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Controlling fermentation temperature

  • 20-09-2017 3:26pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,488 ✭✭✭


    I recently purchased one of these:

    http://makeyourowndrinks.co.uk/the_pouch.asp

    and I am concerned that the spare room it will live in is too cold (16 to 18 degrees) as the pack says 20 to 25 is optimum. I was planning on purchasing a brew band, something like this:

    https://www.homebrew.ie/products/brew-belt-heater

    I was wondering though if this will just heat the fermenter or will it control to a specific temperature? Or if anyone else knows a better product I'd happily check it out.


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,278 ✭✭✭mordeith


    kingtut wrote: »
    I recently purchased one of these:

    http://makeyourowndrinks.co.uk/the_pouch.asp

    and I am concerned that the spare room it will live in is too cold (16 to 18 degrees) as the pack says 20 to 25 is optimum. I was planning on purchasing a brew band, something like this:

    https://www.homebrew.ie/products/brew-belt-heater

    I was wondering though if this will just heat the fermenter or will it control to a specific temperature? Or if anyone else knows a better product I'd happily check it out.

    They are really pushing the marketing with the 'dual pouch' malarky. It's just a different way on packaging the tinned stuff. Anyway, I wouldn't be overly concerned with the temp in your room. It just means fermentation will take longer. You'd be better off buying a hydrometer and just waiting until you get stable readings. The main thing is that for the initial 24 hours or so you have the beer warm enough to get the fermentation going in the first place. I've brewed beer in the kitchen during winter and the heating isn't exactly sweltering.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 32,386 ✭✭✭✭rubadub


    The room sounds fine, if I had the choice of either range I would be brewing in the 16-18C room. I have put a jumper on fermenters since while brewing they generate their own heat and it helps keep the warmth in.

    I think some say to go higher so you have a quicker ferment which I guess they think is attractive to customers.

    The belt has no thermostatic control. It wraps around the fermenter and gives out a constant heat (not a constant temperature). So if your room is already warm the brew will get a lot warmer. The way you control temp with it is to move it up or down the fermenter, and check your temp the next day. If too cold move the belt down further.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,488 ✭✭✭kingtut


    mordeith wrote: »
    They are really pushing the marketing with the 'dual pouch' malarky. It's just a different way on packaging the tinned stuff. Anyway, I wouldn't be overly concerned with the temp in your room. It just means fermentation will take longer. You'd be better off buying a hydrometer and just waiting until you get stable readings. The main thing is that for the initial 24 hours or so you have the beer warm enough to get the fermentation going in the first place. I've brewed beer in the kitchen during winter and the heating isn't exactly sweltering.

    Thanks for the tips. It will be my first time brewing with this kit (previously used 'the beer machine' which was an all in one type of system.

    Familiar with the tinned stuff from youtube videos, do you think they produce a better beer than the packet stuff?
    rubadub wrote: »
    The room sounds fine, if I had the choice of either range I would be brewing in the 16-18C room. I have put a jumper on fermenters since while brewing they generate their own heat and it helps keep the warmth in.

    I think some say to go higher so you have a quicker ferment which I guess they think is attractive to customers.

    The belt has no thermostatic control. It wraps around the fermenter and gives out a constant heat (not a constant temperature). So if your room is already warm the brew will get a lot warmer. The way you control temp with it is to move it up or down the fermenter, and check your temp the next day. If too cold move the belt down further.

    Might buy a band as a back up but sounds like I would be unlikely to use it! How long do you think fermentation might take at 16 - 18 degrees? Might fill up the fermenter with water and let it sit for a few days while I see how it does temperature wise from time to time.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 15,116 ✭✭✭✭RasTa


    Don't waste your money. My room is usually 18 in the winter and it's fine. I heard those mangrove jack kits are nice. Just don't pick the larger when home brewing without temp control


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 32,386 ✭✭✭✭rubadub


    kingtut wrote: »
    Might buy a band as a back up but sounds like I would be unlikely to use it! How long do you think fermentation might take at 16 - 18 degrees? Might fill up the fermenter with water and let it sit for a few days while I see how it does temperature wise from time to time.
    I wouldn't bother getting a belt. As mordeith was saying, the start is important, then the yeast multiples a huge amount in that time and is well established.

    The water trick will not take into account the heat generated by the brewing which I spoke about. When using "turbo yeasts" some people in hot countries have to dump frozen 2L coke bottles of water into the brew to cool it down, as it creates so much heat. These are brewing really fast though.

    I brewed in a metal coal bunker once with lots of jumpers on it for insulation.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,488 ✭✭✭kingtut


    RasTa wrote: »
    Don't waste your money. My room is usually 18 in the winter and it's fine. I heard those mangrove jack kits are nice. Just don't pick the larger when home brewing without temp control

    I went for the IPA :)
    rubadub wrote: »
    I wouldn't bother getting a belt. As mordeith was saying, the start is important, then the yeast multiples a huge amount in that time and is well established.

    The water trick will not take into account the heat generated by the brewing which I spoke about. When using "turbo yeasts" some people in hot countries have to dump frozen 2L coke bottles of water into the brew to cool it down, as it creates so much heat. These are brewing really fast though.

    I brewed in a metal coal bunker once with lots of jumpers on it for insulation.

    Perfect thanks for the tips. I'll more than likely kick off the brew this weekend, fingers crossed it goes well! I work away from home Monday to Friday so I'll have to come up with a way of monitoring it remotely lol


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,278 ✭✭✭mordeith


    kingtut wrote: »
    I went for the IPA :)



    Perfect thanks for the tips. I'll more than likely kick off the brew this weekend, fingers crossed it goes well! I work away from home Monday to Friday so I'll have to come up with a way of monitoring it remotely lol

    If you start on it on a Saturday / Sunday you'll get away with leaving it until the next weekend to check. You'd be looking at more than a week to ferment fully at the lower end (temp wise).

    I can't see there would be any difference between the pouch and tins. Just a different way of packaging


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