Fertiliser advice please

Zimmerframe

Grazed ground, no slurry, closing tomorrow for silage whats the best compound fertiliser i.e 1 fertiliser, 1 pass.

Was thinking 4 bags of Classic NK per acre or how about Replenish although I don't need the P.

Any suggestions ?

pedigree 6

Just curious as to have you spread much fertiliser containing Phosphorus before this soil test was taken?

Other questions I have are.
When was soil sample taken?
What type of soil to the best of your knowledge is it?
I wonder is there phosphoric limestone present in the soil?

Zimmerframe

pedigree 6 wrote: »

Just curious as to have you spread much fertiliser containing Phosphorus before this soil test was taken?

Other questions I have are.
When was soil sample taken?
What type of soil to the best of your knowledge is it?
I wonder is there phosphoric limestone present in the soil?

Got lots of slurry in the past

Soil samples taken in last few weeks

It is sandy soiil ( also low in lime, will be rectified later)

Username John

Zimmerframe wrote: »

Grazed ground, no slurry, closing tomorrow for silage whats the best compound fertiliser i.e 1 fertiliser, 1 pass.

Was thinking 4 bags of Classic NP per acre or how about Replenish although I don't need the P.

Any suggestions ?

You are low in K...

Some lads on here have applied Muriate of Potash - not sure if there are restrictions on when this can be applied? I think when I read about it, most lads applied in the Autumn?
Anyone?

http://www.gouldings.ie/our-products/fertiliser/product-range/

Classic NP has P, but no K
Classic NK has 18.9N and 15K

Not much help after that am afraid...

Zimmerframe

The Classic Np in the OP was a typo meant Classic NK (fixed that).

yes I'm OK for P just need N and K,
Bit tied for time, and soon into July, so just wondering what's the "easiest, quickest" way of getting sorted.
By my (amateur) reckoning, the Classic NK should suffice, but Replenish wouldn't be bad, I think although it's supplying a little P that I don't need along with some "trace elements", which I probably do.

MfMan

At the risk of hijacking this, is it too late to spread Urea on grazing ground? Would the value be gotten out of it? Have a few bags left over and not sure to use it up or leave til early next year. What are the best alternatives? CAN + S, Sweetgrass, Pasture sward?

pedigree 6

I still can't get over how he is high in Phosphorus when the rest of have trouble trying to build it up.

Anyway that's a good complaint to have.:)

Then I found this..

And this question came from a Dutch researcher.
https://www.researchgate.net/post/Is_it_correct_that_sandy_soils_have_a_higher_phosphorus_fixation_potential_than_clay_soil_have_If_correct_why_is_this

White Clover

Op, when your soil has a lower Ph than recommended, only a percentage of the phosphorus in the soil is available to the crop.
Imo it would be unwise to not spread any phosphorus.

Zimmerframe

White Clover wrote: »

Op, when your soil has a lower Ph than recommended, only a percentage of the phosphorus in the soil is available to the crop.
Imo it would be unwise to not spread any phosphorus.

So the "Replenish" sounds good ?

White Clover

Zimmerframe wrote: »

So the "Replenish" sounds good ?

I'd go for 18-6-12

Username John

pedigree 6 wrote: »

I still can't get over how he is high in Phosphorus when the rest of have trouble trying to build it up.

Anyway that's a good complaint to have.:)

Then I found this..

And this question came from a Dutch researcher.
https://www.researchgate.net/post/Is_it_correct_that_sandy_soils_have_a_higher_phosphorus_fixation_potential_than_clay_soil_have_If_correct_why_is_this

Was chatting to a tillage lad about this, as our place would be low in P, good for K. He was saying he has ground that is always high in P, even tho he tills it every year. The ground he was referring to, would be very close to the coast...

So, it happens all right I guess...

Like you say - it is a good complaint, I am trying to build up P in our place, but its an expensive job

Zimmerframe

White Clover wrote: »

I'd go for 18-6-12

Had earlier "gone for glory" with the Replenish, should be "near enough".

mahoney_j

White Clover wrote: »

Op, when your soil has a lower Ph than recommended, only a percentage of the phosphorus in the soil is available to the crop.
Imo it would be unwise to not spread any phosphorus.

Agree fully ,your short lime ,cheapest fertiliser you'll put out and if u don't you won't get full value from your p and k.my advice outside ofvrectifing your ph is 4 bags of replenish per acre

Zimmerframe

mahoney_j wrote: »

.my advice outside of rectifing your ph is 4 bags of replenish per acre

That's exactly what I went for m8.

A big lime bill coming up.

pedigree 6

Username John wrote: »

Was chatting to a tillage lad about this, as our place would be low in P, good for K. He was saying he has ground that is always high in P, even tho he tills it every year. The ground he was referring to, would be very close to the coast...

So, it happens all right I guess...

Like you say - it is a good complaint, I am trying to build up P in our place, but its an expensive job

The op is sorted so it's no problem going on a tangent.:)

It's the problem or situation that half of Holland finds itself in. Sandy soils either fixing their own phosphorus by some trick of luck being low in pH or just holding onto it and not letting go through leaching like other soils would.

Nitrates and phosphates normally leach through the soil. That's why the restrictions apply to prevent excesses in drinking water. But organic matter locks and holds and releases slowly nitrogen.
It would be interesting to know if the op increases the pH will the P start leaching.

mahoney_j

pedigree 6 wrote: »

The op is sorted so it's no problem going on a tangent.:)

It's the problem or situation that half of Holland finds itself in. Sandy soils either fixing their own phosphorus by some trick of luck being low in pH or just holding onto it and not letting go through leaching like other soils would.

Nitrates and phosphates normally leach through the soil. That's why the restrictions apply to prevent excesses in drinking water. But organic matter locks and holds and releases slowly nitrogen.
It would be interesting to know if the op increases the pH will the P start leaching.

Great post

pedigree 6

mahoney_j wrote: »

Great post

Thanks. I'm blushing.:o

I do be wrong half of the time though.:D

Zimmerframe

pedigree 6 wrote: »

It would be interesting to know if the op increases the pH will the P start leaching.

Watch this space, will hopefully do a thread resurrection in a couple of years, unless I have become organic fertiliser myself.

pedigree 6

Zimmerframe wrote: »

Watch this space, will hopefully do a thread resurrection in a couple of years, unless I have become organic fertiliser myself.

Not allowed under bord bia rules.;)

Put a few wheels on the frame. Be grand for another 10 years.:)

Zimmerframe

pedigree 6 wrote: »

Put a few wheels on the frame. Be grand for another 10 years.:)

I hope so, my auld fella is still running the farm.

freedominacup

MfMan wrote: »

At the risk of hijacking this, is it too late to spread Urea on grazing ground? Would the value be gotten out of it? Have a few bags left over and not sure to use it up or leave til early next year. What are the best alternatives? CAN + S, Sweetgrass, Pasture sward?

I blanket spread grazing area yesterday just after rain on Wednesday night. Still have enough urea in stock to cover whole farm once more this year. I wasn't due to apply urea for another week or so but the opportunity presented itself after rain and gr has been good since last application so we took our chance. I wouldn't have a clue about the other frets you mentioned. We spread a bit of 27-2.5-5 after second cut last week. It was ten days after cutting and no real sign of an opportunity to spread urea with no rain forecast so it seemed like the right idea. Needed to get the third cut moving. Others might be more clued in on CAN etc but CAN always looks very expensive to us. Rarely use it.

cute geoge

I find 27 -2.5 -5 responds very well in dry conditions especially nitro fert .I would always be tight on grass and c.a.n. i find does not work in dry weather .Is there any good spreading 27-2'5-5 + s or can +s .
I heard from a few lads that cows eat out paddocks better if sweetgrass fert is spread
What fert is this ??

pedigree 6

cute geoge wrote: »

I find 27 -2.5 -5 responds very well in dry conditions especially nitro fert .I would always be tight on grass and c.a.n. i find does not work in dry weather .Is there any good spreading 27-2'5-5 + s or can +s .
I heard from a few lads that cows eat out paddocks better if sweetgrass fert is spread
What fert is this ??

If you're not spreading sulphur with your fert start now. It's needed more in dry weather than anytime. It will rise up your milk protein a bit too. Win win but little and often. I think 15 units/acre in the year??

yosemitesam1

pedigree 6 wrote: »

The op is sorted so it's no problem going on a tangent.:)

It's the problem or situation that half of Holland finds itself in. Sandy soils either fixing their own phosphorus by some trick of luck being low in pH or just holding onto it and not letting go through leaching like other soils would.

Nitrates and phosphates normally leach through the soil. That's why the restrictions apply to prevent excesses in drinking water. But organic matter locks and holds and releases slowly nitrogen.
It would be interesting to know if the op increases the pH will the P start leaching.

Keep in mind that no soil test is perfect, it's possible to have a low p index while the soil gives an adequate supply to the plant and the opposite can also happen.
The reason why they were finding more available phosphorus in sandy soils could have been that there was less amounts of other minerals to tie it up in a form that the test couldn't measure.
Interestingly a lot of the unavailable p that doesn't show up in tests can be accessed by some plants and a lot of microbes.