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Ideas on ways to make wall flush

  • 21-07-2017 10:33am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 50 ✭✭


    I am looking for ideas on what we can do to make this boundary wall flush with the wall it is meeting. It is 50mm out so it is too much to fill with render alone I think.

    Does anyone have any good suggestions on what cost effective materials we could use to fill it and render over?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,873 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    hard to u/stand picture

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    Fix insulated cement board of 38-50 mm thickness which ever suits to the wall and sand and cement that
    Or else batten the wall fix a rib lath mesh to the batten then render that


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    Just looked at the pic
    Is there not a stop end for that panel or else make up a corner band in render that over laps both surfaces otherwise if its flush it'll crack or else a fancy shadow gap detail that could be more work than its worth


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 50 ✭✭V0X


    Just looked at the pic
    Is there not a stop end for that panel or else make up a corner band in render that over laps both surfaces otherwise if its flush it'll crack or else a fancy shadow gap detail that could be more work than its worth
    There is a shadow gap beading currently.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 50 ✭✭V0X


    hard to u/stand picture

    Maybe this diagram is clearer. We are trying to pad out one side of the wall by approx 50mm so it reads as one clean line. Left is what we have right is what we are looking to achieve.

    @Bozo D: Thanks for the suggestion. Generally how are the insulated cements boards fixed to the existing wall?


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  • Subscribers Posts: 42,170 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    In all seriousness, why bother?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 78,574 ✭✭✭✭Victor


    Is that a boundary wall meeting the corner of a house?

    I'd be tempted to leave it alone, or at most fill it at a 45 degree angle.

    Or add climbing plants to the wall. :)

    422986.png


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 50 ✭✭V0X


    Victor wrote: »
    Is that a boundary wall meeting the corner of a house?

    I'd be tempted to leave it alone, or at most fill it at a 45 degree angle.

    Or add climbing plants to the wall. :)

    422986.png

    Yes, unfortunately I am very particular :pac:

    @ syd It just looks wrong so one way or another I want to fill the wall out. Just need some ideas on how.


  • Subscribers Posts: 42,170 ✭✭✭✭sydthebeat


    V0X wrote: »
    Yes, unfortunately I am very particular :pac:

    @ syd It just looks wrong so one way or another I want to fill the wall out. Just need some ideas on how.

    Well like Victor above, if it's purely aesthetics that's the issue, I'd be more inclined to create a visual divide between the house and wall, evening if it was only 500mm wide outcrop or vegetation growth.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    V0X wrote: »
    Maybe this diagram is clearer. We are trying to pad out one side of the wall by approx 50mm so it reads as one clean line. Left is what we have right is what we are looking to achieve.

    @Bozo D: Thanks for the suggestion. Generally how are the insulated cements boards fixed to the existing wall?
    They could be mushroom fixed to the substrate since its outside I'd be inclined to fix rib lath to the board also using mushroom fixings through both .
    Where the two surfaces meet you'll still have to form an expansion joint using a stop bead and mastic other wise it'll crack.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 50 ✭✭V0X


    They could be mushroom fixed to the substrate since its outside I'd be inclined to fix rib lath to the board also using mushroom fixings through both .
    Where the two surfaces meet you'll still have to form an expansion joint using a stop bead and mastic other wise it'll crack.
    Thanks.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 748 ✭✭✭Johnnyhpipe


    You've little to be worrying about... christ almighty


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    You've little to be worrying about... christ almighty

    The world needs people like Vox . To keep tradesfolk on our toes so that when setting out jobs the finer finish details are been figured out too. Otherwise every one pays big money for poor standards .


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 7,596 ✭✭✭the_pen_turner


    is there a cap on the wall
    how will this look overhanging and stopping at the house


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 950 ✭✭✭Dupont


    Could you fill out the step with a few scratch coats to 25 mm and kango off the plaster or whatever is on the other to 25mm back ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,725 ✭✭✭Metric Tensor


    There will have to be some sort of cap/lip otherwise you'll destroy the front of the wall and it will look crap. So you are going to have a somewhat untidy detail were this lip meets the house wall that you will just have to be prepared for.

    Cheap way: A shrub in a pot which has the bonus of hiding the end of the lip too!

    Expensive way: Fibre cement board and render- that is assuming the substrate can handle it. I can't really figure out from the picture what the existing garden wall is made from. It looks like some type of slab?

    Whatever you do don't tell the neighbours what you're at or you'll forever be the guy who spent 5 grand* to move a garden wall 2 inches!

    (* Made up figure - I've no idea how much it would cost. What length of wall are we talking about?)

    P.S. - I feel your pain. I hate to see that sort of thing but even though it would annoy me every day I don't think I could justify the expense of fixing it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,725 ✭✭✭Metric Tensor


    Also - as per above - don't forget a movement joint between the two or you'll have crack.


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 390 ✭✭tradesman


    Is this a new house?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,968 ✭✭✭blindside88


    is there a cap on the wall
    how will this look overhanging and stopping at the house

    This would be my thought as well. Capping to overhang the required distance to bring it flush with the house


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,873 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    sydthebeat wrote: »
    In all seriousness, why bother?

    +1
    No wonder He wept

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    This would be my thought as well. Capping to overhang the required distance to bring it flush with the house

    There could be a rounded rendered capping on it thus leaving the wall flush . Not really suitable to this country though. But not unheard of.
    Hence why i mentioned all these details should of been confirmed prior to starting.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,577 ✭✭✭Bonzo Delaney


    +1
    No wonder He wept

    Surprised at this comment Calahonda I've often done projects for people where ive doubted their reasoning but its their house even if they wanted an inverted cross on their chimney stack id be only concerned how to get up there safely


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 504 ✭✭✭ustari


    Think it looks better as is than it would going flush across.

    You want to separate the lines a bit, don't want an endless flat wall to the eye.


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