which white paint for internal doors (that doesn't go YELLOW after years)?

tp25

Hi all, which is the best white paint to use for internal doors that does not changes to yellow color after few years?

All my internal doors seems to get very yellow after 5 years and i would like to paint it once and for good.

thanks

km991148

I think it seems to be the high gloss ones that yellow quickest these days (the chemicals have to meet minimum pollution guidelines, and the older/more pollutant paints that made the gloss glossy were whiter!)

Satinwood seems to yellow at a slower rate, but obv not as glossy if you are happy with that look? Satin seems more modern these days anyway.

Thats my understanding of it all at least!

Also - a decent brand and not homebase own brand etc. In Ireland I always liked the fleetwood/vogue paints for emulsion or vinyl emulsion - dont know what their gloss/satinwood is like.

macnug

Good quality trade eggshell lasts the longest I found.

tp25

macnug wrote: »

Good quality trade eggshell lasts the longest I found.

i need in white which doesn't get yellow

macnug

tp25 wrote:

i need in white which doesn't get yellow

Eggshells a type of sheen (or lack of sheen) not a colour so you can buy a brilliant white eggshell.

tp25

lol - here goes me and my understanding of an egg shell ! Thanks!

PANDDDKP

The paint you have on your doors at present is oil based. It yellows in a short space of time. Water based paint (Satinwood or Gloss) which is now more common will not yellow.

If you are going to put water based paint over the old oil based gloss you will first need to give the wood a light sanding and put an adhesion primer on, otherwise the water based paint will scratch easily from the old paint.

Adhesion primers can be bought now in water based too. If you don't want to use an adhesion primer then use an oil based undercoat from Dulux and put the water based top coat on.

In terms of brands for the satinwood, Fleetwood, as much as I hate their products in general do a very good satinwood advanced, it's tougher than most others, but thin it out slightly with a bit of water, it'll spread easier.

tp25

PANDDDKP wrote: »

The paint you have on your doors at present is oil based. It yellows in a short space of time. Water based paint (Satinwood or Gloss) which is now more common will not yellow.

If you are going to put water based paint over the old oil based gloss you will first need to give the wood a light sanding and put an adhesion primer on, otherwise the water based paint will scratch easily from the old paint.

Adhesion primers can be bought now in water based too. If you don't want to use an adhesion primer then use an oil based undercoat from Dulux and put the water based top coat on.

am i right saying the job i intend to do will require:

1) light sanding of the entire doors, architraves, skirting boards (as i intend to paint them all at once and at the same while color
(can someone define 'a light sanding'? is it one using 120 grade sand paper or does that mean i won't be sanding the entire coats of the old paint to go to live wood?)

2) paint the surfaces of above with the adhesion primer

3) paint the surfaces with the water based Satinwood or Gloss

PANDDDKP

tp25 wrote: »

am i right saying the job i intend to do will require:

1) light sanding of the entire doors, architraves, skirting boards (as i intend to paint them all at once and at the same while color
(can someone define 'a light sanding'? is it one using 120 grade sand paper or does that mean i won't be sanding the entire coats of the old paint to go to live wood?)

2) paint the surfaces of above with the adhesion primer

3) paint the surfaces with the water based Satinwood or Gloss

1) Yes. A light sanding me means get a sanding sponge or block in a paint shop, grade 120 is fine. Get 2 pads/blocks, they're not dear, 2 will be about a fiver. Lightly sand them, just a quick rub down, no need to sand back to bare timber, it's just to score the paint that's on already

2) Yes. One I would recommend is Colourtrend Prime 2. It's waterbased, that means it dries really quick, doesn't smell too bad unlike a lot of the others, and you can wash the brush out afterwards and use it on the top coat

3) Yes. Satinwood is a nicer finish in my opinion. You're probably best to give 2 top coats. It dries really quickly, about an hour depending on conditions, whereas the old oil based stuff, it takes hours and stinks the place out!

How many doors etc are you doing? That will determine the quantity obviously, but 1 litre of each will easily do 2 doors & architrave & skirting in 2 rooms, maybe even 3, plus the paint isn't dear.

tp25

PANDDDKP wrote: »

1) Yes. A light sanding me means get a sanding sponge or block in a paint shop, grade 120 is fine. Get 2 pads/blocks, they're not dear, 2 will be about a fiver. Lightly sand them, just a quick rub down, no need to sand back to bare timber, it's just to score the paint that's on already

2) Yes. One I would recommend is Colourtrend Prime 2. It's waterbased, that means it dries really quick, doesn't smell too bad unlike a lot of the others, and you can wash the brush out afterwards and use it on the top coat

3) Yes. Satinwood is a nicer finish in my opinion. You're probably best to give 2 top coats. It dries really quickly, about an hour depending on conditions, whereas the old oil based stuff, it takes hours and stinks the place out!

Many thanks! - much appreciated

PANDDDKP wrote: »

How many doors etc are you doing? That will determine the quantity obviously, but 1 litre of each will easily do 2 doors & architrave & skirting in 2 rooms, maybe even 3, plus the paint isn't dear.

I'm planning on doing 5 doors and architraves around these, then i'm also planning to do skirting in the kitchen (with dining) and a living rooms (so let's say equivalent to about 2 rooms)