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Seized and rounded caliper carrier bolts.

  • 20-07-2017 5:34pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭


    Hi,

    So I went to fit new rear discs and the caliper carrier bolts were seized. I ended up rounding the shizzle out of them.

    :D

    I've tried Irwin bolt grips, vice grips, filed the bolt heads flat to get a smaller socket on them, cold chisel and hammer, heating with cheap blow torch, stilsen, cheap impact gun, nothing will even grip. Even cut a slot in one bolt head and tried with a large flat screwdriver to loosen it.

    Hate taking it to a mechanic and paying through the nose.

    What would happen if I cut the bolt heads off?

    It's a 2004 Megane Estate.

    These are the 2 bolts holding the caliper carrier to the wheel knuckle I think it's called, NOT the part that holds the pads. That came off easily.

    Thanks in advance,

    :)


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,166 ✭✭✭Are Am Eye


    Did you try some pb blaster.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,893 ✭✭✭rex-x


    Those bolts are extremely tight, you will need a seriously good fit to open them. There are special sockets available for the job.

    On a side note on most cars you don't actually need to remove the carriers to change discs, they leave you enough room to get them out :) So many mechanics take them off anyway though out of habit......


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    Are Am Eye wrote: »
    Did you try some pb blaster.

    Hi there, thanks for the tip. No, I haven't tried PB Blaster, but tried WD40 Fast Release Penetrant.

    Main problem is nothing will grip the rounded heads. Everything I've tried just slips off.

    Thinking about it now, I've been using a dremel type grinding wheel to try to get square edges, but cannot due to the grinding disc edge itself rounding. Maybe I should try the cutting disc for more accuracy?

    :(


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    rex-x wrote: »
    Those bolts are extremely tight, you will need a seriously good fit to open them. There are special sockets available for the job.

    On a side not on most cars you don't actually need to remove the carriers to change discs, they leave you enough room to get them out :) So many mechanics take them off anyway though out of habit......

    Yes, getting something to fit tight is the problem. Will try again with a dremel cutting disc to square the bolt head.

    I have the Irwin special spiral fluted sockets.

    I did undo the hub nut but the disc would not pass the carrier. But will have another look and see.

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 38 clement


    Cut the heads off with a cutting disc. They are stretch bolts. Remove the threaded bit on the bench when you have the bracket off. You will need new bolts to reassemble. Wasting your time now no matter what you do without new bolts ready to go.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    clement wrote: »
    Cut the heads off with a cutting disc. They are stretch bolts. Remove the threaded bit on the bench when you have the bracket off. You will need new bolts to reassemble. Wasting your time now no matter what you do without new bolts ready to go.

    Okay. The bolts are M12, 1.25 pitch flanged. They cost 4 or 5 Euro each.

    I'd already bought half a dozen M12 high tensile, 12.9, bolts, same pitch, for a tenner online, and separate high tensile washers. Would they do?

    Thanks.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    ukonline wrote: »
    Okay. The bolts are M12, 1.25 pitch flanged. They cost 4 or 5 Euro each.

    I'd already bought half a dozen M12 high tensile, 12.9, bolts, same pitch, for a tenner online, and separate high tensile washers. Would they do?

    Thanks.

    Probably not!

    https://www.reddit.com/r/Cartalk/comments/2d6ebh/replace_stretch_bolts_with_nonstretch_bolts/


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,002 ✭✭✭dev100


    ukonline wrote:
    It's a 2004 Megane Estate.

    Any pics ?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    dev100 wrote: »
    Any pics ?


    Sorry, no pics. Will take some tomorrow. Since I'm not sure if I can use the bolts I've got, I'll order the Renaults ones if I can find them. So looks like a few days more delay.

    :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,363 ✭✭✭jimbis


    If you ring Renault in the morning they'll have the bolts for you in the afternoon.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭hamburg


    Could you not weld an old nut on top of the ruined bolts and the whip them off? The heat from the welding will probably free up the ruined bolts as a bonus.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 199 ✭✭ukonline


    hamburg wrote: »
    Could you not weld an old nut on top of the ruined bolts and the whip them off? The heat from the welding will probably free up the ruined bolts as a bonus.

    Good idea, but I don't know how to weld.

    :o


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭hamburg


    If the car is driveable,then bring it to someone who can. Probably won't cost more than 10 -20 euro.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭JohnBoy26


    ukonline wrote: »
    Hi,

    So I went to fit new rear discs and the caliper carrier bolts were seized. I ended up rounding the shizzle out of them.

    :D

    I've tried Irwin bolt grips, vice grips, filed the bolt heads flat to get a smaller socket on them, cold chisel and hammer, heating with cheap blow torch, stilsen, cheap impact gun, nothing will even grip. Even cut a slot in one bolt head and tried with a large flat screwdriver to loosen it.

    Hate taking it to a mechanic and paying through the nose.

    What would happen if I cut the bolt heads off?

    It's a 2004 Megane Estate.

    These are the 2 bolts holding the caliper carrier to the wheel knuckle I think it's called, NOT the part that holds the pads. That came off easily.

    Thanks in advance,

    :)
    Except you probably wouldn't pay through the nose for the work you want done from a good independent and you'd have the car back and working by now :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14,909 ✭✭✭✭CJhaughey


    JohnBoy26 wrote: »
    Except you probably wouldn't pay through the nose for the work you want done from a good independent and you'd have the car back and working by now :)

    In the immortal words of Casey Stoner: "Obviously your ambition, outweighed your talent."


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭Autochange


    i would hate to be the guy who has to fix your mess up. I would charge through the nose for it. best of luck


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,881 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    Did you use a 12 point socket or a 6 point socket? If you used a 12 point, chances are a 6 point will work and it's what you should have used in the first place...


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭Autochange


    shietpilot wrote: »
    Did you use a 12 point socket or a 6 point socket? If you used a 12 point, chances are a 6 point will work and it's what you should have used in the first place...

    Good point. another is to put some valve grinding paste into the socket. works a treat


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