Immersion Switch Warm

batman2000

Hi,

I've a question.

I turned on the immersion and set it to bath.
I noticed that the plastic case under the "On" switch began to get very warm, if not hot on the left side.

I can't say I've noticed this before. Is it normal.
Picture attached

b318isp

I'd get that checked by a qualified electrician ASAP, the whole installation looks poor - who knows what's happening behind the scenes.

I may not be what you want to hear - it may just be a loose connection, but could be something else. Given the way the cables are routed, I'd be concerned about the whole install, especially what can't be seen.

2011

Switch it off and get a qualified electrician to look at it.
Most likely a poor quality connection.

It looks like you may have a connection covered with tape.
Pretty poor workmanship if that is the case.
Nip this issue in the bid to prevent it becoming something more serious.

studdlymurphy

Surely turning off the power and opening and tightening all the connections inside the switch is not a job for a qualified electrician most competent people could do this?

Pete67

Yes, any competent person could open and tighten a loose connection, however this installation needs a thorough review for any other problems which may compromise safety. No disrespect to the OP but asking if a warm to hot switch is normal would suggest that they would be better off engaging a REC to examine the installation and rectify any shortcomings.

2011

studdlymurphy wrote: »

Surely turning off the power and opening and tightening all the connections inside the switch is not a job for a qualified electrician most competent people could do this?

If that is what the problem is you are correct.
Based on the OP I assumed that a competent person would as not available.

batman2000

The original install was done by a certified electrician (about 7 years ago). The tape covering the gap is just cover a hole in the wall. There are no terminal blocks joined via tape in behind . There is a socket taking a feed via twin and earth from the timer.

I could shut off the power at the fuse box/distribution board and open the box and check for loose connections.

2011

batman2000 wrote: »

The tape covering the gap is just cover a hole in the wall. There are no terminal blocks joined via tape in behind

That's good

There is a socket taking a feed via twin and earth from the timer.

That is not good
The immersion and therefore the timer should not be on the same circuit as a socket. In light of this information I would recommend getting a qualified electrician (a different one) to check this out.

I could shut off the power at the fuse box/distribution board and open the box and check for loose connections.

Yes you could. Ensure all connections are tight and the conductors are in good condition. The switch may need to be replaced. Check for scotch marks.

Thewitheredowl

2011 wrote: »

That is not good
The immersion and therefore the timer should not be on the same circuit as a socket. In light of this information I would recommend getting a qualified electrician (a different one) to check this out.

Genuine question without sounding like a smart arse, but is it against the regs to have a socket on an immersion circuit? Or is it the fact that the socket comes after the timer that's not good? With a typical immersion having the a similar power consumption to a lot of kettles, what is the problem with having a socket on that circuit.

I'm open to being bent over and told the reasons why it is not good

2011

Thewitheredowl wrote: »

Genuine question without sounding like a smart arse, but is it against the regs to have a socket on an immersion circuit? Or is it the fact that the socket comes after the timer that's not good? With a typical immersion having the a similar power consumption to a lot of kettles, what is the problem with having a socket on that circuit.

I'm open to being bent over and told the reasons why it is not good

I haven't the regs in front of me but will answer properly when I have.
However to address some of your points:
Yes as far as I know it is against the regs. I have not worked as an electrician in many years, but that is my recollection. As I said I will check.
A 3 kW kettle will switch off within a minute or two the same can not be said for a 3 kW immersion. Some small additional loads can be added to a circuit supplying an immersion but a socket is not one of them.

Risteard81

studdlymurphy wrote: »

Surely turning off the power and opening and tightening all the connections inside the switch is not a job for a qualified electrician most competent people could do this?

Only if you ignore the fact that the switch has almost certainly been damaged as a result of this suspect poor connection and therefore merely tightening it would be a wholly unsatisfactory response.

batman2000

Thanks for the responses, as a test, I just set it to Sink instead of Bath and the switch did not get warm.
I'll get a electrician to look at it anyway, as it appears the socket isn't meant to be spured off the immersion.
I even got a Safe Electric cert for all the work, including this socket.

BlinkingLights

Definitely get that reviewed.
Could be a loose connection or an undersized conductor.

The installation looks terrible though. Surprised that got certified.

batman2000

The terminal connections are secure. Was told it was just the pull of the immersion "bath" heating element.
The socket, only 1.5mm2 was used and not 2.5mm2. The only item plugged in is a night light, as 1.5mm2 is 10A rated, he said it would be fine. He did agree it should not have been installed like that from the timer switch.

2011

In my opinion this "electrician" is incompetent.
I would advise that you use a different electrician.
The advice you have been given is incorrect.

Out of interest how does he intend on ensuring that a large load is never to plugged into this socket at a future date ? Is he really suggesting that it is acceptable not to protect the 1.5 cable, just hope it is never overloaded?

EHP

batman2000 wrote:

The terminal connections are secure. Was told it was just the pull of the immersion "bath" heating element. The socket, only 1.5mm2 was used and not 2.5mm2. The only item plugged in is a night light, as 1.5mm2 is 10A rated, he said it would be fine. He did agree it should not have been installed like that from the timer switch.

If terminal connections are ok change the switch sounds like a faulty switch. As for the socket it needs to be disconnected a 1.5 cable cannot be fed from a 20 amp supply. At a guess I would think your immersion is fed with around 10 meters of 2.5 cable direct from your board, depending on the installation method the immersion has the potential to max out the capability of this cable. In certain installation methods 2.5 may even be too small for a 3kw immersion strictly speaking. What people tend to forget is the load a cable can take reduces significantly over distance and with the method of install eg buried in insulation or in conduit in insulated walls.

batman2000

So, I'm back on this topic. I noticed that the main fuse board was buzzing when the immersion was turned on. This only happened when on bath and not sink. Time to get a second opinion??

2011

batman2000 wrote: »

So, I'm back on this topic. I noticed that the main fuse board was buzzing when the immersion was turned on. This only happened when on bath and not sink. Time to get a second opinion??

Not a good sign as it may mean that something is arcing, so potentially a fire hazard. Get an electrician to check it out asap.

EHP

2011 wrote:

Not a good sign as it may mean that something is arcing, so potentially a fire hazard. Get an electrician to check it out asap.

Second this and ask the electrician for a cert 3 for any works he does this should insure he does all necessary tests and hopefully leaves your installation up to regs and safe.