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Derailleur hanger snapped

  • 29-04-2017 9:04am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭


    So I changed out my gears for a new ten speed Shimano Tiagra setup. Thought I had everything adjusted correctly. After 2k on my way home from town something went wrong anyway and the hanger tore off. As I'm sourcing a replacement (or two!) this morning I just wanted to ask some advice as it's the first time I've replaced the gears myself.

    I read somewhere that running the largest gear on the front as well as the back can cause this to happen so isn't recommended to start off in this ratio. It was never a problem with my older Sora gears.

    Is it likely that I just haven't got the low limit adjusted correctly and it shifted too far?

    Is there anything else that could have caused this that I've overlooked?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,397 ✭✭✭easygoing39


    This happened because the limit screws were incorrectly set.Running big ring to big ring will not cause a rear mech to enter the back wheel.
    It will however give you a bad chainline,which promotes chain,cassette and chainring wear prematurely.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    So my low limit screw, set incorrectly, allowed the chain to go too far, off the sprocket and between the sprocket and spokes?

    I understand the issue of wear but I got a good life span out of it!

    Proving tricky to get a replacement in local bike shops!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭cython


    Effects wrote: »
    So my low limit screw, set incorrectly, allowed the chain to go too far, off the sprocket and between the sprocket and spokes?

    I understand the issue of wear but I got a good life span out of it!

    Proving tricky to get a replacement in local bike shops!

    More likely it allowed the cage of the rear mech itself to go into the spokes rather than the chain, so you may need to make sure the mech hasn't sustained any damage in the process too.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 781 ✭✭✭Mr. Grieves


    Effects wrote: »
    So my low limit screw, set incorrectly, allowed the chain to go too far, off the sprocket and between the sprocket and spokes?

    I understand the issue of wear but I got a good life span out of it!

    Proving tricky to get a replacement in local bike shops!

    Did the derailleur go into the spokes? Another way you can snap it is if there's​ a bent or stiff link in the chain which catches as it goes through the jockey wheels and snaps the hanger.

    Call into Bee Cycles, he has a huge selection of hangers. Or try derailleurhanger.com


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    I'll double check for damage to the mechanism, and also check if it's a stiff link.

    I got the hanger in Bee Cycles. Great little shop and friendly dude.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    Found the culprit:
    33fbwqs.jpg

    I can only guess that I didn't close the link properly. Am I ok to just take two links out to remove this piece?

    The mechanism looks undamaged apart from the screw that adjusts the position on the hanger, that's bent.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,531 ✭✭✭hesker


    Effects wrote: »
    Am I ok to just take two links out to remove this piece?.

    If you don't replace the removed links you run the risk of using a chain that's too short. Whether it matters or not depends on whether or not your chain was the right length to begin with.

    You can Google the impact of too short chain.

    Why don't you see if you can bend the link back into position and secure the pin properly.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭cython


    hesker wrote: »
    If you don't replace the removed links you run the risk of using a chain that's too short. Whether it matters or not depends on whether or not your chain was the right length to begin with.

    You can Google the impact of too short chain.

    Why don't you see if you can bend the link back into position and secure the pin properly.

    Do not do this! If you want to try and salvage the chain, then get a chain breaker and quick link, and remove the busted outer link, and replace it with the quick link. It should take about 5 mins if you know what you're doing, and only 5 mins more than that to learn if you don't :)

    Attempting to salvage the broken link will probably see you left on the side of the road with a broken chain sooner rather than later, and wishing you had a chain breaker and quick/master link!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,531 ✭✭✭hesker


    cython wrote: »
    Do not do this! If you want to try and salvage the chain, then get a chain breaker and quick link, and remove the busted outer link, and replace it with the quick link. It should take about 5 mins if you know what you're doing, and only 5 mins more than that to learn if you don't :)

    Attempting to salvage the broken link will probably see you left on the side of the road with a broken chain sooner rather than later, and wishing you had a chain breaker and quick/master link!

    It doesn't look that bad from the pic above. I don't see a broken link just a dislodged pin.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    Get the quick link that's not worth salvaging and it's always handy to have a quick link on your chain.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭cython


    hesker wrote: »
    It doesn't look that bad from the pic above. I don't see a broken link just a dislodged pin.

    Several reasons to abandon the link in question:
    1. 10 speed setups should be joined with a joining pin, not just pushing back in a removed pin as you have suggested (this can be done in 8 and 9 speed, due to larger tolerances). It's highly unlikely that this pin could be made to actually take a significant load again, as there won't be proper peening on the pin ends to retain the link plates
    2. Even using a proper joining pin, the outer link plates are bent (necessary for the pin to be "dislodged", after all), so it's likely a matter of time before one would bend again, or they may simply be fatigued. Hence quick link a safer option. Also possible that a new joining pin wouldn't anchor the plates properly if the hole on either outer link has widened.
    3. If the chain fails when out of the saddle, the outcome can range from a spill onto the ground, to landing on the top tube, or any number of other outcomes. Best not to take a chance IMHO.

    Obviously the OP is free to make their own choice on this, but frankly your suggestion is against all conventional wisdom on joining 10 speed chains.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    The link does seem a bit bent so I'd rather remove just in case. I haven't heard of a quick link, can anyone recommend one? Edit: https://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/KMC/11-Speed-Silver-Missing-Link-Single-Link/RA1?&co=IRL&cu=EUR&glCountry=IE&gclid=CIqp7feQ1tMCFQi-7Qodd1QClA&gclsrc=aw.ds Can I pick it up in most cycle shops?

    I do have a chain breaker, it's how I closed the chain in the first place! It came with a spare joining pin. It's a brand new chain, an Ultegra one on 10 speed Tiagra groupset.
    So just taking a link out would shorted it too much?

    It's a learning process doing my own maintenance, and it takes up time, but it's rewarding learning to do it myself.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 6,373 ✭✭✭iwillhtfu


    That's an 11 speed quick link you need a 10 speed one. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-chain-connectors/rp-prod25439

    Unless of course you have an 11 speed chain.


  • Moderators, Category Moderators, Arts Moderators, Sports Moderators Posts: 50,860 CMod ✭✭✭✭magicbastarder


    Effects wrote: »
    Can I pick it up in most cycle shops?
    i was able to pick one up in my local place with no fuss.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    iwillhtfu wrote: »
    That's an 11 speed quick link you need a 10 speed one. http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/ie/en/kmc-chain-connectors/rp-prod25439

    Unless of course you have an 11 speed chain.

    Thanks, the 11 speed just came up when I googled it. I have a SHIMANO Ultegra CN-6600 10-speed chain.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    I picked one up on Wexford St., it's made by BBB and says it's compatible with BBB 10 speed chains. Will it be ok for Shimano?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 781 ✭✭✭Mr. Grieves


    Effects wrote: »
    I picked one up on Wexford St., it's made by BBB and says it's compatible with BBB 10 speed chains. Will it be ok for Shimano?

    Yes should be fine.

    Those Shimano joining pins are BS. I've had a chain break and snap a hanger leaving me stranded in exactly the same way as yours did. I always buy a SRAM quick link for a Shimano chain.

    Only join a 9, 10 or 11 speed chain with a pin in an emergency.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    It seems to be working ok. I had a mess up where I dropped the ring that goes around a pin. Searched on the floor but couldn't find it. Ended up taking a link out instead. I then found the ring two minutes are finishing the work. I was about to put it back in but after reading about the BS joining pins I think I'll leave it as it is now!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 4,792 ✭✭✭cython


    Effects wrote: »
    It seems to be working ok. I had a mess up where I dropped the ring that goes around a pin. Searched on the floor but couldn't find it. Ended up taking a link out instead. I then found the ring two minutes are finishing the work. I was about to put it back in but after reading about the BS joining pins I think I'll leave it as it is now!

    Just be careful about ending up in your largest chainring, and largest sprocket (a combination best avoided in any case!). Worst case if the chain is too short you may get stuck in that combo, and have issues even getting your wheel off to try and fix it. It may be worth putting the bike up on a workstand if you have one (or held by a helpful friend if not!) and running through the gear combinations in that region to assess the risk of that happening.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 9,760 ✭✭✭Effects


    Did a 20km ride and everything seems to be running well.
    I do have a workstand, bought one in Lidl. Great value and I wouldn't be without one again.


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