EGR blanking plate

tcawley29

Hi All,

Wondering do I have to clean an egr valve before I fit a blanking plate or will it be grand as is.

2010 Kia C'eed 1.6 crdi 115bhp
345000km

tcawley29

bump

case_sensitive

A blanking plate means the entrance to the valve will be either closed or partly closed, so it makes little difference if it's clogged up.
A full blanking plate (with no hole in it) will trigger the Engine Management light, so that'll need to be disabled. MFK Autos in Westmeath did mine.

A blanking plate with one or more holes in it will let enough filthy air back in your intake to trick the sensors into thinking it's doing what it's supposed to, won't need the MIL eliminator fix. But you also won't see as much benefit in the intake, my turbo spun up much faster after I did that.

In my case, I replaced the intake manifold with one whose swirl flaps had been removed and TIG-welded over, a common issue with my car.

The issue with having an EGR open is that filthy particulates will be in your intake manifold. You should, if know how, strip it, and blast it with carb cleaner or brake cleaner, disposing of the yuck responsibly.

case_sensitive

tcawley29 wrote: »

2010 Kia C'eed 1.6 crdi 115bhp
345000km

wah? 53k a year for 6+ years? the poor yolk... My Alfa would have to be coming up for its 9th timing belt replacement at that rate.

Wheelnut

If you clean the EGR valve you may not need the blanking plate!

With the mileage that's on that car it's probably due a clean anyway.

tcawley29

Thanks for the replies folks.
Tried removing it yesterday for a look but looks like some genius has had a go already.
Bolts stripped on the egr cooler so making it difficult to remove.
No room to remove egr bolts from cooler with cooler still fitted to manifold.
No room to remove bolt on left hand side of egr off inlet pipe.
Looks like I'll pass to book back to the company mechanic and insist its done this time.
At this mileage I assume any of the treatments to clean an egr without removing will not work.
To be honest I'd say its never been cleaned since kia fitted it.

If anyone has any better suggestions belt ahead. The blanking plate is a solid one also.

I did unplug the egr solenoid and drove for 120k.
It made an improvement in acceleration alright but did not get an egr light or hidden code when I scanned it.

tcawley29

Another interesting fact, if I disconnect the egr, maf and map sensor the engine mil does not come on and no fault codes are stored either.
Any ideas what this could be?.
It does go into limp mode without the maf and map connected

case_sensitive

tcawley29 wrote: »

Thanks for the replies folks.
Tried removing it yesterday for a look but looks like some genius has had a go already.
Bolts stripped on the egr cooler so making it difficult to remove.
No room to remove egr bolts from cooler with cooler still fitted to manifold.
No room to remove bolt on left hand side of egr off inlet pipe.
Looks like I'll pass to book back to the company mechanic and insist its done this time.
At this mileage I assume any of the treatments to clean an egr without removing will not work.
To be honest I'd say its never been cleaned since kia fitted it.

If anyone has any better suggestions belt ahead. The blanking plate is a solid one also.

I did unplug the egr solenoid and drove for 120k.
It made an improvement in acceleration alright but did not get an egr light or hidden code when I scanned it.

It's possible that the software part is either already done (by whoever butcher the bolts), or not necessary on your car.
The main benefit in driveability will come when the none of the exhaust is diverted down to your EGR, instead going either to the turbo, spinning it up, or out the back, decreasing pressure.

Screw extractor kits are pretty cheap, I've bought a couple over the years, no set was more than about €20. Obviously, you'll need a selection of appropriate M5/M6/M8 machine bolts to replace them with, because you bin them when you get them out.

case_sensitive

tcawley29 wrote: »

Another interesting fact, if I disconnect the egr, maf and map sensor the engine mil does not come on and no fault codes are stored either.
Any ideas what this could be?.
It does go into limp mode without the maf and map connected

So limp home doesn't trigger a MIL? Either a fault or possibly a ham-handed attempt at disabling the MIL for EGR-derived errors has turned it off altogether.

I'd definitely expect lights and limp-home without the MAF, and MAP on a turbo'd car. Try unplugging something else that should trigger the MIL, like the post-cat O2 sensor (lambda). It ought to drive, but it won't be able to tell if the cat is working, or may simply report that it's missing.
Unplug the sensor rather than remove the lambda sensor though.

tcawley29

case_sensitive wrote: »

So limp home doesn't trigger a MIL? Either a fault or possibly a ham-handed attempt at disabling the MIL for EGR-derived errors has turned it off altogether.

I'd definitely expect lights and limp-home without the MAF, and MAP on a turbo'd car. Try unplugging something else that should trigger the MIL, like the post-cat O2 sensor (lambda). It ought to drive, but it won't be able to tell if the cat is working, or may simply report that it's missing.
Unplug the sensor rather than remove the lambda sensor though.

Hi case sensitive, thanks for the reply. could you tell me where roughly I'd find this sensor or an example of what I'm looking for. Sorry notgreat on this area myself.

Thanks

Tommy