Counter batten question

chillit

Apologies in advance if this is a stupid question but hopefully someone can help.

I will soon be installing counter battens on top of the airtight membrane in my ceilings. Obviously the usual situation is that the battens run opposite (counter) to the rafter direction. In my case on the sloping sections of roof it would seem easier to install the battens directly on top of the rafters (I.e. in the same direction)

Is this an acceptable approach?

There will be plasterboard attached on top of the battens.

I am guessing that when the battens run opposite to the rafters then each batten is supported by multiple rafters. This would not be the case if I attach the battens in the same direction as the rafters. The plasterboard will still be supported on multiple rafters so I am thinking that the end result is still the same

All comments welcome

Gumbo

Interesting question.
I'm about to do the same on my extension.

mfceiling

Shouldn't be a problem. I'd run a bead of tec 7 down the back of the batten first and screw (not nail) it on. Might not be any harm to make sure your screws are long enough to go through the plasterboard, batten and rafter.

kieran.

mfceiling wrote: »

Shouldn't be a problem. I'd run a bead of tec 7 down the back of the batten first and screw (not nail) it on. Might not be any harm to make sure your screws are long enough to go through the plasterboard, batten and rafter.

What's the purpose of the tec7 in this case? Airtightness?? Also why the screw the battens rather than nail. I understand the benefit of screwing plywood,plaster board etc but is it really necessary for battens.

OP to answer you question there is no issue with battens parallel to stud, joists, rafters its actually the standard way they do timberframed walls.

Calahonda52

Op, you are perhaps mistaken here with the language
https://www.knightbuilt.co.nz/Menu/Construction-Details.php
is the spec for a counter batten roof where the counter battens keep the battens up off the felt and allow the wind to pass up etc

I don't follow your logic/application here, just saying about the language

If you are creating a service void well that is sceil eile

kieran.

I picked it up to that the OP was discussing a service void and when he says on top he means underneath :-)

chillit

@calahonda

I am referring to a service void between the airtight membrane and the plasterboard. Specifically on the sloped section of roof it seems easier to run the battens in line with the rafters and actually from what I can tell there are no services on the sloping roof anyway ( I think !!!)

Just wondering if there are any guidelines on how to run the battens for creating the service void

Calahonda52

chillit wrote: »

@calahonda

I am referring to a service void between the airtight membrane and the plasterboard. Specifically on the sloped section of roof it seems easier to run the battens in line with the rafters and actually from what I can tell there are no services on the sloping roof anyway ( I think !!!)

Just wondering if there are any guidelines on how to run the battens for creating the service void

see attached, if you reverse it the void has a bump every batten

chillit

Thanks calahonda

The bump issue is a good point. I hadn’t thought about that.

Are those 2x1s in the image. Will 2x1s be rigid and strong enough to hold standad plasterboard?

I was going with single 2x2s but maybe that is too heavy

Gumbo

chillit wrote: »

Thanks calahonda

The bump issue is a good point. I hadn’t thought about that.

Are those 2x1s in the image. Will 2x1s be rigid and strong enough to hold standad plasterboard?

I was going with single 2x2s but maybe that is too heavy

2x1 may not allow enough of a service void. I'm doing 2x2 myself.

chillit

Hi keire

Are you using 2 2x2s like in calahondas image or just 1. 2 will give you about 90mm behind the plasterboard.

I am planning just 1 2x2 which gives 45 mm behind the plasterboard plus 12mm plasterboard. This gives 57mm in total which on my case is only for cables and spotlights. The electrican says that there are now very low profile led spot lights that fit in a 50mm void. I need to check that however.

The advantage of calahonda double layer of battens is that the electric can run their cables without needing to drill or notch any battens. I think the calahonda approach is the best but if I use that method I only have space for 2x1s so not sure if they will be rigid enough. The 2x1s setup like the calahonda image will give you the same void as a single 2x2. I think !!!

Gumbo

I'm doing one counter batten of 2x2.
Tegral Lighting in Dublin industrial estate do the slimline LED spots that I am using. They are 35mm deep.

From the face of the AT membrane to the back face of the plasterboard will be approx 50mm.

chillit

Thanks for the tip on the lights.

Gumbo

chillit wrote: »

Thanks for the tip on the lights.

Im using the Neptune 5

http://www.tegral-lighting.com/product/neptune-five/