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First time changing a gearbox

  • 13-07-2017 5:56am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,465 ✭✭✭✭


    The brother has a 2000 1.6 Avensis with the usual noisy gearbox issue. We've seen a couple on Adverts that appear to be good replacements for handy money and we're thinking about changing it ourselves. We're both pretty enthusiastic DIY'ers and have a lot of knowledge and equipment as DIY'ers go.

    The car is obviously not worth much money and if the new gearbox isn't much better than the original then we wouldn't be crying too hard, btw - it's a bangernomics exercise really. Personally, I'd love the experience of doing the job if it were possible.

    Any general tips for doing the job?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 459 ✭✭CSU


    ...throw a clutch in while the box is out?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,917 ✭✭✭✭Toyotafanboi


    Whatever time you estimate the car will be off the road for, double that estimate. That's what it'll really take, just so you don't end up stuck for transport or panicking through the job.


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 2,881 ✭✭✭shietpilot


    Good axle stands that raise the car high enough in the air and a big jack to support the engine when the gearbox is out. Use a bit of wood between the oil sump and jack as well so you don't crack the sump.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,866 ✭✭✭fancy pigeon


    Dropping the subframe makes life much easier

    Assuming its VVTI make sure you get the right gearbox (some have the cable selectors at the back, others at the front, can't remember what that Avensis is)


  • Closed Accounts Posts: 8,585 ✭✭✭jca


    Make sure it's the right box for starters, there are many different variations. Good quality sockets and spanners are a must as nuts and bolts are very tight. Don't rush and make absolutely certain the socket is perfectly square on the hexagon before attempting to undo, one slip and you're doomed. A good quality cordless impact wrench in conjunction with good quality sockets will make life a lot easier.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 81,220 ✭✭✭✭biko


    Take pictures and create a thread with them so next person can use it as guide when they give it a go.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,532 ✭✭✭JohnBoy26


    Doing the bearings would be a better option but would be beyond diy for many.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,430 ✭✭✭RustyNut


    A Haynes manual is worth its weight in diamonds for something like this.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,522 ✭✭✭martyc5674


    Pick a good flat open spot to work on(assuming our outdoors)
    Get the car up as high as you can. I sometimes put down a few blocks on the flat then some timber blocks then the axle stands, remember the box will need a nice bit of space to come out.
    Make sure the axel stands are positioned so as not to get in the way of the box coming out.
    It's often worth taking the bonnet off..think about slinging the engine from above rather than below if possible...you'll already be tight for space below without a jack carrying an engine to worry about kicking over.
    Spray every exposed thread you can the night before with some penetrating oil and use a wire brush to clean up threads.
    Make sure you have a good breaker bar and 6 point sockets for cracking nuts.
    Crack the axle nuts off the shafts before you remove the wheels...
    Have the blowtorch and tap and dies ready.
    Impact driver be handy but a breaker bar more versatile IMO.
    Bolts holding the box to engine will be all different lengths... have a bit of card to stick them through to keep them sequenced.
    If you replace clutch remember you'll have to centre it pretty well before you bolt on pressure plate.
    You'll be fine it's just a lot of pulling and dragging...oh yeah wear gloves!!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 145 ✭✭hamburg


    martyc5674 wrote: »
    Pick a good flat open spot to work on(assuming our outdoors)
    Get the car up as high as you can. I sometimes put down a few blocks on the flat then some timber blocks then the axle stands, remember the box will need a nice bit of space to come out.
    Make sure the axel stands are positioned so as not to get in the way of the box coming out.
    It's often worth taking the bonnet off..think about slinging the engine from above rather than below if possible...you'll already be tight for space below without a jack carrying an engine to worry about kicking over.
    Spray every exposed thread you can the night before with some penetrating oil and use a wire brush to clean up threads.
    Make sure you have a good breaker bar and 6 point sockets for cracking nuts.
    Crack the axle nuts off the shafts before you remove the wheels...
    Have the blowtorch and tap and dies ready.
    Impact driver be handy but a breaker bar more versatile IMO.
    Bolts holding the box to engine will be all different lengths... have a bit of card to stick them through to keep them sequenced.
    If you replace clutch remember you'll have to centre it pretty well before you bolt on pressure plate.
    You'll be fine it's just a lot of pulling and dragging...oh yeah wear gloves!!
    good advice, but you forgot to add swearing to the last line.;)


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,465 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    Thanks for all that, folks.

    I doubt we would touch the clutch because it was replaced about a year ago (a few months before the box started getting noisy.

    I've been doing some other hunting around on the net and it does look doable. It's the brother's call though. If we do it, I will document it for yis as best I can :)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 459 ✭✭CSU


    cantdecide wrote: »
    Thanks for all that, folks.

    I doubt we would touch the clutch because it was replaced about a year ago (a few months before the box started getting noisy.

    I've been doing some other hunting around on the net and it does look doable. It's the brother's call though. If we do it, I will document it for yis as best I can :)

    ...I think Yer maaaad bot changing it, especially if ya plan on driving her for a couple of years...

    ...anyway

    It goes a Lil something like:

    Power bar -» break Cv nuts

    Put on stands

    Remove shocks and steering from hubs

    Remove driveshafts...watch that messy gear oil.

    Remove battery and box

    Remove any light connections and plastic from box

    Remove starter

    Support engine with a Jack

    Disconnect gear linkages at top of box , then bottom

    Remove all but 1 gearbox bolt

    Remove gearbox mounts

    Get a good hand on box and remove last bolt

    Lower it to ground

    Grease up the shaft on the new box.


    ... I e found easiest way to get the new box in is to get ur 2 legs positioned on the ground, slide the box onto ur knee and wiggle her up and in...good luck - lash her out of it there horse, no messing or ull be there for days XD


  • Banned (with Prison Access) Posts: 1,648 ✭✭✭Autochange


    Get a few bottles of beer for the job and a few faaaags


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 11,465 ✭✭✭✭cantdecide


    Come on, now. I know enough about mechanics to know that no one should take on a job like that sober. My vision is to wake up in the back seat with cottonmouth and a fixed car.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,358 ✭✭✭jimbis


    All great advice above, my little bit of advice is when your putting the new box in, position the box on the ground below where it is going. Get your friend to lift it from above while you scoot in underneath to position it onto the shaft.
    It's can be heart breaking on your first attempt at mounting a gear box, can feel like it'll never go on but just keep the box as level with the engine as possible and you'll get that great feeling of it slotting in :pac:

    Fair play to you taking this on though. Many moons ago it was a gearbox change and no money to pay for it that got me where I am right now.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 75 ✭✭davycha


    Try to have the engine angled slightly downwards when reentering the gearbox , as someone else already said "get someone to lift box from top " while you slide underneath , then Push, Grunt, Wiggle and Swear like a fishwife and they usually go in eventually:D
    best of luck with it


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