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Wiring Diagram for MF165

  • 04-06-2017 10:47AM
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,671 ✭✭✭


    Anybody have the wiring diagram for a MF165...circa 1970.

    It has headlights, a plough lamp, and sidelights but no indicators front or back. The wiring to the headlights has been cut (possibly by the alternator!), or at least it ends there, but I've bought a lighting loom.

    Also, if anybody has a picture of what the dash panel should look like (including location of light switch(es), ignition light and gauges, I'd be most grateful for a copy!

    Finally, a picture/diagram of the route the wires from the lights on the fenders (it's not a flat top) take to return to the dash would be most helpful! There are tags which hold the wiring on the fender but when I get to the bottom of the fender I've no clue as to where they go(which would leave them safe!).

    All assistance much appreciated!


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,548 ✭✭✭emaherx


    If you want indicators and an alternator (as opposed to the original fitted dynamo) you are not going to find an official complete wiring diagram as tractor was not originally built with either. Cab may have been fitted with indicators and this will be a separate diagram with Cab documentation and would be very hard to find. It is actually quite important that no original Dynamo wiring is used for the Alternator as it can't handle the current.

    As for your dash layout the ignition light was retrofitted when the alternator was added so there is no proper place for it. There is a correct spot for indicator switch which is obvious where it fits if you have the MF Type it will only fit in one hole, same for main side light/ headlight rotary switch. Some of the cab manufacturers did not use the MF type indicator switch and may not have even mounted the switch on the dash (could be overhead).

    There was most likely originally only one light switch and the ignition switch (key) on your tractor any other switches were added.

    The original Wiring to the fenders was one single wire from light switch on dash going down the tractor on top of gearbox in a thin metal conduit to a 2 pin trailer socket on back and from there split to both fenders.


    MF Diagrams:
    http://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cgi-bin/viewit.cgi?bd=mf&th=117943

    This may help also, for a ford Dexta but relevant as its for a complete rewiring:
    http://vintagetractorengineer.com/2013/02/fordson-dexta-wiring-for-road-use/

    http://vintagetractorengineer.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/Dexta-Wiring-For-Road-Use.pdf


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,671 ✭✭✭exaisle


    Thank you!

    I suspect that certain additions have been made over the years....there's an alternator as opposed to a dynamo but no indicators (which is fine as I won't be using it on the road).

    Thanks also for the info on the routing of the cable from the light switch to the trailer socket (hadn't considered that!). All becomes a little more clear...

    I notice the original equipment according to the diagram includes a cigarette lighter....woohoo! :-)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,548 ✭✭✭emaherx


    exaisle wrote: »
    Thank you!

    I suspect that certain additions have been made over the years....there's an alternator as opposed to a dynamo but no indicators (which is fine as I won't be using it on the road).

    Thanks also for the info on the routing of the cable from the light switch to the trailer socket (hadn't considered that!). All becomes a little more clear...

    I notice the original equipment according to the diagram includes a cigarette lighter....woohoo! :-)

    If you have a new front lighting loom you won't need much in the way of diagrams. There should only be 3 wires, earth (probably black with a ring to attach to a bolt) needs to connect to chassis. Other 2 wires are head light and dip, you can find these by trial and error. If there are 2 more wires bundled together these are for the horn and can be ignored unless you want to fit a horn.

    Only one wire runs to back of tractor for all other lights (negative side of all lights connect to chassis), but personally I'd run a second line with new switch on dash for plough lamp.

    Make sure all power lines have a fuse as close as possible to the source at starter.

    If you think the starting/charging loom looks any way suspect an Alternator upgrade loom is available from Agriline or tractorelectrics.ie.

    If you decide to add indicators in future I normally use heavy duty trailer light cable running back to a 7 pin trailer socket and then connect wings to that you will also have a few spare wires for plough lamp and aux power socket.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,671 ✭✭✭exaisle


    Thanks again for all of the info....

    As you mentioned, the wiring loom for the front lights was fairly easy to figure out..there are three wires at the switch end...head,dip and a third wire, presumably for the horn. There's an extra wire at the lights end to connect to negative/chassis.

    I've inserted an in-line fuse between the ignition switch and the light switch so the entire lighting circuit is fused.

    As regards the rear end, I've run the supplied wiring as you suggest, down the top of the gearbox which then splits to left and right fenders. There are two wires...one for neutral, which I may use for the plough light at some point and just use chassis for negative.
    As things stand at the moment, we have headlights and side/tail lights working as intended.

    There's a fair bit of extraneous wiring which is presumably leftover from when a dynamo was used. I've removed a lot of it and replaced several of the larger 10mm crimp connectors but the next thing I'll do is to check the charging circuit and make sure the ammeter and other gauges work properly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2, Paid Member Posts: 6,548 ✭✭✭emaherx


    Click this
    link
    and choose "165,168,178,188 WITH ALTENATOR FITTING".

    The Loom comes fully labeled and for 40 Euros will solve the rest of your wiring issues with no fear dodgy crimps and loose connections.


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