Any non neutral requiring Z-Wave relays out there?

Roen

Hi,

Ultimate goal is to have the driveway light in the lamp post come on at sunset or when myself or the missus are nearing home.

I was looking at getting a Z-wave relay and sticking it in behind the 4 gang switch I have in the hall. However they all need a neutral wired to the the box, and none of my lights have that. The location of the switch would mean it'd be damned hard to run another cable there.

I have Hue bulbs I could use but they just don't chuck enough light out. The 1800 lumen bulb is about the lower limit of what works for the area (curse the inverse square law of illumination). So that rules Hue or Lifx out as they aren't just aren't bright enough.

Not interested in sticking one of those security sensor type lights on either, they're alright for the back of the house but ugly as sin on the front.

The lamp post takes a B22 or E27 with adaptor.

I feel I'm missing some very simple solution.
Anyone got something I haven't thought of?

eddiem74

Fibaro Dimmer2? No neutral required.

Roen

eddiem74 wrote: »

Fibaro Dimmer2? No neutral required.

I think I remember looking at these but the minimum load is 50W as far as I recall. The LED light is about half that. I have something similar in the house abs had to swap out the energy saver for a old filament bulb just to up the load.

ted1

You could just stick in an LED and leave it on 24 7. Cheap to run.

Roen

ted1 wrote: »

You could just stick in an LED and leave it on 24 7. Cheap to run.

About €31 per year. Which is not bad really.
I'd rather not take that approach though. The money does't worry me overmuch but the light shining in to our windows all night would. It'd also never pass the wife acceptance test.
Must be a handy solution out there to this.

Bluefoam

1. Choose a light fitting... non-smart, what every one you like.
2. Terminate the power cable with at a TP Link smart plug
3. Have an Arlo Q camera set up somewhere in the gaff (which can be activated by Geofencing)
4. Use IFTTT to create an action whereby the TP plug activates on an action from the Arlo camera
5. I know... ****ing genius!
6. Wait till you hear my plan for making a bottle of champagne rise out of the sideboard, while the Hue lights display firework and the speakers are knocking out ABBA at full volume
7. No need to thank me... I'm here to help

hesker

If you're willing to wait a bit until they come out.

Aeotec Nano Dimmer

No neutral required

http://aeotec.com/z-wave-light-dimmer-switch

eddiem74

Roen wrote: »

I think I remember looking at these but the minimum load is 50W as far as I recall. The LED light is about half that. I have something similar in the house abs had to swap out the energy saver for a old filament bulb just to up the load.

Fibaro Dimmer2 + Fibaro Dimmer bypass used to maintain load, my electrician always installs both. I have this running 2 Phillips Gu10 leds in our porch and also running a single bayonet energy saving bulb in our utility and another is the bathroom, no issues. Each circuit has its own dimmer2 + bypass. Note: I am use Fibaro HC2 as my controller.

Wossack

Im in a similar situation (2 wire at switch), and am looking at options. From looking at wiring diagrams, and our set up, it looks like we could install the module at the bulb end, rather then the switch end - and make use of the neutral there

other then the issue of space for the module itself in the ceiling fitting, any obvious issues with doing this?

Roen

eddiem74 wrote: »

Fibaro Dimmer2 + Fibaro Dimmer bypass used to maintain load, my electrician always installs both. I have this running 2 Phillips Gu10 leds in our porch and also running a single bayonet energy saving bulb in our utility and another is the bathroom, no issues. Each circuit has its own dimmer2 + bypass. Note: I am use Fibaro HC2 as my controller.

Cheers, I have something like that already that came with a glass touch panel dimmer to enable LEDs to be used with it. I'll have to open the 4 gang swithc to see if there's room for both.

Roen

Wossack wrote: »

Im in a similar situation (2 wire at switch), and am looking at options. From looking at wiring diagrams, and our set up, it looks like we could install the module at the bulb end, rather then the switch end - and make use of the neutral there

other then the issue of space for the module itself in the ceiling fitting, any obvious issues with doing this?

I guess that makes sense. I see a few lads on Vesternet suggesting that using them in this fashion is not an issue. Hadn't thought of doing it that way.

eddiem74

Roen wrote: »

Cheers, I have something like that already that came with a glass touch panel dimmer to enable LEDs to be used with it. I'll have to open the 4 gang swithc to see if there's room for both.

Dimmer2 behind wall switch, bypass in ceiling at light.

For example when the Dimmer2 is added often the lights work however when turned off they stay faintly on or 1 gu10 bulb might remain faintly on out of a few. Electrician usually adds the bypass at that fitting, and then I rerun the calibration for the lights via HC2 with bypass now included, usually works fine after that.

eddiem74

Wossack wrote: »

Im in a similar situation (2 wire at switch), and am looking at options. From looking at wiring diagrams, and our set up, it looks like we could install the module at the bulb end, rather then the switch end - and make use of the neutral there

other then the issue of space for the module itself in the ceiling fitting, any obvious issues with doing this?

Will work, once you have access to all wiring.

I have not done myself to date but have had it suggested to me as an option.

Roen

Feck it, ordered a relay and will wire it to the light fitting rather than the switch.