LEYLAND TRACTOR GEARBOX

josihay35x

Hi

Iv an old Leyland 255 tractor, and when i put it in gear, it won't move. Was going fine but just stopped one day.

Gear leaver goes into place, but tractor just won't move!!
Any ideas how to fix?!

orm0nd

remember with the leylands there was a bolt that used to shear , on the clutch coupling,

don't know how to describe it but remember at least 2 it happened to here locally,

if it's that it's an easy enough fix, possibly 2 to 3 hours labour.

josihay35x

orm0nd wrote: »

remember with the leylands there was a bolt that used to shear , on the clutch coupling,

don't know how to describe it but remember at least 2 it happened to here locally,

if it's that it's an easy enough fix, possibly 2 to 3 hours labour.

Thanks for that ormOnd. Any idea how its fixed ?! Where do I start rippin?!

pedigree 6

orm0nd wrote: »

remember with the leylands there was a bolt that used to shear , on the clutch coupling,

don't know how to describe it but remember at least 2 it happened to here locally,

if it's that it's an easy enough fix, possibly 2 to 3 hours labour.

The one thing when I had the Marshall 804 that I liked was that the mechanic didn't have to split the tractor to put in a new clutch.
That's not to say that it lasted any length of time. :rolleyes:

This is seemingly a good forum for Leyland/Nuffield/Marshall owner/mechanics.

http://leyland.conforums.com/index.cgi?board=general&start=0

AnthonyCny

Is their high and low gear stick? Think you can put it into neutral by having it in the middle. Try putting it in high and see if that moves it. You might have accidentally hit the stick

josihay35x

AnthonyCny wrote: »

Is their high and low gear stick? Think you can put it into neutral by having it in the middle. Try putting it in high and see if that moves it. You might have accidentally hit the stick

Thanks for that. But unfortunately its more serious than that!

josihay35x

Is the clutch shear pin inside the clutch release bearing??

Nekarsulm

There is a small coupling between the clutch and the gearbox.

http://www.thenuffieldandleylandtractorclub.co.uk/wp/wp-content/themes/nuffield/images/Part%201%20-%20Double%20Clutch%20Removal.PDF

You would normally approach this job by taking out the big bolt on the tractor mudguard where the door closes to, each side. It's something like a 34mm or thereabouts.
Disconnect the cab at the front below the windscreen. Now you can hinge the entire cab upwards and backwards out of the way.
Get help doing this job, or gently use a front end loader, etc.
Disconnect the steering arm, and unbolt the steering box, complete with dashboard, and leave it sitting up on the tractor seat, out of the way.

josihay35x

Nekarsulm wrote: »

There is a small coupling between the clutch and the gearbox.

http://www.thenuffieldandleylandtractorclub.co.uk/wp/wp-content/themes/nuffield/images/Part%201%20-%20Double%20Clutch%20Removal.PDF

You would normally approach this job by taking out the big bolt on the tractor mudguard where the door closes to, each side. It's something like a 34mm or thereabouts.
Disconnect the cab at the front below the windscreen. Now you can hinge the entire cab upwards and backwards out of the way.
Get help doing this job, or gently use a front end loader, etc.
Disconnect the steering arm, and unbolt the steering box, complete with dashboard, and leave it sitting up on the tractor seat, out of the way.

Thats very helpful, thanks very much for that.. much appreciated.

But do i actually need to take out / dismantle the whole clutch for this? The Pin seems to have sheared a few days back, but the clutch release bearing was making awful noise all along before that, like a bear when changing gears! :eek:

Nekarsulm

It wouldn't be unknown for Leyland finger adjustment rods to stretch, and have the plate take up drive unevenly, but if the clutch seemed to be gripping well, with no slipping, or "pulsing" through the pedal, you could leave it alone.

No need to take off the clutch assembly to replace the release bearing. You dismantle the small housing shown in the link, and work from there.

I have a workshop manual somewhere, I'll dig it out and see if there are any better pictures.

josihay35x

Nekarsulm wrote: »

It wouldn't be unknown for Leyland finger adjustment rods to stretch, and have the plate take up drive unevenly, but if the clutch seemed to be gripping well, with no slipping, or "pulsing" through the pedal, you could leave it alone.

No need to take off the clutch assembly to replace the release bearing. You dismantle the small housing shown in the link, and work from there.

I have a workshop manual somewhere, I'll dig it out and see if there are any better pictures.

That would be great. thanks very much for your help.
NO, the clutch was in bad shape before it stopped completely. worked ok if you were changing gears when driving downhill, but if driving up hill, or with a load , it would make a big "roaring" (like a bear!!) noise when you push down the clutch, and a good bit of gear grinding involved! other than that, no slipping, and gripped well.
What do you recommend i should do to fix this?

Nekarsulm

You won't know till you get in there, but sounds like your clutch release bearing has seized and wore down both itself and the release plate it presses against. Should be plain to be seen when you get the top half of the bell housing cover off(complete with steering box).

josihay35x

Nekarsulm wrote: »

You won't know till you get in there, but sounds like your clutch release bearing has seized and wore down both itself and the release plate it presses against. Should be plain to be seen when you get the top half of the bell housing cover off(complete with steering box).

Ok. Thanks very much again. If you could dig out the manual that would be a great help.

Much appreciated

Nekarsulm

First two photos are from the parts manual.
Second two are from the workshop manual.

The workshop manual directions would be best followed when you are standing in front of the internals, looking at them, I think.

Nekarsulm

This is what you will be looking at...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqrXkVoucyo

patsy_mccabe

Jeez, there's great access there. Could never understand why someone would design a tractor that had to be split in 2 just to change a clutch. All these fancy cabs get in the way big time too.
Are you a mechanic Nek? Think I might have asked you that before.

Nekarsulm

Far from a mechanic, Patsy, tinkerer would be closer!
We had them here when I was growing up, Nuffield's and then Leyland's.
So you would get exposed to working on the parts of them that need fettling.

orm0nd

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Far from a mechanic, Patsy, tinkerer would be closer!
We had them here when I was growing up, Nuffield's and then Leyland's.
So you would get exposed to working on the parts of them that need fettling.

had a 10/60 and 4/65 here , never had leylands, changed to the david browns

josihay35x

Nekarsulm wrote: »

First two photos are from the parts manual.
Second two are from the workshop manual.

The workshop manual directions would be best followed when you are standing in front of the internals, looking at them, I think.

thanks Nek, but for some reason those pictures arent showing up for me here. maybe could you PM them to me ?

patsy_mccabe

Nekarsulm wrote: »

Far from a mechanic, Patsy, tinkerer would be closer!
We had them here when I was growing up, Nuffield's and then Leyland's.
So you would get exposed to working on the parts of them that need fettling.

A bit like myself so.

josihay35x

josihay35x wrote: »

thanks Nek, but for some reason those pictures arent showing up for me here. maybe could you PM them to me ?

There showing up now. Thanks a million nek.