Laminate work top with ugly strips

neerb

Hi
I recently had a new kitchen fitted with a laminate worktop - wood effect .

While I like the work top there are black strips used to join the work top . It's looks totally out of place and really cheapens the kitchen. I wasn't aware of this and am very disappointed as a result when I saw the end result .

What can I do at this stage if anything ?

Many thanks in advance

dodzy

neerb wrote: »

Hi
I recently had a new kitchen fitted with a laminate worktop - wood effect .

While I like the work top there are black strips used to join the work top . It's looks totally out of place and really cheapens the kitchen. I wasn't aware of this and am very disappointed as a result when I saw the end result .

What can I do at this stage if anything ?

Many thanks in advance

Nothing unfortunately, aside from removing the counter top and removing/replacing the strips as they would be screwed into the side profile of the counter top.

weldo131

there is no need to have black strips the counter tops should be pushed up flush against each other. they are probably just stick on ones, try remove one and see what's its like without it

neerb

weldo131 wrote: »

there is no need to have black strips the counter tops should be pushed up flush against each other. they are probably just stick on ones, try remove one and see what's its like without it

Many thanks - was chatting to the kitchen and they tell me this is impossible to change even though I wasn't aware of it as they are a professional outfit . I have spent a lot and the kitchen looks so cheap now !

J.R.

If the worktop has a rounded, bullnose edge then it cannot butt up perfectly to another piece of worktop due to this curve.A joining bar is used to cover this curve where they meet and seal the gap.

If you remove the black joining bar - there will be a gap between worktops where water and dirt will get down.

Using a joining bar to join worktops is common to finish a butt joint.

What you probably wanted was a mitre joint....more professional looking but also more time consuming, skilled and more expensive to fit.

Unfortunately, very little can be done now to rectify it.

BUTT FINISH:




MITRE JOINT:

Kristopherus

neerb wrote: »

Many thanks - was chatting to the kitchen and they tell me this is impossible to change even though I wasn't aware of it as they are a professional outfit . I have spent a lot and the kitchen looks so cheap now !

What colour do you want? Can you get woodgrain strips?

dodzy

neerb wrote: »

Many thanks - was chatting to the kitchen and they tell me this is impossible to change even though I wasn't aware of it as they are a professional outfit . I have spent a lot and the kitchen looks so cheap now !

Not impossible, but a lot of work involved. I'm guessing that they have tiled after the counter installation which adds further to the requirement.

peter bermingham

This is the way it should have being done $_86.JPG Can you post a photo of the kitchen it might still be possible to do it this way depending on the way the worktop was fitted

neerb

Kristopherus wrote: »

What colour do you want? Can you get woodgrain strips?

Hi got a walnut work top but the strip is black ? The kitchen co only have black or silver - are there wooden effect ones available ?

neerb

dodzy wrote: »

Not impossible, but a lot of work involved. I'm guessing that they have tiled after the counter installation which adds further to the requirement.

No I don't have any tiling done yet or electrical ?

neerb

peter bermingham wrote: »

This is the way it should have being done $_86.JPG Can you post a photo of the kitchen it might still be possible to do it this way depending on the way the worktop was fitted

Many thanks - that's the way I thought it would be done I took it for granted

neerb

peter bermingham wrote: »

This is the way it should have being done $_86.JPG Can you post a photo of the kitchen it might still be possible to do it this way depending on the way the worktop was fitted

See photo

neerb

peter bermingham wrote: »

This is the way it should have being done $_86.JPG Can you post a photo of the kitchen it might still be possible to do it this way depending on the way the worktop was fitted

Sorry it won't be let me post a pic as The file is too large I'll see if I can reduce

the_pen_turner

what is at the other end of the work top.
is it posible to move the worktop up an inch or 2.

those slips are dirty looking but are what are usually used unless a miter is paid for

neerb

Hi

Its a U shaped Kitchen and running into the window - they have put in 2 - I agree they are terrible and takes away from the kitchen completely as well as being unhygenic .

colm_mcm

To be fair it's a laminate worktop. It's gonna have a joiner either way as they can't really do anything else.

Bonzo Delaney

colm_mcm wrote: »

To be fair it's a laminate worktop. It's gonna have a joiner either way as they can't really do anything else.

Wrong
I've done loads of kitchens with G shape U shaped L shaped 45 degree corner laminated work tops all router jig buiscut jointed and clamped life time job
A professional kitchen company should of given you the option on both . It can be up to a days labour extra work depending on the lay out.
The only hope you have now is one new lenght of counter for middle piece and fitted by a competent carpenter

neerb

Bonzo Delaney wrote: »

Wrong
I've done loads of kitchens with G shape U shaped L shaped 45 degree corner laminated work tops all router jig buiscut jointed and clamped life time job
A professional kitchen company should of given you the option on both . It can be up to a days labour extra work depending on the lay out.
The only hope you have now is one new lenght of counter for middle piece and fitted by a competent carpenter

To be honest I was not given an option and have queried it but they have said it was impossible - the tiling is still to be done am I best off replacing the worktop at this stage ? Can the strips be removed and then the wood joined ?

the_pen_turner

neerb wrote: »

To be honest I was not given an option and have queried it but they have said it was impossible - the tiling is still to be done am I best off replacing the worktop at this stage ? Can the strips be removed and then the wood joined ?

your problem is that the pieces ciould be too short

Bonzo Delaney

neerb wrote: »

To be honest I was not given an option and have queried it but they have said it was impossible - the tiling is still to be done am I best off replacing the worktop at this stage ? Can the strips be removed and then the wood joined ?

Nothings impossible its just whose going to take the responsibility and the hit for it. You could argue that if you knew it was going to have cover strips you coukd of got a diy'er in to fit it not a professional kitchen company try the guilt trip

Bonzo Delaney

Out of curiosity what finish do they have in the show rooms

neerb

Bonzo Delaney wrote: »

Out of curiosity what finish do they have in the show rooms

Well that's the thing I saw a mitre finish in the showroom - so took it for granted that this was the joining used then

Bonzo Delaney

neerb wrote: »

Well that's the thing I saw a mitre finish in the showroom - so took it for granted that this was the joining used then

There's your answer there stick to your guns get them to sort it. Tbh I haven't seen a proper kitchen company use joiner bars in years esp these days with modern jigs for routers and easy fit clamps its nearly idiot proof for anyone thats interested in their job

colm_mcm

Bonzo Delaney wrote: »

Wrong
I've done loads of kitchens with G shape U shaped L shaped 45 degree corner laminated work tops all router jig buiscut jointed and clamped life time job
A professional kitchen company should of given you the option on both . It can be up to a days labour extra work depending on the lay out.
The only hope you have now is one new lenght of counter for middle piece and fitted by a competent carpenter

I (possibly incorrectly) assumed it was on a budget given that solid wood wasn't used.

dodzy

colm_mcm wrote: »

I (possibly incorrectly) assumed it was on a budget given that solid wood wasn't used.

The difference between laminate and wood is not significant. It's the other stuff (and/or granite) the hikes the bill. Bonzo obviously knows his stuff but the seamless joining is well outside the scope of the vast majority of DIYers.

OP, as BD says, the display model is your best weapon. Insist that you were under the impression you were getting what they had on show in store. In the greater scheme of things, it'll not break their bank to redo it to your preference.

Bonzo Delaney

colm_mcm wrote: »

I (possibly incorrectly) assumed it was on a budget given that solid wood wasn't used.

Sorry Colm if i came across as short with you of all folk here.
It just really gets to me what some kitchen suppliers/manufacturers charge for what is essentially screwing a few boxes together and with whats charged there's no reason they cant go the distance and complete the job properly even in a budget kitchen
I can understand bars been used when the units are bought and fitted by a diy'er as the mitre system can look a bit daunting first time around even 2nd time around but a pro outfit should be able to do it in their sleep and if there's two fitters on the job 30 minutes a joint the hardest part is carrying the counters in and maybe back out again for adjustment if they're long ones. But alas it worries me that we're going back to the days of lads who think they're elite carpenters but only have the hands to use a jigsaw and a screw gun on site.