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Foundation for shed on wet ground

  • 22-03-2017 1:56pm
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭


    Hi, I will be involving a structural engineer in this , but just wanted a general opinion

    Im looking at a garden shed, ( quite big ) 8m x 3m , in cavity block. ( single story ) MY garden is however very wet with marl 1foot below surface which is essentially waterproof )( the subclass is almost like potters clay ) and if you dig a hole , you get standing water at 1'6"

    The house is built on this , ( but Im not sure whats exactly the foundations of the house are) .


    can I put conventional footings into this ?


Comments

  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,058 ✭✭✭onrail


    Two issues here: soft ground which may cause excessive settlement of a foundation; and water ingress which might be troublesome during construction.

    The soft 'marl' wouldn't be suitable as a foundation stratum - but do you know what the material is like deeper than 1'6"? My inkling is that you've possibly hit a granular water-bearing layer at 1'6". This might be ok to found on.

    Re water ingress: a contractor should be able to deal with this during construction through sump-pumping or similar, depending on the rate of ingress.

    Very hard to know without seeing the site, but you'd need a deeper hole than 1'6" to assess properly. Get an engineer on board, and possibly dig a couple of deeper holes say 2-2.5m with a mini-digger. If the ground is granular or a stiff-clay at this depth, there should be no problem with conventional foundations.

    Disclaimer: this is for information only - no warranty provided


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 3,209 ✭✭✭T-Maxx


    And make sure the finished floor level is at least 150mm higher.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    Very hard to know without seeing the site, but you'd need a deeper hole than 1'6" to assess properly. Get an engineer on board, and possibly dig a couple of deeper holes say 2-2.5m with a mini-digger. If the ground is granular or a stiff-clay at this depth, there should be no problem with conventional foundations.

    high 2.5m , surely the foundations wont got down there to 2 metres ??? or is this just inspection


    The other option is in essence an above ground slab approach , with a integral ring beam under the walls
    Disclaimer: this is for information only - no warranty provided
    its the Internet, disclaimer fully understood !!


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,889 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    This is tough to do without a looksee at the site but one thing for the engineer to consider is that if whatever work you do changes the water table too much, you may cause problems with the house foundations.

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,370 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    BoatMad wrote: »
    high 2.5m , surely the foundations wont got down there to 2 metres ??? or is this just inspection


    The other option is in essence an above ground slab approach , with a integral ring beam under the walls


    its the Internet, disclaimer fully understood !!

    It may be required because of ground conditions and water table level.
    We had to go down 1.2m with a single storey extension just to match the formation level of the existing house.
    This is tough to do without a looksee at the site but one thing for the engineer to consider is that if whatever work you do changes the water table too much, you may cause problems with the house foundations.

    +1
    The effect of this could cause damage to adjoining structures, boundary walls and any other sheds that your neighbours may have in the immediate vicinity.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 1,058 ✭✭✭onrail


    BoatMad wrote: »
    high 2.5m , surely the foundations wont got down there to 2 metres ??? or is this just inspection

    possibly on the high side, but I'm speaking with my consultant geotechnical engineer hat on - Depth of (d + 1.5b) needed to meet EC7 requirements!
    kceire wrote:
    We had to go down 1.2m with a single storey extension just to match the formation level of the existing house.

    Reminds me of another option: If you have the space, and with a narrow trenching bucket, dig an 'inspection pit' to expose the underside of the foundations of the existing dwelling. Take measurements, and repeat. It's unlikely the shed loading will be greater than that of the house


  • Moderators, Society & Culture Moderators Posts: 40,370 Mod ✭✭✭✭Gumbo


    onrail wrote: »
    possibly on the high side, but I'm speaking with my consultant geotechnical engineer hat on - Depth of (d + 1.5b) needed to meet EC7 requirements!



    Reminds me of another option: If you have the space, and with a narrow trenching bucket, dig an 'inspection pit' to expose the underside of the foundations of the existing dwelling. Take measurements, and repeat. It's unlikely the shed loading will be greater than that of the house

    Sorry should have confirmed that we built a full with habitable extension.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,834 ✭✭✭air


    Do you really need a block structure?
    A lightweight timber frame on a raft foundation might make a lot more sense given the site conditions.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    air wrote: »
    Do you really need a block structure?
    A lightweight timber frame on a raft foundation might make a lot more sense given the site conditions.

    considerably more expensive , upwards of 2-3 x ( I know cause we just finished building one in timber frame ) even with some severe cost savings , its still way way more expensive than simple 150mm cavity wall.


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    Reminds me of another option: If you have the space, and with a narrow trenching bucket, dig an 'inspection pit' to expose the underside of the foundations of the existing dwelling. Take measurements, and repeat. It's unlikely the shed loading will be greater than that of the house
    thanks , i will for the next step involve a local professional structural engineer for advice


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 13,702 ✭✭✭✭BoatMad


    The effect of this could cause damage to adjoining structures, boundary walls and any other sheds that your neighbours may have in the immediate vicinity.

    nothing within 60 feet , no other sheds etc , walls are wooden fence and post etc

    but again just seeing the views here , Ill get a professional opinion

    my 2 foot hole has never dried out in the last week at any stage , lovely clear water

    maybe a sunken pond is in my future


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 12,889 ✭✭✭✭Calahonda52


    BoatMad wrote: »
    nothing within 60 feet , no other sheds etc , walls are wooden fence and post etc

    60 feet in this context is akin to a metre in a light year!:)
    BoatMad wrote: »

    but again just seeing the views here , Ill get a professional opinion

    Good idea!

    “I can’t pay my staff or mortgage with instagram likes”.



  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 2,834 ✭✭✭air


    What was the cost breakdown on the raft Boatmad? Was it for a house or a shed?


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