Low P and K best fertilizer options?

educationjpc

What are my fertilizer options for low P and K?

ganmo

is it you want a fertilizer with low p&k or your ground is low in p&k?

educationjpc

Ganmo, the ground is low in p&k.

leg wax

going with 13/6/20/4 myself on silage ground

Bullocks

leg wax wrote: »

going with 13/6/20/4 myself on silage ground

Whats the 4 ? Sulpher ?

White Clover

leg wax wrote: »

going with 13/6/20/4 myself on silage ground

Who blends that leg wax? Never saw it around here

mahoney_j

What's soil ph like ??,no point loading on p&k unless that is right

Base price

educationjpc wrote: »

Ganmo, the ground is low in p&k.

10-10-20 or 0-10-20 if you don't need the nitrogen.
Example of different types of fertilisers: http://www.gouldings.ie/our-products/fertiliser/product-range/

Farrell

I recall someone mentioning If you're index 1 for P & index 4 for K, that you could be better to use 0.16.0, as 10.10.20 would give high K which can result in problems.
Someone maybe able to explain better

Base price

A handy Q&A link to fertiliser use: http://www.fertilizer-assoc.ie/faqs/

farawaygrass

I might be stating the obvious here? I dunno, but Is it a lot easier and quicker to build up k than p?

leg wax

Bullocks wrote: »

Whats the 4 ? Sulpher ?

yes

White Clover wrote: »

Who blends that leg wax? Never saw it around here

will have a look later ,its ifi or grassland.

tismesoitis

A good dose of slurry(2000gal/acre) 18.6.12@ 2.5 bags/acre and a bag of urea

Bass Reeves

Is it the whole farm or just part of it. If you have slurry then use that. I imagine if you have it tested your pH is ok if you have not mentioned it.Is it silage ground as usually it is silage ground that suffers most. As tismesoitis says slurry if you can get it or have it. 10.10.20 after that as much as possible throughout the year if it is grazing ground. But it is expensive it will be about 370/ ton at a guess as I have not priced it in ages. 3+ bags(150+ kgs)to the acre this year and see where it goes on grazing ground. If it is silage ground you would want to be giving it 4 bags 0-7-30/ acre and 18-6-12 after cutting two bags after cutting and one after grazing.

visatorro

Any advice?

TPF2012

visatorro wrote:

Any advice?

That is just showing off. :-)

larthehar

visatorro wrote: »

Any advice?

Restrict use of chemical P and K fert, use dung instead.. the organic matter will bring down the pH and supply p and k..
Use sulpha CAN instead of CAN
Treat for manganese if you are sowing crops, with grass i wouldn't bother..

visatorro

larthehar wrote: »

Restrict use of chemical P and K fert, use dung instead.. the organic matter will bring down the pH and supply p and k..
Use sulpha CAN instead of CAN
Treat for manganese if you are sowing crops, with grass i wouldn't bother..

No need for lime so?

visatorro

TPF2012 wrote: »

That is just showing off. :-)

If you seen the field you'd know it's lacking something

TPF2012

visatorro wrote:

If you seen the field you'd know it's lacking something

If the grass has a yellow tinge it indicates low sulphur. Sulphur would seem to be your only concern from reading that report. Is you soil sandy?

visatorro

TPF2012 wrote: »

If the grass has a yellow tinge it indicates low sulphur. Sulphur would seem to be your only concern from reading that report. Is you soil sandy?

It's yellow alright, sandy but half the field is full of springs so can get very wet.

dw2016

Anyone have any experience of nitrofert compound fert? Seems to be prilled working out a little cheaper

ganmo

visatorro wrote: »

No need for lime so?

your ph is the wrong side for needing lime.

what makes you think it needs something?

Bass Reeves

visatorro wrote: »

Any advice?

PH isok your K is ok and P is is high but I prefer it to be high. P is very important for grass growth. You have two issue's sulpher is low so you need to spread sulpher based fertlizer, mainly sulpha CAN and sulpha 18-6-12. However a big issue may be you are very low in sodium this may mean you have poor grass palatibility.

I do not know if you can spread salt directly onto grassland. Goulding have a product called sweetgrass it is 2% sulphur, 5% sodium and 23% N however it has 1.2% magnesiun and you are high in Magnesium. I talk to a teagasc advisor or ring a fertlizer supplier such as gouldings.

MeTheMan

What did you do to get that print out? Did you send off soil samples or did the department man test it?

pedigree 6

Bass Reeves wrote: »

PH isok your K is ok and P is is high but I prefer it to be high. P is very important for grass growth. You have two issue's sulpher is low so you need to spread sulpher based fertlizer, mainly sulpha CAN and sulpha 18-6-12. However a big issue may be you are very low in sodium this may mean you have poor grass palatibility.

I do not know if you can spread salt directly onto grassland. Goulding have a product called sweetgrass it is 2% sulphur, 5% sodium and 23% N however it has 1.2% magnesiun and you are high in Magnesium. I talk to a teagasc advisor or ring a fertlizer supplier such as gouldings.

If he spreads more sodium (salt) it will rise the pH even more making the problem worse. So.....??

Visatorro what soil type would you
describe it as?

Edit: just to say you think it's lacking something.
The grass plant roots could be lacking air.
I'm saying this as you say the field has springs and possibly waterlogged and then suffers from compaction from machinery as a result and thus your observation that it's not doing as well as it should? ?
A run with an aerator would put a bit of air back in the soil and oxidize some of that iron.

larthehar

I definitely think it is a lack of organic matter.. sulpha CAN for the summer and blacken with dung in the fall... this will lower the pH a bit.. earth worms play an important roll in the soil structure and this will improve drainage too.. for the springs the only thing you can do is drainage..
If it is suffering from serious compaction you may need to mole plough..

TPF2012

larthehar wrote:

I definitely think it is a lack of organic matter.. sulpha CAN for the summer and blacken with dung in the fall... this will lower the pH a bit.. earth worms play an important roll in the soil structure and this will improve drainage too.. for the springs the only thing you can do is drainage.. If it is suffering from serious compaction you may need to mole plough..

visatorro wrote:

It's yellow alright, sandy but half the field is full of springs so can get very wet.

I think organic matter is your best bet to raise sulphur in your soil type. Sulphur is easily leached from sandy soils with limited benefit from sulphur found in chemical fertilisers. Organic matter will have more readily available sulphur and less prone to leaching.

Buford T. Justice XIX

dw2016 wrote: »

Anyone have any experience of nitrofert compound fert? Seems to be prilled working out a little cheaper

There isn't much demand for prilled fertilizers in ROI, farmers don't like the narrower spread pattern but cheaper is always a bit attractive too.

pedigree 6

TPF2012 wrote: »

I think organic matter is your best bet to raise sulphur in your soil type. Sulphur is easily leached from sandy soils with limited benefit from sulphur found in chemical fertilisers. Organic matter will have more readily available sulphur and less prone to leaching.

Check out the C.E.C though.

bogman_bass

educationjpc wrote: »

What are my fertilizer options for low P and K?

A lot of good advice on how to raise P&K but do you have the stock to eat extra grass?

Artificial P&K aren't cheap and if you can't concert the extra grass into beef, lamb or milk than it can be A very expensive exercise

DirtyDiesels

visatorro wrote: »

Any advice?

where did you get it tested?

visatorro

DirtyDiesels wrote: »

where did you get it tested?

Glanbia, afaik it went to England.

99nsr125

Ammonium Sulphate is your answer

http://www.yara.co.uk/crop-nutrition/fertiliser/nitrate/01cs-yarabela-sulfan/