New Cattle Crush

the quiet fella

Hi All,

looking to install a new cattle crush and looking for advice.

Basically a set up to suit a part time farmer with small numbers - about 20 sucklers. Selling weanlings at approx 9-12 months.

Ideally looking for ideas that will help and aid a one person job. Budget would be fairly tight and would aim to do all work myself.

What width, height length headgate etc would you recommend.

the location i have picked out would require a new wall to be constructed along one side which i plan to use as part of a shed/house in the future and would be restricked to approx 20-25ft in length. Would this hold many cows? would i be better off closer to the 20ft and pack them in or 25 and there may be too much play?

Looking at cashel website i could get post with holes drilled for approx 50mm horizontal pipes. should i go with 3 or 4 vertical bars? also looking at a semi auto gate similar to the cashel website - any opinions?

i see i could get panels to fix to upright but i dont think my budget would streach to that. Anyone any idea of price on these panels

Anyone be kind enough to throw up a few pictures of their set up so i could get a few ideas

any thing else i should be wary off

TIA

dunlopwellies

the quiet fella wrote: »

Hi All,

looking to install a new cattle crush and looking for advice.

Basically a set up to suit a part time farmer with small numbers - about 20 sucklers. Selling weanlings at approx 9-12 months.

Ideally looking for ideas that will help and aid a one person job. Budget would be fairly tight and would aim to do all work myself.

What width, height length headgate etc would you recommend.

the location i have picked out would require a new wall to be constructed along one side which i plan to use as part of a shed/house in the future and would be restricked to approx 20-25ft in length. Would this hold many cows? would i be better off closer to the 20ft and pack them in or 25 and there may be too much play?

Looking at cashel website i could get post with holes drilled for approx 50mm horizontal pipes. should i go with 3 or 4 vertical bars? also looking at a semi auto gate similar to the cashel website - any opinions?

i see i could get panels to fix to upright but i dont think my budget would streach to that. Anyone any idea of price on these panels

Anyone be kind enough to throw up a few pictures of their set up so i could get a few ideas

any thing else i should be wary off

TIA

You can buy 80x80x3 galvanised box section in 6m lengths. Cut up can make 3 or 4 uprights depending on the length you need.
Can also buy 90x90x4 box plain cut this into sleeves to concrete into ground and concrete them in about 450mm long then the 80mm box slides down into this there you have removable crush stansions. Alternatively concrete in the 80mm box directly.
A 52mm diameter hole saw and good drill cordless or otherwise and bore the stansions for the horizontal bars which will be inch an a half medium agri or a 48mm OD with 3.2 wall.
That has got to be the cheapest way to do it have two doneclike this.
Have a neugent fully automatic sculling gate absolute disaster would never recommend these unless the crush is about 100m long and the madest of cattle to lock it.
I really like the look of the Morris Gate they are the bees knees but are about 800 plus vat I think.
Teemore engineering are reps for that gate.
So that's all.

the quiet fella

How would you fix the uprights to the sleeves? is there not a danger i an animal put their head through the bars they would lift the whole lot

Zr105

the quiet fella wrote: »

Hi All,

looking to install a new cattle crush and looking for advice.

Basically a set up to suit a part time farmer with small numbers - about 20 sucklers. Selling weanlings at approx 9-12 months.

Ideally looking for ideas that will help and aid a one person job. Budget would be fairly tight and would aim to do all work myself.

What width, height length headgate etc would you recommend.

the location i have picked out would require a new wall to be constructed along one side which i plan to use as part of a shed/house in the future and would be restricked to approx 20-25ft in length. Would this hold many cows? would i be better off closer to the 20ft and pack them in or 25 and there may be too much play?

Looking at cashel website i could get post with holes drilled for approx 50mm horizontal pipes. should i go with 3 or 4 vertical bars? also looking at a semi auto gate similar to the cashel website - any opinions?

i see i could get panels to fix to upright but i dont think my budget would streach to that. Anyone any idea of price on these panels

Anyone be kind enough to throw up a few pictures of their set up so i could get a few ideas

any thing else i should be wary off

TIA

The panels are around €100 a piece going by this link so might be out side your budget.

http://www.odonovaneng.ie/product-category/agriculture/cattle/crush-accessories/

But there's nothing saying you can't make up your own either, galv steel might look pretty but well painted ordinary steel will last fairly long too, although the idea above of buying the galved box does sound good to me!

What I would say is try at least have the first bit before the head gate that it can be opened in case an animal goes down.

Which direction is the crush going to be heading in? If you can get it so that the animals right side is against the wall it could be worth spending a little more on the side gate at the front so that you could use it to do a cesearian if it ever has to happen. Also it's more money but if you castrate your bull calves in the crush it's well worth putting an access gate in rather than having to climb in and out over the side.

Zr105

Just saw these and they may be useful for cheap uprights!
https://www.donedeal.ie/view/14701707
Galvanised Steel poles

I said

Zr105 wrote: »

Just saw these and they may be useful for cheap uprights!
https://www.donedeal.ie/view/14701707
Galvanised Steel poles

Yeah do the job alright

patsy_mccabe

Are 4mm walls a bit light? Keep the crush simple. Have the horizontal pipes sliding in the uprights so that they can be pulled back completely in an emergency. No need for fancy panels. Just use a small bolt at the top to hold the pipes in place. I think it is a good idea to have the pipes on both sides of the crush for at least 10ft at the top of the crush. That way you can get at both sides of an animal to trim hooves, give injections etc. Get an anti-backing bar too. No need for a fancy criush gate when you have that.
If it was me, I'd get railway girders for the uprights. Hard to get now but last a lifetime.

dunlopwellies

the quiet fella wrote: »

How would you fix the uprights to the sleeves? is there not a danger i an animal put their head through the bars they would lift the whole lot

Haven't fixed them.
The bars on both sids is a good idea too.

foxy farmer

Saw this recently in a yard not too far from me. Whole thing can be assembled and dismantled in an hour by 1 man. Drilling the pipes and getting holes to line up would be a big part of it. 4" box in concrete. 3" pipes for uprights and 2" pipe for horizontal runs. I'd use a smaller pipe on bottom run for fear of weakening uprights and they bend out when the pressure comes on.

MfMan

Bump.

Anyone know of reputable contractors capable of building (and maybe designing) a new cattle crush in Galway (south Mayo) area? Might soon bite the bullet on this...

rushvalley

MfMan wrote: »

Bump.

Anyone know of reputable contractors capable of building (and maybe designing) a new cattle crush in Galway (south Mayo) area? Might soon bite the bullet on this...

Bosteel in loughrea might be able to sort you out. Have a calving gate from them and quiet Happy with it.

KatyMac

I got end gates from Arivo and found them awful light. First escape attempt buckled (would you call it) the hinges. Had to get lad with welder to put in strengthening supports. Maybe it my imagination but round bars seem to be stronger than square.

charolais0153

KatyMac wrote: »

I got end gates from Arivo and found them awful light. First escape attempt buckled (would you call it) the hinges. Had to get lad with welder to put in strengthening supports. Maybe it my imagination but round bars seem to be stronger than square.

Same thing happened us. A cow just backed back and buckled the gate. Looking back we should if complained

bogman_bass

I think rear gates on a crush are a waste. I think a bar is far better

Try and have the gate hinge of the end of the crush so you can funnel and animal in easily. Make the job easier and safer

Lady Haywire

bogman_bass wrote: »

Try and have the gate hinge of the end of the crush so you can funnel and animal in easily. Make the job easier and safer

Totally agree with this, our crush has an end gate which opens against another gate. Means we can swing the gate around, moving the animals towards the crush entrance safely and the end gate closes along with it.

Our crush is a custom made jobbie though, only thing that was bought direct was the headlock gate, find some of those gates/bars from larger, more commercial suppliers can be a bit hit & miss.

Sami23

dunlopwellies wrote: »

You can buy 80x80x3 galvanised box section in 6m lengths. Cut up can make 3 or 4 uprights depending on the length you need.
Can also buy 90x90x4 box plain cut this into sleeves to concrete into ground and concrete them in about 450mm long then the 80mm box slides down into this there you have removable crush stansions. Alternatively concrete in the 80mm box directly.
A 52mm diameter hole saw and good drill cordless or otherwise and bore the stansions for the horizontal bars which will be inch an a half medium agri or a 48mm OD with 3.2 wall.
That has got to be the cheapest way to do it have two done like this.

Digging up this old thread as I am hoping to relocate my crush early next year and would appreciate some advice please.
Basically the crush is now on the outside of the shed with a door that opens out used to let them out to it but my problem arises when the first one or two stall going up the crush and I can't get near them to drive them on as I'm in the shed and may have to let all back in and try again which ends up very time consuming as I'm usually on my own at it.
Anyway I'm hoping to extend out the shed over where the crush is now and relocate it to the 'new' back wall where I will have full access to it as all will be inside the shed.
Like suggested above have many people put sockets into the ground so the crush can be dismantled and if doing that like someone said how would you fix it to prevent an animal lifting the whole lot up and bursting out on top of you ?
It is worth having it that it can be dismantled at all ?
Another thing I'd like opinions on is - is it absolutely necessary to have a step outside the crush for dosing etc. as it's going to be inside the shed now the extra floor space would be great to have and not have to put a step in or would the other option of leaving the floor lower in the crush work as a step. I just think this could be awkward if you had to say milk out a cow with mastitas.
Crush will only be used for about 15 suckler cows and stores up to 18 months.
Farming part time and just want to make things as safe and efficient as I can.
Any advice or even pictures of any crushes inside sheds would be great.
Thanks

bogman_bass

I help my vet out with a few big tests every month so worked with a fair few crushes.

3 things:
A decent head gate is worth the money

Have enough points along the crush to slide in a bar

Most important have the pen angle intowads the crus so it makes a funnel. Infinitely easier to load

hopeso

bogman_bass wrote: »

I help my vet out with a few big tests every month so worked with a fair few crushes.

3 things:
A decent head gate is worth the money

Have enough points along the crush to slide in a bar

Most important have the pen angle intowads the crus so it makes a funnel. Infinitely easier to load

I think the bars that you slide in are becoming a thing of the past. There were many people hurt with them when an animal reversed back into it before it was secured. An anti backing bar that you slide up to the desired position is the way forward.

Water John

I see a vet writing against the spring loaded backing gate. His argument was that any device shouldn't train animals to push open a barrier.

cacs

Just building a new pen and crush. Going with six foot high walls two gates to split the cattle into three so I always can work with the animal at the head gate with nothing around me. A manual head lock gate and I and I am putting a hinged gate behind the the animal that is caught in the head gate. It will allow me to AI or castrate the the animal in the crush while stopping the second coming forward on me. I have also got a head scoop. It’s going to cost a few pound. But I want to beable to work by myself as safe as possible

tancoman

Lads, as a matter of interest, what size of a holding pen (area) would be required to hold 20 bullocks (400 - 500kg) before they go into the crush. Thanks

charolais0153

tancoman wrote: »

Lads, as a matter of interest, what size of a holding pen (area) would be required to hold 20 bullocks (400 - 500kg) before they go into the crush. Thanks

400sqft?

Muckit

charolais0153 wrote: »

400sqft?

Want it at least that anyways. Id be saying 500+. If they too packed you'd never get them moving if they stuck their noses into a corner!!

Muckit

cathal irwin wrote: »

Just building a new pen and crush. Going with six foot high walls two gates to split the cattle into three so I always can work with the animal at the head gate with nothing around me. A manual head lock gate and I and I am putting a hinged gate behind the the animal that is caught in the head gate. It will allow me to AI or castrate the the animal in the crush while stopping the second coming forward on me. I have also got a head scoop. It’s going to cost a few pound. But I want to beable to work by myself as safe as possible

My advice for what it's worth is to go out the yard and take a few measurements. Then come in to the table and mock it up on paper TO SCALE. Rob a compass and set sq off someone! Or perhaps you a whiz at that sort stuff on computer? I personally like pencil and paper! Do up your design. Then come away fro it. I guarantee ull go back the 2nd night and draw different or make changes! But they are cheap changes!!
You are right it's going to be dear but l wouldn't go designing rigidly to a budget or have it as my ultimate criteria. At the end of this youll either have a dear **** job or a dear good job! Either way its going to be dear!! But It's money wasted IMO if it doesn't allow you to do what u want it to do with cattle in a safe and efficient manner.
This is a capital expense so you'll be writing off over 7years. And remember you can claim back the VAT on materials and hired labour associated with build.
One design thing, as regards your divisions, use 2 gates instead of one to divide the space. So if u thinking 2 divisions (3 spaces) you need 4 gates instead of 2. Why? So to easily move cattle around the gate and into next section. One big gate as a division is dangerous. It had a big swing and has to be opened too much to get cattle around. A long gate also had to be made of stronger steel or it will bend easily under weight of penned cattle pushing against it.
Have smallest gate no more than 7' or so. Biggest gate (off shelf) no more than 13', anymore and l find cattle will bend it. It's cheaper to try use HD gates off the shelf than to get custom made and galvanised. Although if it has to be done so be it. Galvanising will cost the same as what the gate will cost to make roughly.

Sami23

Muckit wrote: »

My advice for what it's worth is to go out the yard and take a few measurements. Then come in to the table and mock it up on paper TO SCALE. Rob a compass and set sq off someone! Or perhaps you a whiz at that sort stuff on computer? I personally like pencil and paper! Do up your design. Then come away fro it. I guarantee ull go back the 2nd night and draw different or make changes! But they are cheap changes!!
You are right it's going to be dear but l wouldn't go designing rigidly to a budget or have it as my ultimate criteria. At the end of this youll either have a dear **** job or a dear good job! Either way its going to be dear!! But It's money wasted IMO if it doesn't allow you to do what u want it to do with cattle in a safe and efficient manner.
This is a capital expense so you'll be writing off over 7years. And remember you can claim back the VAT on materials and hired labour associated with build.
One design thing, as regards your divisions, use 2 gates instead of one to divide the space. So if u thinking 2 divisions (3 spaces) you need 4 gates instead of 2. Why? So to easily move cattle around the gate and into next section. One big gate as a division is dangerous. It had a big swing and has to be opened too much to get cattle around. A long gate also had to be made of stronger steel or it will bend easily under weight of penned cattle pushing against it.
Have smallest gate no more than 7' or so. Biggest gate (off shelf) no more than 13', anymore and l find cattle will bend it. It's cheaper to try use HD gates off the shelf than to get custom made and galvanised. Although if it has to be done so be it. Galvanising will cost the same as what the gate will cost to make roughly.

Some good advice there Muckit.
What would be your thoughts on the need for a step outside the crush or the option of having the crush lowered to create a step ?

ITFarmer

Try doing a Google search such as 'cattle pen design'. Then click/touch the google image button.

Reggie.

Sami23 wrote: »

Some good advice there Muckit.
What would be your thoughts on the need for a step outside the crush or the option of having the crush lowered to create a step ?

For what a foot bath?

Water John

Depends on how tall you are Reggie.

Sami23

Reggie. wrote: »

For what a foot bath?

No just to have a better reach when dosing etc.

Reggie.

Sami23 wrote: »

No just to have a better reach when dosing etc.

We just laid a row of 9in cavities on the outside to step up on to if required. Still plenty of room to reach under an animal if needed.

Muckit

Sami23 wrote: »

Some good advice there Muckit.
What would be your thoughts on the need for a step outside the crush or the option of having the crush lowered to create a step ?

Oh that's a given. Very necessary. Like everything in life, the higher up you, are the more power u have!! I think mine is roughly 12-14"

Good loser

Reggie. wrote: »

We just laid a row of 9in cavities on the outside to step up on to if required. Still plenty of room to reach under an animal if needed.

I have that for years - good idea. Also if short a few blocks they can be robbed, even temporarily.
Four other things
- gate to make funnel at entry point
- short closing gate at rear with sloped handle.
- first section (4/5 foot) to hang at head gate and close into first pillar; this can be opened into crush to release stock

- if possible, if right handed, have wall on left (facing to front) so that animals are caught with left hand and syringe is held in right

bogman_bass

You will never have the right night for.a step. The higher you go the more power you have but the harder it is to catch an animal

Hill Bill

Sami23 wrote: »

Digging up this old thread as I am hoping to relocate my crush early next year and would appreciate some advice please.
Basically the crush is now on the outside of the shed with a door that opens out used to let them out to it but my problem arises when the first one or two stall going up the crush and I can't get near them to drive them on as I'm in the shed and may have to let all back in and try again which ends up very time consuming as I'm usually on my own at it.
Anyway I'm hoping to extend out the shed over where the crush is now and relocate it to the 'new' back wall where I will have full access to it as all will be inside the shed.
Like suggested above have many people put sockets into the ground so the crush can be dismantled and if doing that like someone said how would you fix it to prevent an animal lifting the whole lot up and bursting out on top of you ?
It is worth having it that it can be dismantled at all ?
Another thing I'd like opinions on is - is it absolutely necessary to have a step outside the crush for dosing etc. as it's going to be inside the shed now the extra floor space would be great to have and not have to put a step in or would the other option of leaving the floor lower in the crush work as a step. I just think this could be awkward if you had to say milk out a cow with mastitas.
Crush will only be used for about 15 suckler cows and stores up to 18 months.
Farming part time and just want to make things as safe and efficient as I can.
Any advice or even pictures of any crushes inside sheds would be great.
Thanks

Putting in a new crush here & on an out farm, I was hoping to put in the sockets & use the same crush for both places but was advised against it, as crush would be very noisy & not as strong.

Going to set the posts in concrete in both locations & move crush panels, headgate when needed. If it turns out to be too much hassle, I can buy the second set of panels, headgate when funds allow.


On your problem of not being able to load the crush from the shed- cattle naturally want to return the direction that they came if they meet a dead end, so they start backing up.
If you could have a holding pen where your headgate is currently situated, (bypassing the crush on the way) & swap the headgate to the shed side of the crush, I’d wager that you’ll fill the crush a lot easier.

Hope that makes sense, we had the same problem, changed it around as described and no trouble now.

Google Temple Grandin, she has some very practical tips, it’s a lot easier to work with cattle than against them!

Water John

Yes, I've seen that problem with a neighbours crush, when helping with testing, where the cows are having to go the opposite direction to their usual entering the milking parlour. Absolute PITA.