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Guide rail for circular saw

  • 25-08-2017 10:30am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭


    I was thinking of getting one of these Wolfcraft track saw adapters for my Makita circular saw. I'd love a proper track/plunge saw but the budget just won't allow it at the moment.

    I'm fitting a new kitchen from Ikea shortly as well as fitting out a study with desk and other furniture made with birch ply.

    Has anyone any feedback on what this is like to use?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    So, no one uses one of these things?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 477 ✭✭blackbird99


    it will never cut as clean or efficiently as a plunge saw. i have the makita version can't fault it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    Thanks for the reply. I'd love to be able to get the Makita version but the budget just isn't there at the moment. Need to upgrade my table saw as well as get a few other bits. Adapting my regular circular saw seems the best option. Just wanted some real world opinions on whether it's a total waste or decent enough.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    personally I would build a timber rail .
    its what I did before I got a real track saw.
    get some good birch ply and rip a strip10 " wide. glue and screw a 2" strip down the middle . run the saw along it to cut the bottom sheet to the width of the offset


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 559 ✭✭✭G-Man


    >> personally I would build a timber rail . 
    >> its what I did before I got a real track saw. 
    Great idea - but why did you upgrade eventually, is there some shortcomings to your timber method. 


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    the wooden rail will only stop the saw moving towards the rail and not stop it going away from it. you had to keep pressure towards the rail
    you have to clamp the wooden rail and I very seldom clamp the proper rails
    the wooden rails will warp and twist
    the wooden ones are heavy
    you cant join the wooden ones
    don't look as good as proper track saw

    but it is a lot cheaper than buying a proper one


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 114 ✭✭mashed13


    the wooden rail will only stop the saw moving towards the rail and not stop it going away from it. you had to keep pressure towards the rail
    you have to clamp the wooden rail and I very seldom clamp the proper rails
    the wooden rails will warp and twist
    the wooden ones are heavy
    you cant join the wooden ones
    don't look as good as proper track saw

    but it is a lot cheaper than buying a proper one

    I do plan to build one myself, would you have any plans or pictures for the one you made ?

    Thanks


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    mashed13 wrote: »
    I do plan to build one myself, would you have any plans or pictures for the one you made ?

    Thanks

    not really. its long gone to the scrap bin
    here is a link to one similar
    http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/tools/reviews/a3602/4283497/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    Just a quick follow on from this earlier post. I'm buying a Dewalt DW745 table saw. I seem to be having difficulty choosing blade to go with it.
    Can anyone advise on a 60 tooth blade for this saw? Something to give a clean edge when cutting birch plywood for a desk and shelves I'm making but also to cut Ikea veneered filler panel and kick boards.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    that is a great saw. I have the older model with the separate wheel base. it has loads of power and the dust extraction is very good . most goes out the port at the bottom. great with a good vac. I have cut 2" hardwood no problem
    as for the blade I have only used the dealt ones in it. I don't use it for fine work. I have other saws for that.
    any good tool shop should have a premium blade that will fit it.
    where are you getting it


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    I'm getting it from a place up north called Ray Grahams. I'm vat registered so they take the vat off at source which is handy.
    There seems to be a lot of different blades available so want to make sure I get the right type.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    that's a great price. . I would be carefull that its not a mistake. all the rest are selling around that ex vat. even the big hitters in the uk are around that in sterling plus vat. except ffx for some reason. they are at 409 inc sterling


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    Cost me £464.15 for the table saw and the Dewalt DWE6005 palm router. Both 230V
    I opened up my jigsaw today for the first time in a couple of years and I'd forgotten it was 110v. Such a pain to have to deal with a traffo.
    I don't work on sites anymore so no need for 110v.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    great deal.
    transformers are a pain.
    only way around it to wire in a sockets from it. great job. on buy a cordless


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    So to finish the last project I ended up making a timber rail guide that didn't work so well. I then switched to just doing it by hand/eye following a chalk line.

    But now I've finally got a plunge saw and can honestly say it's the best tool I've ever bought. I needed to cut a piece of timber greater than the 55mm cut depth. Cut one side, flipped it over and cut the other and they perfectly match up. It's so accurate, and the cuts are so clean.

    xTnR04f.jpg

    nhIFLQd.png


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