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Can you use mortar to set tile

  • 15-07-2017 12:25pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 887 ✭✭✭


    Hey guy, potentially silly question but have a small enough job to do on my outdoor front step. Basically want to put down antislip tiles at front door. Not a big area. Wondering if you can set them in mortar at a ratio of 4:1 or is that a big no no? Would just make it easier (I susoect) to get all tiles level. Tia


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,421 ✭✭✭DublinDilbert


    Use thin set adhesive designed for tiles, it's cheap in a builders providers and designed for this... It's a powder and mixes a bit like cement.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 887 ✭✭✭celticbhoy27


    Use thin set adhesive designed for tiles, it's cheap in a builders providers and designed for this... It's a powder and mixes a bit like cement.
    Thanks for reply :)
    Yeah I know the thinset is recommended, but just wondering if there's a reason not to use the mortar and cement as have loads of it leftover


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 1,356 ✭✭✭Right2Write


    Thanks for reply :)
    Yeah I know the thinset is recommended, but just wondering if there's a reason not to use the mortar and cement as have loads of it leftover

    We have quarry tiles etc., all laid in bed of mortar on uneven kitchen floor. It does what you say, helps you level and is a very solid and durable result. Bit more work, you nail down temporary battens and level as desired. Make a notched 'screeding' stick, that you can drag between the two battens. It should project down into the mortar a little less than the tile thickness. When you lay your tiles on the mortar bed and tamp them a little, they should then be flush with your battens. Grout joints after setting. Will last decades & probably outlive you :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 887 ✭✭✭celticbhoy27


    We have quarry tiles etc., all laid in bed of mortar on uneven kitchen floor. It does what you say, helps you level and is a very solid and durable result. Bit more work, you nail down temporary battens and level as desired. Make a notched 'screeding' stick, that you can drag between the two battens. It should project down into the mortar a little less than the tile thickness. When you lay your tiles on the mortar bed and tamp them a little, they should then be flush with your battens. Grout joints after setting. Will last decades & probably outlive you :)

    Great stuff, I'll go with the mortar so as I have plenty of it left over. Thanks for the reply


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