Changing rear pads & disc backing plates

Toyotafanboi

Hi all.

Had the day off so I got started on a few bits on the Civic.

As the title may suggest I need to have a look at one of the disc backing plates as its coming between me and an NCT and while I'm in there the rear pads aren't the may west.

Anyhow, I didn't expect to get this far without a hitch, calliper, carrier and disc came off without a hitch. Got to the backing plate and the nuts were like cheese. Got a nice clean grip of them with a 10mm socket and they just disintegrated on the first twist.

It's a bit beyond my means to go cutting the heads off them, drilling them out etc etc. So I'm thinking if you look at the undamaged side vs the damaged side, there is only an inch square or so missing so I was thinking I could sand them back, make a fibreglass patch then hammerite the sh1te out of them and that might be an NCT pass? They arent structural to the car so the need for a weld repair isn't necessary I'd say?

Also, I've been rewinding the calliper with a needlenose pliars and its turning nice and freely but it isnt going back at all, so i stopped using the pliars and tried to send it back (gently) with a g-clamp and it won't budge. Is there something I'm not doing? I assume it's just "righty tighty" to send it back in?

Good side:


Bad side:

rex-x

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

Hi all.

Had the day off so I got started on a few bits on the Civic.

As the title may suggest I need to have a look at one of the disc backing plates as its coming between me and an NCT and while I'm in there the rear pads aren't the may west.

Anyhow, I didn't expect to get this far without a hitch, calliper, carrier and disc came off without a hitch. Got to the backing plate and the nuts were like cheese. Got a nice clean grip of them with a 10mm socket and they just disintegrated on the first twist.

It's a bit beyond my means to go cutting the heads off them, drilling them out etc etc. So I'm thinking if you look at the undamaged side vs the damaged side, there is only an inch square or so missing so I was thinking I could sand them back, make a fibreglass patch then hammerite the sh1te out of them and that might be an NCT pass? They arent structural to the car so the need for a weld repair isn't necessary I'd say?

Also, I've been rewinding the calliper with a needlenose pliars and its turning nice and freely but it isnt going back at all, so i stopped using the pliars and tried to send it back (gently) with a g-clamp and it won't budge. Is there something I'm not doing? I assume it's just "righty tighty" to send it back in?

Good side:


Bad side:

You will need to swap out that backing plate I think, it's just too far gone! And the caliper needs pressure and rotation at the same time to rewind

Toyotafanboi

Lovely! Went out today with brute force and ignorance in mind. Went to twist the P/S calliper and it would not budge, rock solid. After copious amounts of lubrication it's now spinning freely and would right back. The D/S however is spinning freely but will for love nor money, not push back. Having a cuppa now and contemplating just going and buying a rewind tool!

Cheensbo

Regarding the dust shields - i failed nct on corrosion on my own car, could not track down replacements so i cut the corroded sections off both sides, left them looking even (same amount cut off both) sprayed with a bit of zinc primer & she passed.

Not sure how necessary they really are but as the old nct saying goes - if it's not there, it cant fail.

Toyotafanboi

I have just fibreglass moulded mine, they are a proper 20:20 job. Then painted over them with hammered effect straight to rust paint and they look... 20:20.

Cheensbo

Toyotafanboi wrote: »

I have just fibreglass moulded mine, they are a proper 20:20 job. Then painted over them with hammered effect straight to rust paint and they look... 20:20.

My vision is shíte tbh :pac: any pics?

Toyotafanboi

I cut out fibreglass sheets into something that resembled a circle and whacked them onto the inside of the backing plate. Plastered with resin then painted on both sides with straight to rust paint. I had to wait for it to dry before I could trim any strangely fibres.



Put it all back together making numerous novice mistakes along the way.



Made a few lots of novice errors along the way. The biggest one was ****ing around with a pliers to rewind them. Spend another hour dicking around with them, ripped one of the piston boots in the process then and only then decided it was too late and went into town, bought a rewind tool and had both pistons back flush within several seconds of opening the box.

I forgot to put the discs back on in such a fashion as to use the locator screws, but I think they don't do anything after the disc is mounted so I worked away without them.

Took the car out for a spin of around 5k and the brakes still feel a good bit softer than they did before the work I reckon but I hope that will fix itself with a bit of driving.

Handbrake feels very much tighter.

Fibreglass kit €16
Rustolum paint €9
Brake pads €28
Rewind tool set €75

Changing your rear pads yourself - priceless.