Tyre pressure.

obi604

Pumped tyres today. Put 35 psi in each.

Got to the rear right one, it didn't feel or look flat but when I put pressure gauge in, it registered as 10 PSI. Does this indicate I have a problem ?

Note: unlike most pressure gauges, this one was not damaged or leaking air and is loooked after and I actually have to travel out of my way to find this working one.

blade1

I'm I missing something or are you just saying that one of your tires needed 25psi?
How long since last pumped?

GerryDerpy

Well it indicates the tyre is losing air faster than the rest. When was the last time you pumped it? It could have lost 25 psi in 2 days or 6 months. The latter wouldn't be a concern.

obi604

blade1 wrote: »

I'm I missing something or are you just saying that one of your tires needed 25psi?
How long since last pumped?

One of the tyres needed 25 psi. Others just needed 1 or 2 psi. They were checked 5 weeks ago. Don't do that much miles. I'm wondering why one needed a whole 25 psi - the tyre did not look flat or feel flat.

obi604

GerryDerpy wrote: »

Well it indicates the tyre is losing air faster than the rest. When was the last time you pumped it? It could have lost 25 psi in 2 days or 6 months. The latter wouldn't be a concern.

5 weeks.

However if a tyre only has 10 PSI, should it look fairly flat or feel soft ?

GerryDerpy

Slow puncture or leaking from the bead. It happens. Tyre shop can fix.

GerryDerpy

obi604 wrote: »

5 weeks.

However if a tyre only has 10 PSI, should it look fairly flat or feel soft ?

Is it a run flat type tyre?

dr.fuzzenstein

obi604 wrote: »

One of the tyres needed 25 psi. Others just needed 1 or 2 psi. They were checked 5 weeks ago. Don't do that much miles. I'm wondering why one needed a whole 25 psi - the tyre did not look flat or feel flat.

Then you have a problem. Check the tire for embedded nails and also check the valve for leaks. Take a bottle of water, pour it over the tire and look for bubbles. They will be almost unnoticeable. Also pour over the edge of the rim, quite common to have leaks along there.

obi604

GerryDerpy wrote: »

Is it a run flat type tyre?

Nope.

obi604

GerryDerpy wrote: »

Slow puncture or leaking from the bead. It happens. Tyre shop can fix.

Thx. Expensive ?

Stoolbend

There isn't as much weight in the back of the car so in general it wouldn't be as noticeable as the front.

Pete67

10 psi will not appear flat unless the car is very heavily loaded. Cost to repair will depend on the problem. A simple puncture repair should be less then €20. However if there is a nail in the sidewall or right at the edge of the tire then it may not be possible to patch it. Worst case a new tyre will be required, the cost will depend of the rim size and quality of tyre. Don't buy cheap Chinese 'no name' tyres, it's a false economy.

GerryDerpy

obi604 wrote: »

Thx. Expensive ?

?10 - ?20 usually. Not repairable if leaking from side wall of tyre. New tyre in that case.

endacl

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

Then you have a problem. Check the tire for embedded nails and also check the valve for leaks. Take a bottle of water, pour it over the tire and look for bubbles. They will be almost unnoticeable. Also pour over the edge of the rim, quite common to have leaks along there.

A squirt of fairy liquid in the water will make it easier to see any leak.

exaisle

dr.fuzzenstein wrote: »

Then you have a problem. Check the tire for embedded nails and also check the valve for leaks. Take a bottle of water, pour it over the tire and look for bubbles. They will be almost unnoticeable. Also pour over the edge of the rim, quite common to have leaks along there.

Put some washing up liquid in the water...that will make the bubbles much more noticable..

As per the above post...duh...:-)

Reputable Rog

obi604 wrote: »

Thx. Expensive ?

€5 max

masterboy123

I had similar issue and turned out there was a slow puncture. Got it fixed for a tenner. I have run flat Michelin tyres.

ironclaw

Just to add, its fairly unusual to have the same pressures the whole way round. Generally your front and rears differ by a few PSI, based on the tyre and load. Its indicated on the inside of the door or the inside of the fuel cap door.

obi604

masterboy123 wrote: »

I had similar issue and turned out there was a slow puncture. Got it fixed for a tenner. I have run flat Michelin tyres.

How was this found ?

obi604

Could this problem be linked with a dodgy valve ?

masterboy123

Took it the tyre shop. They dipped the tyre in a huge water bowl and bubbles started coming up.

obi604 wrote: »

How was this found ?

obi604

masterboy123 wrote: »

Took it the tyre shop. They dipped the tyre in a huge water bowl and bubbles started coming up.

Thought the fact that it's a "slow" puncture, this would not even produce bubbles.

masterboy123

It took a while and a very detailed inspection to find the bubbles.
No more loss of psi after that

obi604 wrote: »

Thought the fact that it's a "slow" puncture, this would not even produce bubbles.

GerryDerpy

Reputable Rog wrote: »

€5 max

I wouldn't let someone fix my tyre puncture for a fiver! Or if I did I would want to stand beside and watch them.

blade1

Reputable Rog wrote: »

€5 max

It's more than that but that's inflation for ya!!!:D

jimbis

Proper fairly liquid is key to finding the really slow ones. The cheap sh!t is terrible for it. No joke.

obi604

Ah Christ, never ends. Spent the last 30 minutes trying to get the dodgy wheel off the car to have a gander. Loosened nuts a bit, jacked up car, fully loosened all nuts, normally the wheel nearly falls off at this stage, but no. Tried pulling it, giving it a tap, but no stir. Didn't want to be too forceful with it while still jacked up.

Any ideas why the wheel isn't coming off easy?

blade1

Not telling you to do this but if the car is secure I'd lay down and give it a good back heel on the inside.
It's probably rust that's causing it to stick.
A hard enough slap will get it off.

punisher5112

Block of timber and hammer or lump hammer and smack from the rear it should come off.

They will get a good seal during winter months from grit and rain.

Quite possible there a foreign object in it.

Tyre patch plug/patch kits can be got easy enough and done yourself but check areas that require plug.

If its in sidewall or withing 1st 2inches of outer edge of tyre then really it needs a new one.

That's on inside and outer edge(both outer edges).

Valve as mentioned above could also be perished.

obi604

punisher5112 wrote: »

Block of timber and hammer or lump hammer and smack from the rear it should come off.

They will get a good seal during winter months from grit and rain.

Quite possible there a foreign object in it.

Tyre patch plug/patch kits can be got easy enough and done yourself but check areas that require plug.

If its in sidewall or withing 1st 2inches of outer edge of tyre then really it needs a new one.

That's on inside and outer edge(both outer edges).

Valve as mentioned above could also be perished.

And do this whilst jacked up ?

punisher5112

obi604 wrote: »

And do this whilst jacked up ?

If jacked up safely yes.

Otherwise if car is down you won't get any movement with weight on wheel and tyre.

obi604

punisher5112 wrote: »

If jacked up safely yes.

Otherwise if car is down you won't get any movement with weight on wheel and tyre.

Ok. Don't fancy doing too much kicking of tyre with car jacked up. Have no blocks of wood to hand either.

punisher5112

obi604 wrote: »

Ok. Don't fancy doing too much kicking of tyre with car jacked up. Have no blocks of wood to hand either.

Improvise if possible.

You could try loosen nuts but not too much and move car forward and back while on the ground to help free up.

Wd 40 in behind where wheel meets hub.

Again while on the ground and nuts loose give good few kicks at rear outwards then Jack up try again.

It can take time.

Happened in the real bad snow where wheel tyre popped off after spin into kerb. Took an hour of belting to free wheel as they were welded from all the grit/salt that year.

punisher5112

Any skip near by take a lump of timber out. Even some cardboard would do to save the wheel especially if its an alloy.

If steel wheels I wouldn't be so bothered.

obi604

punisher5112 wrote: »

Any skip near by take a lump of timber out. Even some cardboard would do to save the wheel especially if its an alloy.

If steel wheels I wouldn't be so bothered.

sorry, what are the lumps of timber to be used for, I presumed as a backup to the jack in case jack failed or wobbled from the banging etc

Pete67

Why not just drive to a tyre fitters, tell them you have a slow puncture in whichever wheel and let them deal with it. They will have the wheel off in less than a minute.

punisher5112

obi604 wrote: »

sorry, what are the lumps of timber to be used for, I presumed as a backup to the jack in case jack failed or wobbled from the banging etc

Block of timber to protect the wheel when hitting with lump/ hammer.

jimbis

Little tip here for anyone struggling to get a wheel off, get your spare wheel (if you have one) and swing it at the rim of the stubborn wheel and it should pop off and no chance of damage.

If that doesn't work then your gonna need to hit it from behind which means getting under the car.... Big no no at the side of the road.

obi604

jimbis wrote: »

Little tip here for anyone struggling to get a wheel off, get your spare wheel (if you have one) and swing it at the rim of the stubborn wheel and it should pop off and no chance of damage.

If that doesn't work then your gonna need to hit it from behind which means getting under the car.... Big no no at the side of the road.

Thanks. But is all this swinging and banging at wheels kinda unsafe from a jack point of view. If jack slips or whatever during this , you are fooked, or is this very unlikely to happen.

punisher5112

obi604 wrote: »

Thanks. But is all this swinging and banging at wheels kinda unsafe from a jack point of view. If jack slips or whatever during this , you are fooked, or is this very unlikely to happen.

Depends on your jack and set up.

Axle stands and jack should be used.

Hit from side and don't go under the vehicle when hitting.

obi604

punisher5112 wrote: »

Depends on your jack and set up.

Axle stands and jack should be used.

Hit from side and don't go under the vehicle when hitting.

my jack is just your run of the mill basic car jack.

Notch000

a good whack will fix it. failing that ive lowered the car onto the wheel and its own weight should break the bond. Make sure you not sitting under the car and have a block or axel stand in handy incase jack fails