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LED panel light flashing

  • 16-02-2017 4:29am
    #1
    Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭


    I have an LED panel light on my kitchen ceiling which flashes when I turn it on in the mornings and sometimes in the evenings. It only appears to do it at these times so not sure if it's to do with the cooler temperatures or the fact that it would have been off for a longer period of time.

    It is a 600mm square slim fitting similar to these here:

    http://www.ledsets.com/products/600-600mm-Square-LED-Panel-Light-1410031.html

    It is a sealed unit and has been glued to the ceiling rather than screwed so I am reluctant to replace it and risk damaging the ceiling in the process. There is a LED driver connected to it.

    I am just looking for opinions on whether the problems is with the light itself or the driver. The house was built 11 years ago and I'm fairly sure the light has been there since.


Comments

  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Analogue meter/O-scope the driver output?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    Analogue meter/O-scope the driver output?

    I don't have either of those. It would be easier(and cheaper) for me to just get a replacement driver and see if that fixes the problem.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Does your DMM have a bar graph?


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    Does your DMM have a bar graph?

    Unfortunately not.


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    Diagnosis by elimination? Can you power the light from a battery or another DC source? Careful though it may require constant current.


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  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    Diagnosis by elimination? Can you power the light from a battery or another DC source? Careful though it may require constant current.

    The output of the LED driver is 27-40 volts so battery/dc supply isn't really an option especially where the light is. It's also an intermittent fault so it would be difficult to prove that the driver is the problem by connecting it to a battery/dc supply.
    I'm going on holidays on Sunday for a few weeks so I'll worry about it when I get back:)


  • Posts: 5,238 ✭✭✭ [Deleted User]


    I reckon if you string enough PP3s together they'd work for 5 minutes. :P
    I'd use 3 x 12v leady ones though.

    I'd be inclined to say it's the driver too but last time I had the issue (dead flood) turned out to be the LED. Bloody thing was fully potted....probably using a 10mm HSS drill to look for a replaceable fuse was the wrong choice of tool. :rolleyes:

    If I was to go completely out on a limb I'd suspect the electrolytic capacitors in the driver. ...guessing you haven't an ESR meter either?...


  • Registered Users, Registered Users 2 Posts: 5,374 ✭✭✭aido79


    I reckon if you string enough PP3s together they'd work for 5 minutes. :P
    I'd use 3 x 12v leady ones though.

    I'd be inclined to say it's the driver too but last time I had the issue (dead flood) turned out to be the LED. Bloody thing was fully potted....probably using a 10mm HSS drill to look for a replaceable fuse was the wrong choice of tool. :rolleyes:

    If I was to go completely out on a limb I'd suspect the electrolytic capacitors in the driver. ...guessing you haven't an ESR meter either?...

    Getting it to work for 5 minutes would not help since it's intermittent. Nah don't have an ESR meter. I'll just replace the driver and see how it goes.
    I'm in Australia so the less time I have to spend in the attic in Summer the better.... especially since I have a tin roof:)


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