Advertisement
If you have a new account but are having problems posting or verifying your account, please email us on hello@boards.ie for help. Thanks :)
Hello all! Please ensure that you are posting a new thread or question in the appropriate forum. The Feedback forum is overwhelmed with questions that are having to be moved elsewhere. If you need help to verify your account contact hello@boards.ie
Hi there,
There is an issue with role permissions that is being worked on at the moment.
If you are having trouble with access or permissions on regional forums please post here to get access: https://www.boards.ie/discussion/2058365403/you-do-not-have-permission-for-that#latest

PZ 166 repair

  • 08-06-2017 1:46pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14


    Hi everyone,
    I've been trying to remove the saucer off the bottom of the inner drum, but can't seem to wrench it off, I've removed the 3 Allen bolts from the base of the saucer and the saucer wobbles, but cannot get it off by pulling it off like I was told by a friend, just wondering is there anything else I'm forgetting to do after removing the bolts that's stopping me? Thanks


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,238 ✭✭✭cute geoge


    I took the saucer off a unifarm last year and there is this gadget the you bolt to the holes and it lever's off the saucer .
    But any time i removed the saucer off a pz i just kept going around the edge of space between drum and saucer with wedges of wood to lever it off


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    On my PZ 165 its a nightmare to remove them, I think they are not the originals but some spurious brand as I bought the machine second hand.
    Anyhow as the previous poster stated going around them with wedges does the job..only I have to use iron wedges and a sledge hammer...best to use 2 wedges 1 to support the opposite side while the other wedge is being hit.
    Putting them back on is another problem...for this I line them up using very long bolts at first then after hitting it in remove the long bolts and fit its own correct Allen bolts.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14 Higgoo


    Thanks fellas, I'll have to try the wedges method, as long as I'm confident that I won't make a mess of bearings then I'll get it off, I'll worry about getting it back on when it comes to that time! Anybody know where I can get a replacement bearing for where the pto shaft transfers to the belt drive? It had seized up and when I loosened it out and ran it on the tractor it let out a little smoke and lots of heat so guessing the bearing is bad


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    Higgoo wrote: »
    Thanks fellas, I'll have to try the wedges method, as long as I'm confident that I won't make a mess of bearings then I'll get it off, I'll worry about getting it back on when it comes to that time! Anybody know where I can get a replacement bearing for where the pto shaft transfers to the belt drive? It had seized up and when I loosened it out and ran it on the tractor it let out a little smoke and lots of heat so guessing the bearing is bad

    You should be able to get the bearings from most agri parts shops...just take off the old bearings and bring them with you and explain what they are for.
    Thats all I ever had to do.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14 Higgoo


    Got that saucer off the bottom of the drum earlier, and finally found the problem as to why the saucer wobbled, there's a "shim set" or spacers at the bottom of the shaft just inside the circlip, problem was there was only one shim left, found the others worn flat and in bits in the bottom of the saucer. Anywhere I can get the parts quickly in Ireland or would similar sized washers do the same job?


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    Higgoo wrote: »
    Got that saucer off the bottom of the drum earlier, and finally found the problem as to why the saucer wobbled, there's a "shim set" or spacers at the bottom of the shaft just inside the circlip, problem was there was only one shim left, found the others worn flat and in bits in the bottom of the saucer. Anywhere I can get the parts quickly in Ireland or would similar sized washers do the same job?

    Worth trying your local agri spares shops first, I would be surprised if they could not source the items you need, but if you get stuck there is this UK dealer who might be of help, you could send him an e-mail to find out more www.westlakeploughparts.co.uk/1004-pz-cm-165-166-mower-parts


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    As far I am aware a lot of the 165 and 166 parts are interchangeable.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14 Higgoo


    Okay so at long last got the PZ 166 running up near perfect, replaced the bearing in the pto drive so running smoothe now. Just one question, how many shims generally was I supposed to fit onto the shaft that holds the bearings for the saucer? As I could only fit two and it was difficult to get them into that space, yet the saucer still has the slightest wobble, whereas the outer saucer doesn't wobble an inch, was I supposed to press the bearings for the saucer up onto the shaft I'm guessing now and fit in another shim or two to make it tighter? If so I've no problems taking the saucer off again to finish it off at last.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,116 ✭✭✭archer22


    Higgoo wrote: »
    Okay so at long last got the PZ 166 running up near perfect, replaced the bearing in the pto drive so running smoothe now. Just one question, how many shims generally was I supposed to fit onto the shaft that holds the bearings for the saucer? As I could only fit two and it was difficult to get them into that space, yet the saucer still has the slightest wobble, whereas the outer saucer doesn't wobble an inch, was I supposed to press the bearings for the saucer up onto the shaft I'm guessing now and fit in another shim or two to make it tighter? If so I've no problems taking the saucer off again to finish it off at last.
    Yeah you would need to tap the bottom bearing in until its firmly seated.
    Is it the Hub that has a little play ?.
    If its up and down then either the bottom bearings are not correctly seated or there is some wear on the bearings in the top section of Hub.
    If you have fitted two standard size shims..that sounds to me like enough.A problem to watch for if you fit the Hub too high is that the end of the shaft might press on the floor of the saucer.
    But that would depend on how how many height spacers you are using (the 3 holed rings that go into the saucer to adjust cutting height).
    In my opinion if the play you have in it is slight and there is no screeching or knocking sounds when its running then its probably ok.
    If there is excessive up and down play then the bottom circlip will get a blow every time the machine is lifted which might over time cause it to fail and the hub and saucer to fall off.
    But if as you say the play is only slight, then I think you Don't have anything to be concerned about...but anyhow the bottom line is only you can judge it.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,238 ✭✭✭cute geoge


    That bearing wont last long term if there is a wobble on the drum .The wobble will cause the bearing to spin on the hub wearing the hub ,the next time it might be worth to get locktite that bonds bearing to hub


  • Advertisement
  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 14 Higgoo


    Right fellas just an update for ye, mower up and running perfect, used it last Friday to cut 4 acres and it ran perfect except for catching the ground a lot which was my own fault for not having the toplink adjusted properly it turned out! Cut perfect, and hay baled up now too! Thanks for all the help, ye sure know your stuff 👌


Advertisement