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Inset stove.

  • 21-08-2017 7:28pm
    #1
    tom1ie
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,270 ✭✭✭✭


    Hi all. I had an inset stove put into my fireplace about 3 years ago. I was never happy with the job, its off level and its sitting on a vermiculite board to allow the door clear the lip on the concrete, tiled, hearth. Anyway I want to knock the fireplace, mantle and hearth. I'd like the inset stove to be flush with the chimney breast and sitting on a natural slate hearth.
    When I break out the fireplace Ill have to make the hole good to suit the stove and give a clean finish. Can I use fireboard or cement board for this? Someone suggested regular bonding and then a skim with added cement?
    Thanks for the help.


Comments

  • #2
    BryanF
    Moderators, Home & Garden Moderators Posts: 10,146 Mod ✭✭✭✭BryanF


    Promat supalux

    Read the data sheet 'backing' support requirements .


  • #3
    antiskeptic
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,555 ✭✭✭antiskeptic


    tom1ie wrote: »
    Hi all. I had an inset stove put into my fireplace about 3 years ago. I was never happy with the job, its off level and its sitting on a vermiculite board to allow the door clear the lip on the concrete, tiled, hearth. Anyway I want to knock the fireplace, mantle and hearth. I'd like the inset stove to be flush with the chimney breast and sitting on a natural slate hearth.
    When I break out the fireplace Ill have to make the hole good to suit the stove and give a clean finish. Can I use fireboard or cement board for this? Someone suggested regular bonding and then a skim with added cement?
    Thanks for the help.

    When you knock the hole your going to have a far bigger hole than the inset stove. Is the inset stove suitable enough to act as a free standing stove?

    Re lining. Having done a similar job recently, the advice was not to bond/plaster or cement render. They'd all crack.

    Would the bricks the chimney is (presumably) constructed from not suffice? They weren't in my case: dirty and smelly. But if good enough, you might be able to repoint and smell block with some BIN smell sealer

    You can get a vermiculite board with a brick looking finish apparently. You'd need advice on how to bond it to the wall.

    I used brick slips myself to line the dirty brick chimney structure- 20mm or so thick slices from real brick stuck over the existing brick and pointed.

    I tiled my based (the concrete original base to the fireplace was sound enough to tile onto.

    You've then got a register plate to sort (to close the opening above the stove). In my own case, mild steel 4mm thick which rested on the brick slips (with steel brackets express nailed into the brick, not plastic plugs obviously) overhead to stop it lifting upwards. I'd inserted a concrete head across the chimney (previously the chimney ope was formed with an small arch of bricks) to square it off. I express nailed the register plate onto the underside of the head after sealing with a heat resistant silicone.

    Then the vermiculite chippinging trickle-fed down the chimney to stop them clumping.


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