switch.
    The wiring in the house seems questionable at best and from what I understandle is done very badly. So I was apprehensive about using a different timer in case it's not sufficient.

    Thanks for the reply.

    Do you know what else is on the circuit with it? The fact that there are 2 feeds means there is something else on the circuit. The bigger element will draw around 11 amps so just something to be wary of if its on a socket circuit with other appliances in use at the same time.

    Just connect the feeds to L in and N in and the supply to the immersion switch to N out and SL out(switched live I presume) and all of the earths to the earth terminal.

    Putting the timer before the on/off/bath/sink switch is the correct way to do it.

    The timer should be fine to use regardless of how the rest house is wired(unless it's a complete shambles).


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5 X00069428


    I switched off the power at the fuse board and wasn't able to find anything besides the immersion that was effected, so I'm uncertain what else is on the circuit. Would it be possible that they used a cable that wasn't thick enough so they doubled it up to compensate?? Is there anyway to test it with a multimeter to ensure 13A timer is gonna be sufficient.

    Thanks again for the response.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    X00069428 wrote: »
    I switched off the power at the fuse board and wasn't able to find anything besides the immersion that was effected, so I'm uncertain what else is on the circuit. Would it be possible that they used a cable that wasn't thick enough so they doubled it up to compensate?? Is there anyway to test it with a multimeter to ensure 13A timer is gonna be sufficient.

    Thanks again for the response.

    It possible, but unlikely that the electrician doubled up on the cable. It's more likely that there is something else on the circuit. Do you know what the circuit is mark as at the board?
    There is a way to test it but ideally you would need a clamp multimeter. There is another way to do it but it involves breaking the circuit and it's not really safe to do so unless you know what you are doing.

    Only one of the elements will be in use at any one time. The current drawn by the 2.8Kw element(bath) will be 11.66amps* so the 13A timer should be sufficient.

    * watts = volts X amps
    watts/volts = amps
    2800 watts/240 volts = 11.66amps


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 894 ✭✭✭xl500


    aido79 wrote: »
    It possible, but unlikely that the electrician doubled up on the cable. It's more likely that there is something else on the circuit. Do you know what the circuit is mark as at the board?
    There is a way to test it but ideally you would need a clamp multimeter. There is another way to do it but it involves breaking the circuit and it's not really safe to do so unless you know what you are doing.

    Only one of the elements will be in use at any one time. The current drawn by the 2.8Kw element(bath) will be 11.66amps* so the 13A timer should be sufficient.

    * watts = volts X amps
    watts/volts = amps
    2800 watts/240 volts = 11.66amps

    Ireland Domestic Voltage is 230V so its actually 12.1 amps


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