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New Central Heating Boiler - Ideal Logic or alternatives?

  • 06-04-2017 6:33am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,420 ✭✭✭


    We need a new central heating boiler.

    Three bed semi-d, with extension. 12 radiators, plus hot water tank. May want to allow for a couple more with later attic conversion.

    1. What sort of power output do we need?
    2. Any views on Ideal Logic?
    3. Any other brand suggestions?

    We're happy to invest a bit to get the right make/size boiler. The old one owes us nothing.

    Thanks.

    D.


Comments

  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    Ideal Vogue
    Intergas Rapid
    Worcester Bosch
    Viessmann


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,420 ✭✭✭Dinarius


    DGOBS wrote: »
    Ideal Vogue
    Intergas Rapid
    Worcester Bosch
    Viessmann

    Are they listed in order of preference?

    What sort of output should we be considering?

    Thanks again.

    D.


  • Hosted Moderators Posts: 3,496 ✭✭✭DGOBS


    No, 4 good makes

    Output depends on the demand you have (you'll need your installer to size the boiler for you)


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,420 ✭✭✭Dinarius


    Thanks.

    Probably going for the Ideal Vogue 26k.

    D.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,420 ✭✭✭Dinarius


    One other question......

    Should I be looking at System, Combi or Regular boiler?

    Not even sure what's there at the moment.

    All I know is that it heats the rads and the water tank in the upstairs hotpress.

    I think that the hot water in the tank also feeds the hot taps. (It must do, coz in Summer, when we turn off the gas and use the tank element, we get hot water in the taps.)

    So, which is it?

    Thanks.

    D.

    ps. Like the look of Viessmann also.


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  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Dinarius wrote: »
    One other question......

    Should I be looking at System, Combi or Regular boiler?

    Not even sure what's there at the moment.

    All I know is that it heats the rads and the water tank in the upstairs hotpress.

    I think that the hot water in the tank also feeds the hot taps. (It must do, coz in Summer, when we turn off the gas and use the tank element, we get hot water in the taps.)

    So, which is it?

    Thanks.

    D.

    ps. Like the look of Viessmann also.

    You'd want a system boiler (which has a pump and expansion vessel internally fitted) but you may have a system or regular boiler (which has pump and expansion vessel external)


    Also I'd have a Viessmann given a choice.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,420 ✭✭✭Dinarius


    Thanks for all the advice.

    We currently have a Heatline Compact S30S (it's this one)

    The thing is, we had it serviced a week ago and it's fine, as is the rest of the CH system, except that the refill/re-pressurizing valve at the base of the boiler isn't working.

    So, the pressure indicator is now very slightly into the red and we can't top it up to push it back above 1 on the meter.

    The guy who checked over the system said that we wouldn't be able to get parts for it - i.e. a replacement valve (is the valve part of the boiler, or part of the pipework that was connected to the boiler? It's certain outside the body of the boiler, so to speak.) - and that, if we were to keep the boiler instead of replacing it, a "spring-valve"(?) would be placed in the hotpress which would top up the system automatically.

    1. It is possible to repair/replace the valve underneath the boiler?

    2. Can parts be found?

    3. Is the placement of a valve upstairs a reasonable solution?

    4. Should we bite the bullet and spend Euro2k+ on a new (more efficient) boiler, or have the valve repaired?

    Thanks again.

    D.

    Ps. I'm in Dublin 14 (Clonskeagh/Goatstown). If anyone wants to deal with me directly, PM me. Thanks.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Dinarius wrote: »
    Thanks for all the advice.

    We currently have a Heatline Compact S30S (it's this one)

    The thing is, we had it serviced a week ago and it's fine, as is the rest of the CH system, except that the refill/re-pressurizing valve at the base of the boiler isn't working.

    So, the pressure indicator is now very slightly into the red and we can't top it up to push it back above 1 on the meter.

    The guy who checked over the system said that we wouldn't be able to get parts for it - i.e. a replacement valve (is the valve part of the boiler, or part of the pipework that was connected to the boiler? It's certain outside the body of the boiler, so to speak.) - and that, if we were to keep the boiler instead of replacing it, a "spring-valve"(?) would be placed in the hotpress which would top up the system automatically.

    1. It is possible to repair/replace the valve underneath the boiler?

    2. Can parts be found?

    3. Is the placement of a valve upstairs a reasonable solution?

    4. Should we bite the bullet and spend Euro2k+ on a new (more efficient) boiler, or have the valve repaired?

    Thanks again.

    D.

    Ps. I'm in Dublin 14 (Clonskeagh/Goatstown). If anyone wants to deal with me directly, PM me. Thanks.

    I would fit a secondary filling point upstairs, a simple solution and one that can be undone when you fit a new boiler.

    You could get years out of your boiler or it may go tomorrow, personally I would put the boiler money to one side and replace the boiler when it dies.

    I'd also think about fitting a a magnetic filter if its practical to do so as they go along way to improve boiler longevity.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,420 ✭✭✭Dinarius


    Gary,

    Thanks for the reply.

    Yes, my instinct is to spend a couple of hundred and hold off on spending a couple of 000's. (Though I am aware that the Heatline is costing us a few Euros a month more in gas than a new boiler would.)

    Also, I'm told that fitting a second filling point upstairs may help with a new installation in the future.

    No idea what a magnetic filter is.

    Thanks again.

    D.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,420 ✭✭✭Dinarius


    Sorted....I think.

    Just had a brainwaveand thought I'd remove the valve knob to have a look at it.

    Turns out it has a crack in it.

    To be fair to the plumber last week, the crack is on the inside and not visible. When turning it, the impression was that it was turning ok, but the valve wasn't turning/operating in tandem.

    So, after removing the knob, I turned the valve with a pliers, and the pressure is now perfect again. Running like a train. 😊

    Question is: where to get a replacement knob? (See attached pics)

    Thanks.

    D.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 8,565 ✭✭✭K.Flyer


    That looks exactly the same as the lever on a washing machine water feed isolation valve.
    Go into a plumbing suppliers or even a hardware store and compare it. You will get one for only a couple of euro if its the same.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,420 ✭✭✭Dinarius


    Thanks. You're right.

    Not for the first time the legend that is Churchtown Stores sorted me. In fact I took two, to have one as a spare. They didn't even want to charge me for them. (I insisted on paying!)

    So, bled all the rads and topped up the system. Running like a train now.

    Will take Gary's advice and keep my two K for a while and see this boiler out.

    Thanks to all for the advice.

    D.


  • Posts: 0 [Deleted User]


    Dinarius wrote: »
    Gary,

    Thanks for the reply.

    Yes, my instinct is to spend a couple of hundred and hold off on spending a couple of 000's. (Though I am aware that the Heatline is costing us a few Euros a month more in gas than a new boiler would.)

    Also, I'm told that fitting a second filling point upstairs may help with a new installation in the future.

    No idea what a magnetic filter is.

    Thanks again.



    D.


    Filing points are usually built in to the connections under the boiler, so your new boiler when you fit it should have provisions for it.

    Magnetic filters help remove the magnetite(rusty bits of old rad) that are very damaging to gas boilers, also it's a helpful dipstick that will inform you when checked of any build up before it becomes a bad problem and damages the boiler meaning you don't have to wait for the boiler to break before you know theirs a problem.


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